Rear hatch handle not engaged

[davem]

When I try to use the liftgate handle, there is no tension and I can't open the liftgate.

Using information found here, I removed the interior trim piece of my 2001 XLT so that I could gain access to the inner workings of the liftgate handle mechanism.



I can see a 'dangling' rod with a yellow clip on the end, along with a hole in the driver's side of the liftgate handle itself. I assume the rod somehow connects to the hole in the handle. Can someone explain this ? Or point me to a diagram ?

I will try to post a picture.

Thanks.

 

[davem]

Here's a picture showing how the yellow 'pin' on the end of the 'dangling bolt' plugs into the lift-handle.

This is the part available at Ford for $38, which includes both the yellow pin and the lift latch itself (must be bought as a set).

As it turns out, I need the lift handle - more on that later.

 

[davem]

This picture shows how the lift-lever is broken where the yellow pin plugs in.

 

[davem]

I can put the yellow pin into the lever, but as soon as it opens the lift-gate, it pulls the yellow pin out of the lift lever since part of the lift lever, where the pins plugs into it, is broken.


So it turns out I need to replace the entire lift lever piece, which is rivotted into
place.

I dont know how much work is involved in removing parts to get to the lift lever, but its probably not too bad. But I don't have any tools to rivot, so I might think of some other ways.

I hope the pictures help other people dealing with a similar problem.

 

[Bill MacLeod]

I just removed the latch handle on my 99 last weekend. The rivets had broke off as the panel behind it was rusted out.

I don't see any reason why short s/s bolts, washers and nuts can't be used in lieu of the rivets.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Agreed- every door handle or latch I've replaced on my Ex's have been bolts, aside from the twist type handle on the rear of my 1995... Never used rivets, they're a PITA.

Great pics Dave, thanks for detailing the information for future searches!

 

[davem]

I really like the bolt idea, but a few questions:

1) I can simply drill out the rivots to remove them, right ?

2) I need to be careful about not bolting the plastic to tightly. Besides using washers to spread the load, any suggestions in terms of inch-pounds/ft-pounds of torque ?

3) I was thinking of use some lock-tite on the threads, or maybe a nut with nylon to keep it tight. Am I over-thinking this ? Its not tremendously bad to tear it open again if it comes loose, but trying to avoid that if I can.

4) Why did Ford choose to rivot rather than bolt ? Faster/cheaper from a manufacturing perspective ? Is the use of bolts a security issue (not to me, on a 12 year old rig) because someone could get in with ordinary tools ? (As opposed to drilling out rivots.)

Thanks.

 

[Bill MacLeod]

My plan is to use some loctite on the bolt, maybe even lock washer and/or nylon locnut. Only have to worry that the nut does not fall off from vibration. Snug tight should be sufficient.

Rivets are cheap and much quicker to use during assembly.

 

[Joe Dirt]

^ What Bill said ^

Yes, you can just drill them out. I just took a cordless drill with me to the junkyard when retrieving door handles. Works like a charm.

I'd use a washer and nylock nut. Shouldn't have an issue.

Oh- and probably a nice corrosion-resistant bolt, so you don't get trails after a few years...

 

[AwwPhooey]

How the heck did you find room to work?

Davem, thanks for the pics.

Jumping Jehosephat- I pushed the plastic trim out so I could see what's going on, and can see the linkage just like you showed. The clip on my 2001 XLT has broken and the link is dangling. I was thinking "Oh, just buy a new clip that will snap into the door handle, then figure out how to get it clipped around the linkage."

I see now that this won't work, and I need to get a new handle with clip. I've replaced 2 of my side door handles fairly easily (punched out the rivets, drilled bigger holes, nuts/bolts etc). But it doesn't look anywhere near as easy with this rear hatch. There just doesn't seem to be anywhere near enough room to work in

Even when you get the old handle out and new handle in- how in the heck do you get the clip around the linkage? There is not enough room to work back there between the door and the inner sheet metal that the linkage sits between, and I am not even a big handed guy.

I've managed to keep mine running into 240K pretty well, but I'm kinda' stumped. Maybe a fresh new day will show me a different take next weekend.

 

[davem]

Here's a picture of the finished product (stainless steels bolts, washers, and nut with nylon lock washer built-in).

It takes some patience, but with the door skin removed, you can reach in and manipulate the pieces involved.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Kudos for the follow-up!

 

[AwwPhooey]

Thanks Dave- nicely done. Did you use any special tool to get the clip around the linkage? It's confounding me.

 

[davem]

That last picture that I posted was kinda blurry, so just before I put the door skin back on today, I took a better picture.


As for getting the yellow clip onto the bolt, you can pry it apart (tabs clip it together), but I just threaded it onto the bolt - that way you can adjust it to just the exact position so it plugs into the door handle as needed.


The door skin took a couple of tries to find the best way to get all the skin's tabs to line up into their associated holes in the door frame, so just needed to play with it a bit to get it into position.