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Rear Disc conversion questions

Ok - after checking all the boneyards in the area, I can't find a late explorer anywhere - so much for rollovers!

What other options do I have for covnerting the rear to discs? I think a conversion kit will run 500-700 and I'd prefer to not spend that much. any other thoughts?

Jon
 



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tiessen

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Don't quote me on this, BUT I believe that late model 9" and Explorer/F150 8.8"'s have the same 4 bolt backing plate pattern. Thereby, any of the 9" kits should work or calipers off a Linlcon, etc.

Worth looking into.
 






410Fortune

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PLenty of late model Ex's here in COlorado.

You can also get most ofthe parts you need directly from Ford, or whatever. Autozone has the calipers for $12 ea, pads for $39, both lifetime warranty. I believe the rotors are $30 ea as well. So all thats left are the brake lines and caliper brackets.........

Lots of out of state yards are willing to ship......still be cheaper then buying a conversion kit......

Try Denver Ford Parts
ask for Larry.......

they always have several late model Ex's in the yard, they usually cost a little more then the up pull its but thats why they always have what you are looking for.........


If you want I could look for you next time I am down there (couple times a month usually) and you can re-imburse me......email me


Oh and to do the conversion right you will also want to get a 95+ master cylinder suited for your truck........
 






FMExplorer

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One question - why switch master cylinders? I wonb't be running ABS - in fact, the front will be F150 brakes from a '79 pickup...

J
 






410Fortune

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Your current master cylinder is set up to send pressure to rear drums.

It will work with rear discs but not properly (I still have my drum brake master, I have had rear discs for 2 years) I plan to swap them out very soon.

Disc brakes require a different type and amount of hydraulic pressure then drums, so if you want it to be right you will need the rear disc master.......

I have messed with the front/rear biast on my master cylinder tons of times (turning the plunger in and out) trying to get it just right (75% front, 25% rear) and I have been unable to get it perfect (although now it is close).

Also we have noticed the rear discs drag slightly when using the drum master, causing premature wear on the rear pads, and also effects gas mileage and rotor wear.....

:)

details, details....

yes you can get away without it, Rick has been running his discs forever with the stock master, no problems.

Brett (who wrote the conversion article) has the same issues I do, I learned this stuff from him, he helped me put the disc brakes on my truck years ago......he also has rear discs with the drum master on two trucks, but agrees to get it right the master must be swapped out........
 






FMExplorer

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Fair enough.

BTW - I called Larry - he's checking - thanks for the tip.

Another question - how can you tell what %age is going to the front/back? I thought there was a box of some sort under the truck that controls how much pressure goes to the back. I don't mind running with a slight drag for a little while, but knowing I'm dropping a 351 in, I want to make sure the brakes will hold. Also - do you think the ebrake will hold up with 37's?

J

410 - one more thing - what's your real name? I told Larry some dude with a BII/97/92 explorer referred me... :)
 






Alec

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Namity (Doug) is selling a full 8.8 axle. It has 3.27s though. I think it's complete, but not sure.
 






410Fortune

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37's!! I would be more worried about the wheel bearings then anything else.....


My first name is Jamie but Larry knows me as the guy with the bright blue BII that gives him all my $$$

Those guys down there get $$$ in their eye balls when I pull up because they know it means I couldnt find what I was looking for at any of the cheaper yards......
 






FMExplorer

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The 8.8 should handle the 37's no problem. I'll let him know it's you when I call him back in a few minutes.

Alec - Thanks - I'll check into it...

J
 






410Fortune

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with 37's you will be okay, I was just giving you a hard time.

The E brake should be okay as long as you take care of it (new shoes/hardware when you do the rear discs) and dont drive down top of the world for 4 miles with it engadged (like I did, Ebrake light is out:( ) Cost me $105 to fix the ebrake like new (parts from Ford).

Heck you are already going all out, have you considered a driveline brake onteh back of your T case like some Toyota guys use? I bet you could retro fit one rather easy.....cable operated caliper on a rotor that looks like a motorcycle disc brake.......I have thought about this many times, sure would help hold the truck and boat on those steep wet ramps.......
 






FMExplorer

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Driveline brake... Interesting idea! Gives me something else to think about.

I think I found the moutning brackets and calipers locally for $50. The brake lines I can buy new - just need to make sure I have everything before I start driving down the road - My house is elevated (albeit 4 feet) above the street - would hate to pull out of the garage on rims and not be able to stop! :D :eek:

J
 






410Fortune

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Okay dude I cant remember the website but there are aftermarket kits for Toyota t cases that look to me like a few new holes in teh rotor and the driveline brake would work on our T cases.....

Now as for the brake line, when we setup my 97 disc brake 8.8 to be spring over (under a BII) my buddy accidentlly torched my metal brake line that was on the axle, I went to pep boys with a measurement and was able to but the exact length peice I needed with the right fittings on both ends, it took me about an hour to bend it by hand to the right shape for the axle, but it fits and works perfect, it was like $5.

The rubber lines and blocks are the pieces I was talking about you needing to get (from caliper to hard metal line)

The rear discs is one of the best upgrades I ever did to my BII, nothing like a BII with 4 discs and premium carbon metallic pads, this thing stops straight and on a dime! It was real nice in Moab to have those discs to for creeping over those ledges all day long...also they are a must for towing my #3500 boat.......
 






FMExplorer

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Ok - I found Grand Marquis brakes line up pretty well. The bolt holes for the axle seem to line up, but the center hole is a few mm's to narrow. Hopefully, after a little work with a die grinder, they will slip into place. More to come.

Jon
 






FMExplorer

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Ok - A little persuading with the die grinder and I find out the bolt holes do not line up. Leave it up to Ford to multiple bolt patterns to mount brakes to the same axle...

Now I need to widen the holes in the backing plate to accept the studs from the mounts... The joys of conversions!

J
 






Speedfreak

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If the brakes you have are newer Grand Marquis, you should find that the brackets are the same left or right and that one caliper goes to the front on one side and the other goes to the rear on the other side. for some reason Ford thought that would be better on those cars, but for some reason only on those cars.

I would go with the driveline brake, I find with my larger tires that the e-brake is easy to overcome on hills and rough rolly terrain. The e-brake is really cheesie on these disc brake set-ups. I also wore out my e-brake from the lite burned out.:confused: opps......

And i have yet to change my master even on 2 years of driving. I have never replaced pads or anything. I do want a bigger bore master though for stronger faster braking pressure
 






lo_jack

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Hey I would love to get some discs in the rear of my 92, but I REALLY don't have the tools/facilities to do any really complicated "coersing" of parts to fit. Are there any kits or compatible setups existing that I can basically bolt on, or am i an idealist? I love my crossdrilled front rotors, and i would love to see some on the back as well, but I am guessing that this, like everything else, is not that straight forward.

Brian
 






zensius

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What you want is a rear end out of a 95 Ex or later. It's already got discs and bolts right in. All you need to do is change the proportioning valve.
 






Speedfreak

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The rear brakes from a '95 and newer Explorer will bolt right on, and will work fine even without changing the prop valve.
 






NOTAJP

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I've been working on a rear disc swap for a while. I've got everything from a 95+ all brand new, just need to sit down and do it.

Thinking......
I don't think a driveline e-brake would work. Toyota's use one on the transfercase side but the fuel tank is in the way. Hot Rods use a disc e-brake on the diff side but again, the fuel tank is in the way during flex and I'm worried about rocks.

Look in the back of 4wheeler mag, there is disc brake conversion kits there for around $300 if you want all new bolt on and not the hassle of the X e-brake.
 



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410Fortune

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The parking brake is not a hassle when doing the conversion, just get the cables from the disc brake equipped truck. You may also need the cable stop bracket (I dont kno, seee Brett's article)

My truck is a BII with Explorer drivetrain so its a little different, I have plenty of room for a driveline brake.

I use my truck to tow a 19' boat and the E brake is good for holding that sucker on the boat ramp but a driveline brake would be better.......
 






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