PTU-O/Differential/Transfer-ma-bob semantics aside, anyone with motivation, impact wrench, a slide hammer, a breaker bar and pry bar can do this job. If you can get the axle nuts off, you're most of the way there. Here are some tips for those so inclined:
-Removing the spring and lower control arm entirely is the way to go. It's very full in there.
-The axles popped right off with a pry bar, a twist, and a few light taps. Cable ties can hold up the axle in the wheel well while you pop it out.
-The seals took some grimacing.
As shown in this video, its important to first cave in one side of the ring a little bit to ease the outward pressure. He uses a prybar in that video, but I didn't. A grade 8 washer wrapped in electrical tape fixed to the end of a small slide hammer with two nuts does the trick. Hook the inside of the seal and bonk it out repeatedly. The L type seal pullers and the Lisle 58430 work well too. NOT THE BATWING-looking things at the local auto parts store, don't buy the batwing!
-Clean with no-scratch scotch brite pads and towels (small bit of brake clean).
-Pound the seals in with a rental seal installer & baby sledge. You have to smush the rubber face of the seal doing so. Once you've hit it hard several times, check that it's seated.
-Don't bother buying new axle circlips, nor the 205-816 seal protector, it doesn't even fit in my opinion. Seals come with plenty of red grease on their inside lip, you can even add a little more. Squirt 80w90 gear oil on the splines and push/bonk the axle in until it clicks. Fill 'er up and your done! Reassemble everything else.
Good luck. There's plenty of nuts/bolts requiring replacement doing this job. Definitely do that for safety's sake. I did.
