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Rear Frame Brake Line Replacement

Robert Nick

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April 2, 2001
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City, State
Brownstown, MI
Year, Model & Trim Level
'92 4WD XLT / 2000 Mounty
I noticed a loss of Brake Fluid from the Master Cylinder over the past few weeks. A leak was detected on a section of Brake Line adjacent to the Fuel Tank/Left Rear Leaf Spring Area. The Fuel Tank was removed from its mounting location to access the damaged area of the Brake Line. Here are a few pictures of my repair.

brakelinebending3.jpg
The bad section of Brake Line was cut using a K-D Tubing Cutter. The new Brake Tube was bent to closely resemble the damaged Brake Line.

reqdbrakeline1.jpg
Some additional items required besides the 3/16" Brake Line. They include 3/16" Brake Line Unions and 3/16" Brake Tube Nuts.

onvehicleflaringtooldie1.jpg
The Tubing installed in the Double-Flaring Tool Fixture at the required distance prior to the Flaring Process.

brakelinedoubleflare2.jpg
Insert the 3/16" Double Flaring Tool Die and Tighted until fully seated in the fixture.

brakelinetubeflare.jpg
Remove the Die and repeat the Process with the Flaring Tool until fully seated in the fixture. Your Double-Flare is completed.

newbrakelinetubeandunion.jpg
Slide both 3/16" Brake Tubing Nuts on the Tube and repeat the Double Flaring Process on the other end of the Brake Tubing.

onvehiclebrakeline1.jpg
Prepare the Good Portion of the Brake Tubing on the Vehicle for the Double Flaring Process. It can be a little tight here along the frame.

onvehicleflaringfixture2.jpg
Fixture in place along the Frame with the Double-Flaring Die.

brakelinedoubleflare1.jpg
The Finished Double-Flare should resemble this finished product.

Install the Finished Brake Line Assembly to the Flexible Hose adjacent to the Rear Axle Assembly.

I reinstalled the Fuel Tank Assembly to its mounting location and Bled the Rear Brakes. I hopes this helps any members in the future.
 


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Roadrunner777

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City, State
Bemidji, MN
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 4x4 Sport 88k
Very nice, thanks for the effort with the pictures. I did plugs and wires yesterday and meant to take pictures of the various extensions and universals, just got too wrapped up in it to remember the camera. I discovered I need brake pads along the way... I'll do pictures then.

Anyway, nice! Doing pressure lines is a good skill.
 




Robert Nick

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City, State
Brownstown, MI
Year, Model & Trim Level
'92 4WD XLT / 2000 Mounty
Thanks Roadrunner. I have had alot of practice with the Snap-On Double-Flaring Tool. I have brought alot of Midwest Vehicles back from the dead with leaking brake lines, due to salt corrosion. Dropping the Fuel Tank can be a PIA with the Floor Jack and Plywood.
 




Tony H

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City, State
New York, Wading River (that's on Long Island)
Year, Model & Trim Level
'91 Eddie Bauer
Did the same about 1 year ago. Didn't drop the gas tank, just yanked the line out after cutting it. I couldn't get the lines to come off the splitter so the job expanded to replacing that 'Y' splitter. Also cut off the Lines that go to each Wheel cylinder.. I had enough line left to slide on teh fitting and double flare those.
 




Robert Nick

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City, State
Brownstown, MI
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'92 4WD XLT / 2000 Mounty
Tony I dropped the tank about 6 inches so I could use the existing Brake Line Frame Clips. I also added a couple extra. My Y-Splitter was rusted bad. It finally broke loose with PB Blaster and 2-Pairs of Vise Grips. I guess I got lucky. I think I will removed the RABS Module in a year or so. The Brake Line in that area is not that good. At least no more Brake Fluid Leaks.
 




Tony H

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'91 Eddie Bauer
Tony I dropped the tank about 6 inches so I could use the existing Brake Line Frame Clips. I also added a couple extra. My Y-Splitter was rusted bad. It finally broke loose with PB Blaster and 2-Pairs of Vise Grips. I guess I got lucky. I think I will removed the RABS Module in a year or so. The Brake Line in that area is not that good. At least no more Brake Fluid Leaks.

Nice, you did it "right" I put a few pieces of 3/8th Gas line in a few spots on the new Gas line to act as a cushion against the Frame and snaked it back through.
My Splitter, I even tried some heat. everything was twisting up.. I had no choice.
 




Robert Nick

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City, State
Brownstown, MI
Year, Model & Trim Level
'92 4WD XLT / 2000 Mounty
Thats a good idea to use 3/8 fuel line to prevent rubbing on the frame. Even though I live in Tennessee, my Explorer is from Michigan so the underbody Corosion is pretty bad in certain spots. I am improving it during my free time.
 




tbergen

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March 7, 2004
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City, State
St. Louis, MO
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 Eddie Bauer
How many bolts to get skid plate off?

Robert,

I need to replace my entire rear brake line on my 93 Explorer. I might have been able to do a repair like you did, but I have since cut it in several places trying to get the whole thing out.

Yesterday I made an attempt to get the skid plate off. As rusty as my undercarriage is (vehicle came from Michigan), I wouldn't even attempt this, except for a couple of years ago the dealer replaced the fuel pump, so I figure these bolts should't be too rusted in place.

My question is how many bolts are there to take out to remove the skid plate. I can easily get to the two front bolts and the front side bolt that also holds the front tank strap in place. I don't see that it is necessary to remove the small plate on the front of the passenger side which is held on by two small nuts, unless it is concealing something. I see one more bolt up high on the passenger side. I tried to get a socket on it, but the driveshaft is enough in the way that I can't get it on straight. Don't really want to mess with the driveshaft too.

Any help would be appreciated.

Ted Bergen
 




Robert Nick

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City, State
Brownstown, MI
Year, Model & Trim Level
'92 4WD XLT / 2000 Mounty
Sorry,
I didn't include any pictures on the previous post on dropping the tank. It has been about two months ago and I think their is two additional bolts that hold the fuel tank shield (Rear Axle Side of the Tank). The straps are under the shield. I would take the small cover off just to get it out of the way. Leave the Fuel Lines on the Tank and drop it down about 6-8 inches so you can access the Brake Line Clips. Since your Fuel Pump was replaced everything should not be seized. Use PB Blaster prior to removing any bolt.
 




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