rear brake line leak!

[giantsfan]

I have a 98 Explorer XLT AWD that had the main brake line blow a leak today. Its the main line from abs all the way back to the connection to the rear brakes just behind left rear wheel. I started to look at for a connection in the middle to my surprise no connection. It is one continous line. This line runs along the frame, and is tucked ever so nicely behind the gas tank.

First question:
Can I just cut the section on line that is leaking and replace it with a new section on line? I would only need 6 inches of line.

Second:
Does anyone have any tips for an easy way to do it? Im thinking the same way I would fix a fuel line. Is it the same concept?

Third:

If I cant cut it, how much of a p.i.a is this going to be? and do I need to drop the gas tank?

Thanks Fellas

 

[Turdle]

I think I would just leave the old line in there and try to run a new line along side it if possible.

zip tie it in place.

 

[cjmedina]

Run a NEW line.

DO NOT USE COMPRESSION FITTINGS!

CJ

 

[hoss_hanna]

with fuel or other flammable fluids there is no question, run a new line. no comp fittings. its just not worth the dice roll...

 

[safn1949]

Agreed,no compression fittings.Just run a new line,it's not that much money.The other choice is if you have the tools to do a proper double flair so you can screw a short new line in...probably not so don't fool around with it and do a half way job.Think long hill,no brakes....sounds like fun,huh?

 

[safn1949]

Oops,it double posted.

 

[hworksinc]

Agreed,no compression fittings.Just run a new line,it's not that much money.The other choice is if you have the tools to do a proper double flair so you can screw a short new line in...probably not so don't fool around with it and do a half way job.Think long hill,no brakes....sounds like fun,huh?

+1 - compression fittings are asking for a major blowout at some point in the not to distant future.

IIRC, there's an extra set of clips or two along the frame rail for a new brake line - you shouldn't even have to use zip ties.

I actually used the repair method myself (my line was chafing on the steering shaft... still can't figure out how that happened...) I happen to have a double flare tool, so I found the repair to be easier than running new line. If you do the repair correctly, it'll be just as strong as a new line. If you choose to do this, carefully check the entire length of existing line to make sure there are no other problem areas. If there are, just go for the replacement.

 

[1995E]

My dad's 1995 4WD Explorer has the same problem. It occured today and the rear left wheel brake like has sprung a major leak. Is there a complex procedure to replace it? Where can we get the brake line?

 

[Carguy3J]

Not that I recommend it, but I actually used a compression fitting once, with great success. I had to repair a rotted section of rear brake line on my 3/4 ton Chevy. I couldn't get my hands on a flare tool, and it HAD to be fixed. I used a compression fitting, intending to replace it later. I completely forgot about it. It held up for several years of towing to the race track (1.5hr+ each way), a trip to Boston from NJ (also towing a car), and about 3 years of sitting, not being driven at all. I was only reminded of it when I had to replace all the hardlines due to rust/rot. The section I had put in w/ the compression fitting was the only thing in good shape! Of course, I ripped it out anyway, as I will replacing everything with new, and to get rid of the compression fitting.

In any case, for a line that runs the length of the Explorer, you have two options: 1.) buy bulk line and fittings, and get a double-flare tool. With this option, you will have a single continuous line, with only a connection at each end. 2.) Buy the longest sections of store-bought line (w/ the fittings attached) you can find, along with several couplers. In this case you will multiple "joints" along the length of the line, as no one makes a pre-made line long enough to run the whole length of the Explorer, along with all the bends/turns needed.

If the rest of the line is really in good shape, then just cut-out and replace the damaged section. You might as well learn how to flare now. If you work on vehicles any length of time, you'll need to do it eventually.

 

[olskool reddevil]

Thank you Carguy i was starting to feel paranoid with all the no comp fittings I think I started the issue a month or so ago.
There is enough room to make a union just b-4 the gas tank and you can make the whole run with just 2 lines without having to make any flairs just buy one union

 

[cjmedina]

NO BRAKE LINE COMPRESSION FITTINGS!!!!!!

I knew someone that did just that and totaled the SUV with the family aboard because of loss of brakes.....DON'T DO IT!

 

[Carguy3J]

Thank you Carguy i was starting to feel paranoid with all the no comp fittings I think I started the issue a month or so ago.
There is enough room to make a union just b-4 the gas tank and you can make the whole run with just 2 lines without having to make any flairs just buy one union

Umm, perhaps you misunderstood me. As I said, I wouldn't recommend it, and from what I hear it is illegal to have compression fittings on brake lines. I just happened to get away with it. It was more of an "oops, look what I did", more than a "here's what you should do."

You need double flared fittings on brake lines. Compression fittings are a BAD idea on brake lines!

 

[olskool reddevil]

I'm with you on that do it once do it right but as you said in a emergency they work and will get you home and then some

 

[olskool reddevil]

I'm with you on that do it once do it right but as you said in a emergency they work and will get you home and then some
When I said 2 pieces with 1 union up above I meant a coupling not a comp fitting I allready learned that lesson

 

[96eb96]

if you Search around the forum there are lots of tips for this procedure.