Rear main seal - Repair sleeve removal | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Rear main seal - Repair sleeve removal

masospaghetti

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Joined
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Messages
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City, State
Huntington Beach, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 XLT, OHV, 4D, 4x4, 5M



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replacing the sleeve?

The photo below shows the sleeve that comes with the kit sitting in a length of PVC I used to install a new seal: Rear main seal removal
SealKit2.jpg


I think the process of driving on the sleeve scores the crankshaft surface. Consequently, if the sleeve is removed and not replaced with a new sleeve the surface will have to be polished which normally requires removal of the crankshaft from the engine. It may be possible to remove the sleeve using the same method to remove the seal but I have never tried it.
 






Idk about getting one off bit I had a hell of a time getting none on. Just fyi
 






Understood that the sleeve scores the crankshaft. I intend to install a new sleeve along with the new seal and am just unsure how to properly remove it.
 






Heat from a propane torch? Carefully applied of course.
 






just heat it, and pry on the lip? I'll be roasting the seal in there too.
 






Well it came out using a hammer as a pry tool. Seal itself popped right out. Thanks everyone...now for the install.
 






How did it turn out for you?

My trans went on xmas eve so while changing it i want to do the rear main seal because my drip has picked up recently. Anything i should watch for?
 






If you don't have a sleeve installed already, I'd recommend NOT installing one unless you really need it. If the crank doesn't look or feel scored (if you can't feel scratches using your fingernail they are probably OK) I'd recommend just installing a new seal.

Then again, I had terrible luck with the sleeve because I didn't buy the special Ford tool. Essentially, the sleeve was installed upside down so that's how I installed mine without even thinking about it. After the transmission was taken down for the third time, I cleaned up the crank as well as I could with fine "triple zero" steel wool and checked for scoring. Surprisingly there was only one fine scratch and so I installed the seal only, the Teflon type.

The seal weeps now, probably because of that one scratch. But if it doesn't worsen I am happy with it.
 






Hey StreetRod 2000 I am in process of putting new engine in a 2005 explorer and am replacing rear main seal. I Installed the sleve much in the manner that yours is sitting in the PVC with the raised lip towards the front of the engine. Is this the correct way to install the sleve?


QUOTE="2000StreetRod, post: 3059487, member: 111113"]replacing the sleeve?

The photo below shows the sleeve that comes with the kit sitting in a length of PVC I used to install a new seal: Rear main seal removal
View attachment 71544

I think the process of driving on the sleeve scores the crankshaft surface. Consequently, if the sleeve is removed and not replaced with a new sleeve the surface will have to be polished which normally requires removal of the crankshaft from the engine. It may be possible to remove the sleeve using the same method to remove the seal but I have never tried it.[/QUOTE]
 






To be honest, I don't know which way it goes. None of my shop manuals explain how to install the sleeve. The sleeve lip is larger in diameter than the outer bearing surface diameter.
SealKit2.jpg

Installing the sleeve with the lip forward seems the only way to install the sleeve first and the seal second. Is the aft edge of the seal beveled (similar to the crank) so the seal won't be damaged when slid over the sleeve?
 






Yeah same here...thing is i installed it like this last night and the edge of the sleve ripped the seal as it was going on. I got new seal today and I cut a pop bottle and created a ramp or a sleeve to slip the seal over the edge of the steel sleeve. It should have came with oen of these to begin with. I did not hammer on face to install it. I used an old bearing race that fit the flange pervfect. Well its in now...will know tomorrow if its leaking. This will wrap up a nightmare of a timing chain deboccle. I cheaped out and bought ebay chains...tried 3 times to get it going...first time where bolt goes into passenger cam it pulled the thereaded insert out and jummped time and crashed valves...new valves and different cam and the passenger chain then broke as well as the jackshaft bolt. New timing set and it still wasnt right. Found used engine for 350 which i should have doen from the beginning.
 






the repair sleeve should be thin enough that with a little finise you should be able to install seal as usual the lip on the sleeve goes toward the oil.if you look at the sleeve mosr of them are scored so you can remove the lip although I don't know how to get to it with the housing installed.
roscoe
 






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