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RCD Lift FAQ

inh

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I'm making this to both be of service to the forum (I know RCD questions come up a lot) and to serve as a reference to anyone that is doing this install, to give them an idea of the other small things they may need, and the options available to them. If there is anything I missed please let me know and I will add/edit it :)


Will it really fit my Explorer?

Yes, it is 100% bolt on for the front. The rear is a lot different however, so you need to find an alternate way of lifting it. Ford used the same front suspension in the 95-01 Explorers in the 98-02 Rangers.

Where can I purchase it?

www.4wheelonline.com
www.jackit.com
www.performancelifts.com
www.performancecenter.com

How much lift will I get?

Most people see anywhere from five to six inches. The front shocks have threaded bodies so you can adjust the height. With the stock springs on the shocks, it may begin to sag after a while, down to about four or five inches. Some people run stiffer springs in the front to combat this, and others run VERY stiff springs in the front to try and get upwards of six inches lift, at the cost of ride quality.

What size tires will this let me run?

You can fit 33's with no trimming, or 35's with minor trimming.

Does it lift the rear as well?

No, you will need to do one of the procedures listed below.

What can I do to life the rear?

-You can get a set of leaf springs and shackles form an F150, these bolt right up. You may or may not need to use an add-a-leaf to get a bit more height for it to be where you want.

-You can have a company like Deaver (www.deaverspring.com) to make you a custom leaf pack.

-Convert to spring-over-axle. This will net you about a 6 inch lift in the rear with stock springs, but requires some cutting/welding.

Will I need longer drive shafts?

While it is possible that you may not NEED longer drive shafts, it is definitely recommended. Both shafts will be at a steeper angle, and if you have the CV style front shaft, it is very likely to fail. Superlift makes a replacement front shaft, part number 9636 to fix this. For the rear, some people use a spacer, some have a shop lengthen and balance their stock shaft, and some get a completely new one made by a custom shop. What route you choose is entirely up to you. Others get away fine without lengthening anything, however once again this is NOT recommended.

You can order a drive shaft spacer just in case, but the correct thing to do is measure once you have the lift on and everything almost finalized to see exactly how much longer your drives haft needs to be.

What else do I need to get besides the kit from RCD?

-Front and rear drive shafts (possible)


For rear spring-over-axle conversion:
-New spring perches. Get some 7” long ones made for a 3 ¼ inch tube from http://www.mountainoffroad.com

What does RCD stand for?

RCD = Race Car Dynamics
www.racecardynamics.com

I can't find the lift on RCD's website, does it really exist?

Yes, it's actual page is here, but the spec sheet page has more information.
 


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beenwrong2002

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so mr.inh please tell us, what does RCD stand for ;)
 












beenwrong2002

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dkchrist

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As for the rear driveshaft no big deal as it should be long enough but pinion angle will need to be shimmed (included for rangers but not sure if it would work for spring under Ex. Front can be interesting. Have heard of problems with Superlift D-shaft. Trailmaster also makes a replacement front shaft only more money. An adapter to a four bolt double cardan shaft can be ordered from Tom Woods or made by a local machine shop. Then a Gen 1 Ex or Gen 2 Ranger shaft is shortened and given a four bolt flange check out driveshaft super store for B2 Conversion yoke.
 




inh

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As for the rear driveshaft no big deal as it should be long enough but pinion angle will need to be shimmed (included for rangers but not sure if it would work for spring under Ex. Front can be interesting. Have heard of problems with Superlift D-shaft. Trailmaster also makes a replacement front shaft only more money. An adapter to a four bolt double cardan shaft can be ordered from Tom Woods or made by a local machine shop. Then a Gen 1 Ex or Gen 2 Ranger shaft is shortened and given a four bolt flange check out driveshaft super store for B2 Conversion yoke.

I remember reading in someone's thread that while accelerating over a bump, or something of the sort, their rear drive shaft popped out, thats why I put that in the FAQ. Better safe than sorry ;)
I wonder how many degrees the shims adjust the pinion angle? I'm sure they could be made to work with the spring under axle, but I think you would need to put them in from the other side (the front of the axle, I believe)

It almost sounds like it would be easier to just order a custom front drive shaft with the flanges you need, instead of sourcing an older shaft, having it shortened, and then buying an adapter..

Anyone have any other info on this?
 




r37ribution

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You Must Measure And Install A New Driveshaft

I cannot stress this enough. Measure and replace your drive shaft please people!!!!!

inh, that was me your talking about...I went over a small bump while slowing down and my yoke ripped apart, it was wedged against my gas tank. I cannot imagin what would have happened if this occured on the free way.

I envision the drive shaft ripping a hole in my gas tank shortly before it falls to the ground and gets caught on a pot hole and well use your imagination...
 




The_Driller

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how much does this kit cost?
 




kert0307

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gavin

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FYI, NeapCo makes the correct double-cardan style flange to bolt to the 6-bolt hole flange on the t-case.

NeapCo Part # N2-83-287X


N2-83-287X note:
Converts GKN 6 Ball plunge style joint to double cardan u-joint. Fits some Ford, Mercury, and Mazda applications.

You could most likely purchase this flange, and a 96 Sploder OEM double-cardan shaft, and save on the labor for shortening a driveline. I've heard a Jeep Cherokee front shaft and this flange would work also.


side note:
Rockford Driveline makes a single cardan joint shaft for Explorers/Rangers, but even without a (suspension) lift, it causes a vibe due to the joint operating at a consistent ~5* angle. This shaft uses NeapCo part # N2-2-1757

N2-2-1757 note:
Used on 1997 and newer Ford Ranger and Explorer applications. Converts GKN style 6 ball plunge joint to cardan u-join.(Except some AWD applications) Not recommended for applications in excess of 3* continuous operating angle. See N2-83-287X in Section IX-13
 




gavin

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just a lil update on the front drive shaft.
if you can source an oem double-cardan shaft from a '96 V8 Explorer, and swap the NeapCo end yoke, it may be the correct length.

comparing my custom double-cardan for my 97, and swapping the NeapCo end yoke onto the oem 96 d-c I sourced, the shaft is now about 4" too long for a stock application.

if I had a suspension lift, it would probably fit. And the total cost for it would have about $200 :thumbsup:
 




r37ribution

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Just curious why you would need a different front driveshaft? I am still running the stock one up front. The distance from the t-case to the diff did not change for me with this lift, only in the rear due to SOA (or AALs however you did it).
 




gavin

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Just curious why you would need a different front driveshaft? I am still running the stock one up front. The distance from the t-case to the diff did not change for me with this lift, only in the rear due to SOA (or AALs however you did it).

the distance wouldn't change much, but the angle the joint operates at at the t-case would have.

and it looks like your front d-shaft has a double-cardan, not the gkn cv-joint, correct?
 




r37ribution

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the distance wouldn't change much, but the angle the joint operates at at the t-case would have.

and it looks like your front d-shaft has a double-cardan, not the gkn cv-joint, correct?
Hmm, you know what I never thought about the distance on the front one changing. Shit. I'll have to check my yoke.

To be honest I'm not sure what type of d-shaft I have in the front, I haven't changed it so it must be the stock one...I can take a pic.
 




gavin

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Hmm, you know what I never thought about the distance on the front one changing. Shit. I'll have to check my yoke.

To be honest I'm not sure what type of d-shaft I have in the front, I haven't changed it so it must be the stock one...I can take a pic.

p10102237bx.jpg


this is yours, from your build-up thread, no?
most likely double-cardan, due to the slip shaft ;)
the gkn cv-joint wouldn't have that boot in the middle of the shaft. Although, it could possibly be a standard single-cardan, but I do not believe any 2nd gen Sploders came stock with those; only the double-cardan :thumbsup:
 




r37ribution

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Yup that's definately mine LOL. Didn't even realize I posted that pic. So your sayin a NeapCo Part # N2-83-287X would make the stock 2nd gen driveshaft 4" longer. Hmm not sure if I need that much. I would have to measure.

So a custome d-shaft was needed for your torsion twist? How much lift do you have?
 




gavin

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Yup that's definately mine LOL. Didn't even realize I posted that pic. So your sayin a NeapCo Part # N2-83-287X would make the stock 2nd gen driveshaft 4" longer. Hmm not sure if I need that much. I would have to measure.

So a custome d-shaft was needed for your torsion twist? How much lift do you have?

shoot, I never did upload those pics....

no, I purchased a used OEM double-cardan front d-shaft off chriswells; it came out of a 96 V8 Sploder. The OEM shaft itself is actually longer than the custom unit I have. About 3" longer or so. The slip-shafts are the same length. Then adding the NeapCo would add an extra couple inches, due to it being a 2-piece end-yoke instead of a solid single piece.

and no, a custom shaft was not needed. I was trying to get rid of the POS gkn-style cv-joint driveshaft.
 




MK1

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Sorry if this is a dumb question but...

I'm new to the forum, just wondering if anyone knew of a way to get a couple extra inches out of the coil-overs? i.e. longer springs, additional spring lengths, repositioning mounts. My rear end is currently 4" higher than my front just looking to get the front within 2" of the rear.
 


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r37ribution

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I'm new to the forum, just wondering if anyone knew of a way to get a couple extra inches out of the coil-overs? i.e. longer springs, additional spring lengths, repositioning mounts. My rear end is currently 4" higher than my front just looking to get the front within 2" of the rear.
There is a lot of info about different spring and coil-over combos in this thread:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186393
 




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