- January 24, 2010
- Reaction score
- City, State
- Newport News, VA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2001 V8 (Eddie Bauer) AWD
The thing with removing the pinion nut is to return it to the precise location it was removed from. To do this you can make a mark on the nut and the housing with a punch and, using your torque wrench, approximate the tightness of the nut while removing.
Doing this returns the pinion gear teeth to the same depth in relationship to the ring gear teeth, this allows the wear pattern to remain correct. If you install a new crush sleeve, the correct way to measure the correct pinion gear depth and tightness is to use an inch-pound torque wrench and (with the ring gear/spool removed) set the drag on the pinion to something like 12-16 inch pounds. Then you still need to check the pinion/ring gear engagement with a yellow grease-like compound. It's just a lot easier for the DIY'er to just return the pinion nut to the same location.
Thanks. Another question: Why does Dorman sell a kit with the seal, nut and the flange?
What can go wrong with the flange?
As far as I know, preload and pinion depth are two separate things. The preload is for the bearings, not for the pinion teeth engagement. Your (simplified) procedure is for former. Pinion depth should not be affected when only the seal is replaced.
Model# WM7514PL; Meets API GL-5 and MT-1, MACK GO-J, SAE J2360 and Limited Slip specifications
Like must fluids check fill on level ground. Also check the axle vent tube is clear.Well... how much means "top off"?
Fill to 6 mm to 14 mm (1/4 inch to 9/16 inch) below bottom of fill hole.