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Rear diff leak

turboexplorer

Elite Explorer
Joined
August 23, 2008
Messages
1,949
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37
City, State
Eagle Mountain, UT
Year, Model & Trim Level
98' XLT 5.0L 4X4
Callsign
Turbo
My rear diff was dry no leaking but maybe a 90,000 ewzz that was barley there. Last night we went for a off road drive and I got under it today to take the running boards off to start my rock sliders and I noticed the rear diff. WAY bad leak had a few drops sitting on the bottom of the diff. I can't get any play at all in the pinion and the rest feels fine as well. Just need to re seal the pinon or should I re bearing the whole rear end. Here are some pics of the leak. Weird it would blow like this, Like I said the day before there was Nothing on the diff. And it wasn't a very hard run either.

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yupp thats your pinion seal. my front dif started leaking a couple months back, got it fixed then a couple weeks ago my rear started leaking just like yours and just got it fixed this morning. Both times I just through a new seal on there and topped it off-no problems at all. If you have a L.S rear though be sure to put some l.s gear additive in there. Along with synth gear oil.
 


















a Pinion speedi-sleeve is what it's called as opposed to a new yoke if you search for pinion speedi sleeve on here im sure you will find something.
 






I am going to buy the seal and pull the yoke and replace the seal and then put the yoke back on. I have talked to Ford and to my shop in Salt Lake and both say you should be just fine to put it back as long as you dont crush the sleeve and that takes a lot of pressure 250-300ft-lb. So lock-tight and torque to like 80-90 and you should be set :)
 






i just did my front and rear last night in the shop and i thought what the hell while im gonna do it why not make er look nice (i took my cover off to let fluid drain/clean) i bought a cover from summit, 29 shipped bolts and all :D

 






Thats sad and unfortuntate
 












i just did my front and rear last night in the shop and i thought what the hell while im gonna do it why not make er look nice (i took my cover off to let fluid drain/clean) i bought a cover from summit, 29 shipped bolts and all :D


Sick lookin truck man nice work!! :) How many miles do you have on yours and you just pulled the yoke and re sealed it not redoing the crush sleeve?
 






Sick lookin truck man nice work!! :) How many miles do you have on yours and you just pulled the yoke and re sealed it not redoing the crush sleeve?

yea i work at a dealer so of course i have access to everything but if you have an impact that would do wonders for you.. just pop the drive shaft bolts off, they are the funky shape so size right, zip that big nut off, used a 3 claw pully puller type thing with the impact, then jabbed the side of the pinion seal with the special tool and pulled that out. then on the new one i put grease all around the side where the little spring goes around otherwise he will pop out, lined him up , wam with a big socket till he got goin, put the yoke up with the nut and started to impact her on the rest of the way..takes like 10 minutes**


. *if you got the **** lol
im sure theres other ways to improvise though



oh and ps i have about 136k on her---the way i drive add 50- lool
 












Mine leaked at 104,000 and it's starting to seep again at 240. I changed the diff oil every 50,000 miles and it still leaks. I pulled the drive shaft off and slapped a new seal on it and re-torqued it, just have to be careful not to over tighten the pinion nut and crush the spacer in there.

at 90,000 I doubt you need bearings unless it's noisy and sounds like some ones rolling a can of rocks as you drive. or it's got a 'body boom' or feels like someones jumping up and down in the back.

You'll need a 12 point socket and a lot of muscle or a good breaker bar to get it off, mine took me a while to work it off as Ford had put red loctite on the driveshaft bolts.
 






at 90,000 I doubt you need bearings unless it's noisy and sounds like some ones rolling a can of rocks as you drive. or it's got a 'body boom' or feels like someones jumping up and down in the back.

You'll need a 12 point socket and a lot of muscle or a good breaker bar to get it off, mine took me a while to work it off as Ford had put red loctite on the driveshaft bolts.

Yeah wasn't planning on re bearing it the whole thing anyways, but you do have to pull it all to put in a new crush sleeve so thats why I asked. Diff feels fine runs fine and is quiet just seal started to leak after a night of wheelin. Didn't leak much today course wasn't drivin as far either. Driveshaft bolts no problem its been out many a times (4406 conversion) Thanks guys, :)
 












Provided you do not maintain your truck! :rolleyes::rolleyes:

oh no its just "something that happens" you cant really do much to prevent it if you use your truck....
 


















Just sagging a little I'll take a pic of the new mount and where to measure and then you can see on yours. Mine is sagging just a little bit but where I have problems with it is it lets the T case and the Trans shift side to side a little and with the 4406 swap and how tight it is. Under load it rubs on that big front gas tank bracket. (just the side of the case bumps it) So with the mount hope it will keep it off that. It was $17 worth the shot right? Besides most that have done the swap have to do it in not to long anyways because the t case is a lot heavier than the AWD one! And more pressure is put on all that with the 4lo :) = MONEY :) Its great!
 



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I fixed the leak today. Was real easy just rent a pulley puller from your local auto parts store if you don't have one it comes right off. All done and no more leaks.

Puller
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New/Old seal
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Cleaned rear diff cover
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All done and no more leaks :)
0123091734.jpg
 






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