Rear brake problems...

[Xarus]

Hey everyone, I'm new here kinda. I've been lurking and learning for the past year or so ever since I got my 92 Explorer with a blown head gasket and rebuilt it.

I've found a few threads about this issue but they're older and I didn't want to resurrect an old thread. I finally purchased new hardware and shoes for the rear brakes as I had never changed them since I had the truck, and recently replaced the front rotors and pads. When I took the drum off the rear passenger side the whole inside was covered in brake fluid, nothing fresh, it was all old and dried to everything. So I assume the wheel cylinder failed and promptly bought two more. I cleaned and replaced everything after much trial and error with the springs and all that fun stuff.

I assume my rear brakes haven't worked since I've had the truck, the rear shoes had some good meat on them still. I also noticed when I disconnected the brake lines from the wheel cylinders that there was not much fluid leaking out. After getting everything set I tried to bleed the brakes since I disconnected the brake line to get the new cylinders in, except that I'm getting nothing more than a few drops out of the bleeder valves when I try to bleed it. Front brakes bled fine and I have no dash lights on. I read on here about the RABS module going bad? I'm mentally preparing my self to probably bypass it if thats the case as I've read the aftermarket ones are really bad. I've located the RABS module but its tucked inside a frame rail and my front drive shaft runs right in front of it making it even harder to get too. But its the only thing I can come to think is the problem now? The rest of the lines look okay still. Could this be the Master Cylinder going bad? I'm assuming it is stock still.

Sorry for the long post! Please let me know if I've broken any rules since questions like this have been asked before. I haven't found any with quite the same situation as I though. Thanks!

 

[OneofMany]

It could be the rabs is clogged up.

 

[yostyexplorer94]

If you do bypass it, you can run a new brake line directly off of the master to the rear brake hose.

 

[2stroke]

I'm not going to speculate where the clog could be. Old fluid absorbs moisture from the air and rusts steel lines from the inside. It could be a rust particle, it could be a chunk of rubber hose, or anything else. If you really wanted, you could disconnect the line at the ABS module, and see if it comes out good there. It is perfectly fine in my mind to eliminate rear-only ABS, it doesn't do much anyway when it works perfectly. As yostyexplorer94 said, run a new brake line from the master cylinder. If you go that route, it would also be wise to go ahead and buy a new rear brake hose (comes with the junction block), and run new lines to each wheel cylinder.

 

[Centaurious]

Remove the brake hose in the back from the body line and have someone depress the brakes as you watch the end of the line. Brake hoses can crack internally and act like check valves stopping flow to or from the wheels.