Rear Diff Leaking?!?!...NEED HELP!!!

[stsmoker]

Just jacked my 05 Explorer up to change the oil at school, and realized that my rear differential has a leak where the axle goes into the differential itself. I was looking on AllData and saw there was a TSB about a rear halfshaft seal prematurely going bad, but im not sure if this is actually the correct seal or if my Explorer is leakng from another type of seal.

I dont know what a half shaft is or where its located and i called the dealership and they didnt sound like they knew what i was talking about and said it was the pinion seal or something, so whos right....Please help

 

[Premier]

picture?

 

[James909]

A half shaft is the driveshaft that goes from the differential to the wheel. So the TSB on Alldata is referring to the same seal that you are saying is leaking.

 

[stsmoker]

Thanks man, that what i figured..but the Ford 'service/parts' man wouldnt listen to me and wanted to tell me it was the pinion seal or something. But i appreicate it, I'll post a pic tommorow after i get home from school and prob order that seal too and get that diff to stop leaking. But thanks again james!

 

[fordbluefamily]

The pinion seal is where the driveshaft from the trans goes into the rear diff, the halfshafts are on either side going to the wheels. I dont believe a seal swap is that simple. Pinion isn't bad, but the others........

 

[stsmoker]

Well alldata calls for 1.6 hours + parts... i think they said theyd do it for 150 or so (both sides) but only one side is leaking. But in my auto class at school, my teacher siad hed do it for me if i brought in a seal, so i think thats what ima do...so hopefully that i get the correct seal lol

 

[stsmoker]

here's the leak, coming out between the diff and half shaft (right side)

 

[stsmoker]

so for sure this is the halfshaft seal?

one more question...whats the difference between xls sport and a standard xls?

 

[IZwack]

Sure looks like you got the right seal -- but it might be called something a little different, maybe just "axle seal", or "axle shaft seal".

 

[gijoecam]

Sure looks like you got the right seal -- but it might be called something a little different, maybe just "axle seal", or "axle shaft seal".

Agreed. In other words, it's NOT the pinion seal. And, yes, there is a TSB for the revised seal assembly. Personally, if you're doing one, do them both. Both halfshafts have gone around the same number of times... If one's bad, the other's probably not far behind.

 

[stsmoker]

Sounds good...Yeh im definately gunna do both sides! It cant be too time consuming seeing how it only calls for an hour and a half so, get my auto teacher to do it for me and i can give him a hand...shouldnt take too long.
Thanks guys though!!!
This place is awesome!

 

[stsmoker]

Changed out the leaking seal in the rear diff today. Sorry I dont have any pictures right now, and unfortunately I forgot my camera at home today so i couldnt get pictures. However the seal came with a set of instructions that i should be able to scan and post up here. The seals are relatively easy to replace, took about an hour up on a lift.

1. Removed the Hub nut I believe with a 36mm socket
2. There were 2 bolts that i unbolted to just get the hub assembly free to move around, unbolted it from the struts/shocks
3. Removed the wheel speed sensor and put it off to the side so i didnt damage it
4. Finessed the axle shaft out of the bud with the help of a 3lb Hammer and a pry bar
5. From here i used a chisel and the hammer the force the shaft out of the rear diff. and removed it from the truck
6. Used a pry bar to remove the old seal (it was pretty pathetic looking...looked CHEAP compared to the new seal)
7. This is where it got a little fun...putting in the new seal without a special seal installer. First we tried a hammer, didnt work, not enough room to work under there. But we eventually improvved and took a big enough socket that fit part of the seal very well (not sure what size but it was a biggin). We then took 2 long extensions and used them as a make shift seal installer. We lifted up the hub assembly and inserted the extensions through them with the socket at the end we now had room to work and we could hit it pretty squarely, reducing the risk of damaging the seal and also helped to get it in there well.
8. After the seal was seated properly, I reinstalled the axle shaft and bolt everthing back into place.


All in all, there were only i believe 2 bolts to unbolt the hub from the suspension componets. Then the wheel speed sensor. Key here in the seal install is PATIENCE. Ended up not even having to add rear end lubricant (and DAMN that stuff stinks!!!)


Everything seems to be working properly, got home and checked for a leak, and it still looks good..nice and clean


But Monday I can get those instructions and scan them (hopefully my teacher didnt throw them away o_0 ) but it was a fairly easy install. AllData only calls for 1.6 hours for both sides i believe so that says a lot lol. Hope this helped some of yall out there. Sorry for the lack of pictures right now though =/

 

[Pontisteve]

I just did this job, along with rear wheel bearing/hub replacements on both sides of my 03 Explorer. I want to point out a few things that I disagree with, so that others might be aware of them. I'll also list generally what it takes to replace these seals.

First off, the disagree list:

Don't use a hammer to push the rear axles in thru the hub assembly. Doing that can damage the CV joints. The correct tool is a FWD Hub remover like this one:

http://www.otctools.com/products/detail.php?id=1699

CV joints are not made to be compressed under shock like that. Also don't use a chisel. You could damage the aluminum rear end housing, or the axle tripod. Use a block of 1x1 wood.

I've also noticed many people say a 36mm socket is what is needed. I used a 35mm socket. I believe that the 36 probably works, but is not the correct size. That should be a problem tightening it back up. Ok, so here's what I did (closely following Fords instructions):

1) Have someone put their foot on the brake while you remove the axle nut with a 35mm socket
2) Remove the tie rod bolt and nut
3) Remove the Ball joint bolt and nut
- Don't use a separator tool under the boots, or you will rip them.
4) Use the Hub separator to push the cv axle thru the hub
5) Swing the hub out of the way
6) Pop out the old axle using a 10" long block of 1x1 wood and a mini sledge hammer. Hit the axle tripod from the rear end side. Locate the block of wood from the front side of the rear end, or possibly the bottom side. The axle pops out easily.
7) Pull out the old seal. I tried a puller, but ended up using a very small flathead screwdriver to start the removal of the seal, and worked my way up to a regular flathead screwdriver. Take care not to damage the rear end housing with the screwdriver!!!
8) Remove the 2nd half of the seal from the CV axle. You will eliminate this part entirely when installing the newest version of the rear seal. Old seal = 2 pieces. New seal = 1 piece.
9) Polish up the CV axle, where the axle rides inside the seal after installation. Use really really fine sandpaper or polishing cloth.
10) Install the new circlip (comes with seal) on the axle
11) Reinstall axle. Follow Fords torque specs. I think the axle retaining nut is something like 211 ft lbs, but check that. It takes a big torque wrench to go that high. I had to buy one.

Please note that I actually pulled my knuckle completely off, and installed new wheel bearings/hubs. So my experience around step 5 or 6 might be slightly different than if you are just doing the axle seals.