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Radio / Clock display problem 1998 and up Explorers ( blank / fade / blanks / fades )

How are there no pictures at all..
 



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How are there no pictures at all..

1344463888puppies20trai.jpg
 






Sent my board into the "save my sanity" place, it lasted 2 months and has now died again. For the PITA that removing the radio is I'm just going to install a new aftermarket unit and be done with it. Sure they'll redo it again but don't want to have to pull it and send it back every couple of months.
 






Sent my board into the "save my sanity" place, it lasted 2 months and has now died again. For the PITA that removing the radio is I'm just going to install a new aftermarket unit and be done with it. Sure they'll redo it again but don't want to have to pull it and send it back every couple of months.

Funny, what incompetent person did you allow to "fix" your radio? I had mine done about seven years ago, and it's still going fine.

The proper repair is to replace the display board, not to solder things on the original defective board. The radio is a great unit, besides the original display board.

Replace the board, don't bash the radio.
 






Funny, what incompetent person did you allow to "fix" your radio? I had mine done about seven years ago, and it's still going fine.

The proper repair is to replace the display board, not to solder things on the original defective board. The radio is a great unit, besides the original display board.

Replace the board, don't bash the radio.

I should be asking you! You're right it is a great unit but if I have to chose between a new unit and sending it out for "repair" every so often I'll just by a new one.

So, where did you send yours? Mine went to fixyourradio.com, which had several good reviews on this board.
 






I resoldered every component I could on the boards in two radios and they both have been going strong for what is probably at least 5 years now. Replacement is not necessary IMO, a quality repair is all that is needed.I used a solder sucker syringe, copper solder soaker braid, and some quality solder. I would remove the solder at a joint and then resolder, one by one until I did the whole board. It didn't take all that long to do and was sucessfull.

I am guessing the companies who fix these radios just solder until they start working, but it is only a matter of time until another joint fails.
 






I resoldered every component I could on the boards in two radios and they both have been going strong for what is probably at least 5 years now. Replacement is not necessary IMO, a quality repair is all that is needed.I used a solder sucker syringe, copper solder soaker braid, and some quality solder. I would remove the solder at a joint and then resolder, one by one until I did the whole board. It didn't take all that long to do and was sucessfull.

I am guessing the companies who fix these radios just solder until they start working, but it is only a matter of time until another joint fails.

Eric is right, I'll bet most people and repair shops just re-solder the few obvious joints they see bad, or until they get it working.

If you would be able to re-solder the whole board, and it's not that big, then that would be a high success rate. I keep telling people to find a way to put a new board in it, to avoid the chance of someone missing a joint on the old board.

I sent mine to a Dave Miller, who I think now is retired. He advertised on eBay and only did it part time. He used the deck in his home studio for his work. I wish he still did the work, I'd like him to do one more, plus add the RCA outputs to it like the one before.
 






Re soldered my power board on my 2000 Mounty, works yeah, for a day.

Some of the links to Power board suppliers are dead ends, who makes a quality replacement?
 






I just completed the radio display repair on my 1999 Mazda B3000 (from all I know is identical to a Ranger). I'd like to share a few observations based on my review of internet material on the subject and the experience of doing it. Maybe it will help someone else. I have no assurance that my experiences will apply to all radio and vehicle configurations.

1) I had trouble removing the radio from the panel, even when using the purchased U-wire radio extractors. It appears many have had the same problem. After struggling trying to get it to slide out I took a different direction. I removed the plastic bezel with the radio still attached by just removing two screws and pulling it away from the instrument panel to disengage the 4 clips. With it out the radio's two spring clips can be pushed with a screw driver to remove the radio from the bezel. Looking at how the U-wire remover was meant to operate I could have spent all day trying to remove the radio - lesson learned, just take off the panel.

2) The on-line directions I read did not apply to my radio, a Ford stock am/fm with CD but no cassette. Opening up the metal panels there was no power circuit board to be seen as described in the on-line directions. Apparently even though the various radios look similar on the panel they are different internally. To get at the display circuit board I had to remove the radio's front panel which was done by removing 3 torx screws and pulling the front panel away from the unit. The board looked nothing like the board illustrated on-line. In addition there was no large resistor. I suggest to locate the suspected loose resistors look for the discolored area on the board caused by heat. I found two very small surface mounted resistors at the spot. Even on close inspection I could not see if the soldered ends had become detached. With a very small soldering iron I resoldered both end of both resistors. The end result is that it worked! Lesson learned - there's at least several configurations of radios internally but they seem to have a common problem with those resistors that overheat.

Good luck.
 






Radio display AND overhead console out

I did a swap on the MACH unit about a year ago and everything worked fine until this morning. Now, my radio display is out AND the overhead console display is out. I am thinking that this is not just related to the radio display, but I could be wrong.
Any suggestions anybody?
Thanks!
Chef Duane
 






After a certain age the capacitors inside will begin to leak and/or create problems. These trucks may not be quite old enough to experience that yet, but they are getting close. I have a Mark VII and every single overhead console, radio, EATC, and message center in those is having problems or will very very soon. Those are 84-92 vehicles, so plan for those big problems in the next 5-10 years. There is a person who specializes in the Mark VII devices, but each car and each device is different. Keep an eye out for people who can do that kind of work.
 






Make sure to check the resistance of the large one and two watt resistors. On mine the resistance was too low on two of them (too little resistance allows too much current flow = too much heat). I've ordered all new ones and plan to leave the leads long so the resistors will stand well above the board, maybe that will keep some of the heat away from the other pieces. Also watch that you solder the correct side of the board, there are circuit traces on both sides.
 












Trever (or Mike) can be contacted at sayko4@aol.com

Quote: The repair cost is $45.00 plus shipping (you choose waht method).
Turn around is 1 to 2 days max.
Pack the radio well especially the face plate and volume knob areas...don't let radio bounce around.
I will repair the radio, invoice thru paypal (if you like).
check, m.o., or paypal is fine.
I warrant the display repair for as long as you own the radio. End Quote.
 






Trever (or Mike) can be contacted at sayko4@aol.com

Quote: The repair cost is $45.00 plus shipping (you choose waht method).
Turn around is 1 to 2 days max.
Pack the radio well especially the face plate and volume knob areas...don't let radio bounce around.
I will repair the radio, invoice thru paypal (if you like).
check, m.o., or paypal is fine.
I warrant the display repair for as long as you own the radio. End Quote.

where is he located
 






where is he located

he's in South Carolina.

Mike Harrington
304 Hartin Blvd.
Summerville,SC 29483

I believe you need to pay the return shipping and insurance is up to you.
 






Trever (or Mike) can be contacted at sayko4@aol.com



"The repair cost is $45.00 plus shipping (you choose waht method).
Turn around is 1 to 2 days max.
Pack the radio well especially the face plate and volume knob areas...don't let radio bounce around.
I will repair the radio, invoice thru paypal (if you like).
check, m.o., or paypal is fine.
I warrant the display repair for as long as you own the radio. "


Thanks for that info.
 






Trever (or Mike) can be contacted at sayko4@aol.com



"The repair cost is $45.00 plus shipping (you choose waht method).
Turn around is 1 to 2 days max.
Pack the radio well especially the face plate and volume knob areas...don't let radio bounce around.
I will repair the radio, invoice thru paypal (if you like).
check, m.o., or paypal is fine.
I warrant the display repair for as long as you own the radio. "


Thanks for that info.
 






he's in South Carolina.

Mike Harrington
304 Hartin Blvd.
Summerville,SC 29483

I believe you need to pay the return shipping and insurance is up to you.

thanks it worked when i hit rumble strips for about 2 minutes what is the rds in these radios
 



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thanks it worked when i hit rumble strips for about 2 minutes what is the rds in these radios

i don't know what the letters (rds) stand for (radio display ???), but when pushed the radio will display information about the station you're listening to, like ROCK, NEWS, JAZZ. I think you also need to press the "rds" button to set the clock. it displays HOURS then MINUTES and you hit the "select" button to change the time. your owner's manual should have all the info on it. I have one vehicle that the display works intermittently on, and one that's been repaired. the problem has to do with excess heat, cracked solder joints and capacitors inside the radio. super common problem. I have the "audiophile" systems in my trucks (with the steering wheel mounted controls, 6-disc CD changer, amp and subwoofer). I think they sound great, but i'm not a audiophile so...
 






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