Rear Quarter Window Torque Specifications? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Rear Quarter Window Torque Specifications?

Fisher_White

Member
Joined
April 14, 2015
Messages
20
Reaction score
2
City, State
Texas
Year, Model & Trim Level
Red 98 Eddie Bauer V8 2WD
Earlier this week I picked up a quarter window from an explorer on craigslist that was being parted out to replace the broken one on mine and finally got around to installing it today. The new window is on, but I don't know if its on all of the way. There is a bit of a gap between the window and the frame, but I'm not sure if this is due to the buytl tape that I used (5/16" 3M Windo-Weld) or because I didn't torque the bolts down enough.

If anyone has the torque specs for the rear quarter glass bolts I would greatly appreciate them. Thanks!
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











I used 5/16" butyl when I replaced mine. I think it was too thick. It sealed fine, but my window did not sit flush in some places. I'll have to double-check, but I think it sits flush all around now. It's been five years since install.
 






@swshawaii :

Thanks for the link! I did a search earlier and found another thread regarding quarter glass installation, and the torque specs posted there were quite different. I found a post there with a picture from a book recommending 9-17 in lbs for the bolts, although that was apparently for a 1991 Explorer. I would have never guessed that there would be that big of a difference between the 1st and 2nd gen explorer windows!

@toypaseo :

Regarding the gap: Is this something to be concerned about? I'll have to check to see how far down I am torqued, but if the butyl tape isn't the right size (I used 5/16" as well) then I can replace it with 1/4". I would be interested in knowing if your window still has the gap.

Thanks
 






Regarding the gap: Is this something to be concerned about? I'll have to check to see how far down I am torqued, but if the butyl tape isn't the right size (I used 5/16" as well) then I can replace it with 1/4". I would be interested in knowing if your window still has the gap.

I just took a look at the passenger side that I replaced. There is a gap on the front top corner, and the front bottom corner. Slight gap on the top edge, maybe for three inches in length. Some slight gaps along the bottom edge. I took a look at the other side, which is still factory installed, AFAIK. Gap on the front top corner, and on the front bottom corner. Some slight gaps besides those also.

Sitting flush would keep dirt out from between the body and the window's trim. Since mine, for the most part, sits flush along the top edge, I don't really worry about dirt buildup. Dirt would just fall out along the front edge, and bottom edge. Since the factory installed window has gaps, I think my install is pry fine. No leaks, which is good also.

If your gaps bother you, maybe fill them with some urethane caulking :dunno:

or use some heating from a hair dryer or heat gun to warm up the butyl, and try to carefully push down the window until it sits flush :dunno: (but heating the areas might damage the window's black trim)
 






Thanks for the link! I did a search earlier and found another thread regarding quarter glass installation, and the torque specs posted there were quite different. I found a post there with a picture from a book recommending 9-17 in lbs for the bolts, although that was apparently for a 1991 Explorer. I would have never guessed that there would be that big of a difference between the 1st and 2nd gen explorer windows!

That's weird. Since the bodies are the same, and the windows are the same (AFAIK). My replacement junkyard window was from a 91-94. Identical bronze factory tint. Different part number though.
 












I removed the old 5/16" butyl tape earlier today and replaced it with 1/4". The gap is no longer there and the window sits flush now. Given the seal is watertight, I doubt there will be any other problems with the install, and would recommend 1/4" to anyone who does this project.
 






I removed the old 5/16" butyl tape earlier today and replaced it with 1/4". The gap is no longer there and the window sits flush now. Given the seal is watertight, I doubt there will be any other problems with the install, and would recommend 1/4" to anyone who does this project.

Good to know.
 






2nd on the 1/4" tape as the right stuff to use:

3M 08610 Window-Weld 1/4" x 15' Round Ribbon Sealer Kit
 






Back
Top