Rear knuckle removal - 2007

[07EddyB]

I found this searching:

The rear knuckle design is completely different. Makes replacing rear bearing muuuuuch easier.
Explorer_PL, June 29, 2016

Everything I've seen about removing the rear knuckle supposedly covers models through 2010. Imagine my surprise when I can't find the ball joint that I am supposed to remove and nothing looks the same.
It appears to me that I need to remove the bolts from the 'links' on the top and the lower front and the bolt at the back for the arm the shock is mounted on. And then two bolts in the back.
Does this sound about right to everyone? I don't know why can't find any walk through specific to our generation.
I have the brakes off and the axle nut is off. Just down to pulling the knuckle now.

 

[Explorer_PL]

I took them out several times. What I meant is that the design on 4th gen (06-10) is much better than 02-05 models.
I have the whole spare knuckle out in my garage as I just had a shop pressed a new bearing in since I believe my rear passenger is going bad and I can't stand even the smallest noise. I'll take a picture and post it tomorrow if that helps. If I recall correctly, there are three 24mm bolts and 2 links to connect.
In the older ones you needed to remove the ball joint using an impact chisel or something like that. On our generation, just bolts.

 

[07EddyB]

Thanks for the response. Pics aren't necessary - you've confirmed my suspicions that all those videos claiming through 2010 really only go to 2005. I did find a video about replacing a shaft on a 2006 and he was removing the bolts I had mentioned. Funny part about that video was that he had the rotor and caliper still on and left the upper bolt in. After he beat the crap out of the end of the shaft he just rotated the knuckle up with everything attached and pulled the shaft.
An interesting method.
Anyway - I just used a two arm puller to make sure the hub would move on the shaft. I'm going to try using a front bearing remover I picked up at Harbor Freight to remove the bearing. People use them all the time on front bearings - no press needed. I'll be the Guinea pig and see if it will work on our rears.
And I'm not completely crazy - I also stopped by a nearby shop to confirm that they could press it for me if needed. So I believe I have my bases covered. I'll be hitting it again in the morning. Took the day off to give myself more time and more options for open shops.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Before I gave it to the shop I was able to knock out the hub using a 35 mm socket and a small sledge hammer.

 

[Explorer_PL]

And good luck Eddie.

It would be amazing if you could do it with a portable tool.

PS: The dust shield has a 1" pre-punched hole that is closed with a metal plug for ebrake adjustments. I am going to punch it out and get 1" rubber grommet for that.

 

[07EddyB]

Yeah - the tool isn't designed for removing the hub so I planned on the hammer method on that. I did get the kit - new bearing, clip, and hub so I don't have to be careful with the old one. For future reference, I'm using the Moog kit from Advance.
Interesting point - the box says Made in USA- the bearing itself is a National Bearing in a box labeled Made in Korea.
You've got me thinking about the grommet - it's hard to adjust those parking brake shoes.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Usually you can reuse the hub. There is not much that can go bad with those. I always just got the bearing only.

"You've got me thinking about the grommet - it's hard to adjust those parking brake shoes." - more like impossible

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Rubber-Gr...888632?hash=item3aa2f24178:g:3E8AAOSwNSxU4TvB

 

[07EddyB]

I got the hub to move about a half inch beating on it but I decided to just run it down to the shop to have it pressed. It's only about a mile away from me and no sense beating my stuff to death. Unfortunately, that means I won't get to try the bearing press. Oh well - maybe on the driver's side. Its death is inevitable - and it will die shortly I'm sure.
The bearing felt very rough turning - I'm thinking it was the source of the noise.
Anyone got torque specs handy? I'll be researching that while I wait for the shop.

Edit - So far I'm getting 203 on the axle nut.

 

[Explorer_PL]

It was about 200 on the rears and 150 for the fronts, so 203 sounds right.

 

[07EddyB]

Back from the test drive. No more roar - no more vibration between 60 and 75. In case it hasn't been said before, a vibration that you can feel through the steering wheel can still be a rear bearing. It really surprised me how much vibration can transmit from a rear bearing through the steering wheel.
Reassembly was more difficult than I thought it would be. Things don't really want to line up between all the different suspension pieces but with some persuasion it got done. If you're on the fence about doing it yourself then go for it - but only if you have air and an impact. There are some serious bolts in there in some awkward places.
Oh - and don't make the mistake I did which was assume that the rear axle nut is the same size as the front. I had to go out last night and score a 35MM impact before I could even really get started.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Feels good having it done yourself - right ?

And it was not that bad. Yes, you need some crowbars and additional jacks to align all the pieces back in place.

 

[07EddyB]

Feels good having it done yourself - right ?

And it was not that bad. Yes, you need some crowbars and additional jacks to align all the pieces back in place.

Yep. I've done a lot of things over the years but this was my 'Baptism' in suspensions. You can't really count changing shocks in the 70's. It wasn't that bad - but I have been working on my vehicles for years - I've built quite a tool set.
As for alignment - I have a little bottle jack. Most would think that it's worthless since I have a mighty floor jack.
That humble bottle jack is one of the useful tools I own. It proved its worth once again today.

 

[07EddyB]

BTW Explorer_PL - I'm going to call you out and say I appreciate your feedback on this thread as well as my rear brake thread. I've been following this forum since I bought my Explorer 9 years ago and I'm as guilty as anyone about not contributing on a regular basis.
In the past few weeks I have learned that if I post - Explorer_PL will respond. I thank you for that.
We need more dialog here. My rear brake thread hit 3 pages and 59 posts. I actually put an effort into keeping it going. And it worked.

Let's talk guys.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Thanks Eddie -

I always enjoy posting here. This is the only place where I can say I hear noises and you guys believe me
Just for fun, since I am doing same thing - replacing the rear knuckle with bearing, here is the view of the access hole for the star adjuster. Why did Ford not leave it open ? Probably saving few cents.
I am waiting for the grommets.

 

[07EddyB]

So you're pursuing the grommet - good deal. Keep us updated. I just wanted to get things back together today and didn't go there.
Don't you just love how you can't adjust the parking brake without snagging the bottom Spring?
Really Ford - put a little distance between the bottom spring and the adjuster please.

 

[Explorer_PL]

I just put it back together on the bench few minutes ago. What a stupid design, so hard to hold the pin thru the knuckle and the shoe, and clip it. And I did it on the work bench.

Maybe the spring is supposed to work as a locking device for the star nut ? So it does not rotate .......

 

[Explorer_PL]

I watch this guy a lot, subscribed to his channel.

This is a very cool tool, maybe it would work on our rear ones as opposed to the press.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's a cool tool. I've got to R&R the bushings from my sister's 07 Jeep, the front UCA housing pair that take a press of some kind.

That rear drum brake adjuster is supposed to be against the one spring. That holds the setting in place. I'd yank that metal hole plug even if you don't have a rubber plug to fill it. That's a big hole but many Fords have just a hole there with no plug or it falls out.

 

[Xclusively4God]

Hey everyone! It has been a LONG while since I posted here. I just recently purchased an 07 XLT and I am replacing the knuckles/bearings, a task which I was quoted $850 per side. So I have decided to undertake the task myself. I have everything apart, except the three bolts holding the knuckle on. I cannot for the life of me get them off. Tried breaker bar with pipe, tried impact gun, tried PB blaster, and nothing gets these bolts loose. Any ideas?

 

[Explorer_PL]

Wow, 850 and that's US not Canada. Prices went up I see. The bearing is about $ 60 from Timken, $ 30 no name brands.
Do you mean those 3 big 24 mm bolts ?