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Read codes, Have Questions

G

geoph1986

Here's the codes I'm getting.

KOEO:
111 - pass test

CM:
214 - cylinder identification circuit failure
337 - EGR sensor circuit above maximum voltage

KOER:
337 - EGR sensor circuit above maximum voltage

For code 214, I've read that I have to clear codes, and if the code comes back right away, there's a problem with the CID circuit.
The battery was disconnected for quite some time, wouldn't that have cleared the CM codes, or do I have to pull the jumper wire to clear them?

Possible components I've read it could be are:
1. Faulty CPS
2. Faulty ICM
3. Faulty PCM

For code 337, I've read that the solution is to replace the DPFE sensor.

Now the questions:
1. Are these codes related?
2. Without replacing parts randomly, how would I find the cause of code 214? Just start unplugging stuff?
3. Is replacing the DPFE sensor the cure to code 327, or are there other things I should check first?
 



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1. Are these codes related?
You'd want to check a good wiring diagram to see if they share a common power supply or something, but I don't know that I would expect them to be related.

2. Without replacing parts randomly, how would I find the cause of code 214? Just start unplugging stuff?
Check the wiring to/from the camshaft position sensor. CM 214 gets dealt with quite a bit, so you might run it through the site's search engine.

The battery was disconnected for quite some time, wouldn't that have cleared the CM codes, or do I have to pull the jumper wire to clear them?
Yes, that should have cleared the codes. The idea behind clearing codes and seeing if the CM 214 comes back immediately helps determine if the fault is consistent or intermittent.

3. Is replacing the DPFE sensor the cure to code 327, or are there other things I should check first?
Hard to say for certain where you aren't getting a KOEO 335 or similar. Where the fault is only detected by the computer when the engine is running, it could also be a problem with the EGR valve, or a vacuum line to the sensor, or the anything else that would interfere with the exhaust gas flow. In this case, I'd be sure to check the EGR system carefully for other faults before replacing the DPFE.
 






also about the dpfe module.... ( buy what you can afford first of all but ) , if you find out that the unit is bad then try to buy the new updated version dpfe unit from ford ( new plastic caseing and new style wire harness ) .in the past year and a half since i've had my truck i have constantly had egr / dpfe problems and after going through about 4 " new " dpfe units ( from auto zone :rolleyes: and also i've read that ford knew about the faulty dpfe units ( they were all bad ) and if they had code 327 come up that were ordered to just replace it with the new updated version ) ) i gave up and bought the motorcraft part and has not failed yet ...about aprx% $30 more dollars for it compared to a aftermarket one but i think it was money well spent just remember to replace the 2 hose's that run to off the egr tube and try to use silicone tubeing ...rubber will work but deforms easilly in the preseance of heat / exhaust system .


something else to remember ...if you've been takeing off wire harness connectors off the sensors ,be carefull..... since your truck is a first gen explorer the plastics everywere under the hood can become brittle over time and will break on you or like me i was removeing and pluging back in sensors left and right when i was haveing problems and ended up breaking 2 of my sensor clips ( the little part that hold the harness to the sensor ) and also ended up messing up my egr solinoid harness( the red wire got pushed out of the harness and had to use hot glue while i held it in postion to set .

if you do, it's not really a problem but you can find what you need at a yard for that problem . but double check your wires and make sure that those rubber weatherproofing seals that are on each sensor did not get messed up from plugging and unplugging stuff ...had this happen to me on my maf and put the seal back into postion and was good to go but yet when i looked at it and felt it while on the maf it looked and felt like it was clipped in .


pic of the new style dpfe unit ......

DSCN1372.jpg
 






Ok, I haven't checked anything out yet, but am prepping for the worst, That way if it's not the worst it won't be so bad. It's a weird way of thinking...but whatever. This is about the 214 code. I don't have a garage, and it's getting cold out. Can the electronics of the CPS be swapped, without the use of special tools? Or does the whole assembly have to be replaced? I don't have the time to pull the intake off to change a dummy distributor, plus like I said, it's outside and getting colder out. If I can just swap the electronics, are there any special tips or tricks, so the truck runs after?
 






if your takeing about the camshaft postion sensor then it's located on the back side of the motor and is under the upper intake system ..tho i never removed it i don't think you need special tools persay but if it's the other cps (crankshaft sensor ...sorry i f i got my abbreviations mixed up ) it's located near the harmonic balancer...can't mis it .

and swapping the guts from one to another ...don't know, i want to say no you can't because some sensors are encased in either plastic or filled and sealed with resin .
 






OK, I think I know why I'm getting the EGR code. Before I got the truck, the LIM was replaced (I know this from receipts), and I think the hoses on the vacuum tree are connected wrong. The vacuum diagram I'm using is the third one down in post #3 here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=232576

The part listed as CANP is the canister purge solenoid, I believe. From what I've read it should be under the upper intake, and it is not. That's not a big deal but, does it matter how the hoses attach to it as far as an intake side?
The part listed as the EVR, is that the DPFE? It's currently connected the way it shows in the diagram, but from pictures I've seen and X's at the u-pull, the hoses from it go to the EGR port off the exhaust, and the EGR is connected to the vacuum tree. Which is right? Does it matter which ports on the exhaust the EVR ports connect to? And one last question, does it matter what port on the vacuum tree this stuff connects to?
CPS will have to wait until I get this figured out. But based on the vacuum stuff, I hope it will be as simple as not being connected.
Thanks.
 






the dpfe unit has two hoses that connect to it ( one big and one small ) on the egr tube ( which buy the way is the only place it connects to ...not the vac tree ) there are 2 tube ports ( one big and one small ) they connect accordilly to their sizes.

as far as it should be plumbed ...egr tube to dpfe sensor...from the vac tree it goes to the egr solinoid then that goes into the egr valve ( i think that the "short port " on the egr solinoid is the one that outputs to the egr valve)
 






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