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Rear Rotors Stuck 99 EB AWD

00GT

Member
Joined
January 30, 2003
Messages
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City, State
Houston, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
07 EB V8 4x4 & 99 EB AWD
Hi all,

I'm trying to fix the e-brakes on my 99 Eddie Bauer V8 All Wheel Drive. I've read dozens of threads here, and it seems like stuck rotors are fairly common. So far I've sprayed about a half can of PB Baster, hit the rotors with a rubber mallot, a piece of 2x4 and a 3 pound hammer, pounded on the hub, heated the rotors (until warm enough you can't touch them) with a propane torch, and then pounded some more.

The rotors are just stuck. I was thinking the ebrake pads were what was keeping the rotors from coming loose but I removed the cable, then turned the star loosening the pads all the way out. Still the rotors won't budge. I'm pretty sure the rotors are just rusted to the hubs. Although I'm in Texas, the first 8 years this truck was in the North East (Delaware).

Any advice on a next step? I'm debating pulling the four bolts on the back of the axle (See photos) I'm guess at that point the rotor and axle will come out in one piece? At that point can I take them to a shop and have them put in a press to pop them apart?

I'm trying to get this apart without damaging the rotors as they look like they are in good shape.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

brakes1.jpg


brakes2.jpg
 



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A couple problems with your idea. In short, yes that will remove the whole assembly. You have to remove the c-clip inside the rear diff to be able to remove the whole assembly. Removing the rotors will be easier on the vehicle though, because you have almost 5000 lbs working opposite the direction you're hitting. Just keep at it, they'll give. I actually bent my rotor trying to remove it, which until now I did not know was possible. Beat the crap out of that rotor in every possible direction, the 2x4 is optional if you can afford to replace the rotor. good luck.
 






I forgot to mention. If you remove the c-clip, the whole axle shaft will pull out, rotor and all. No need to remove the caliper bracket.
 






Thanks for the info. Is it better to just beat on the rotors or on the hub? Or both? Any chance I'm going to damage the diff with all this beating? (I'm only using a 3 pound hammer)
 






Beat around the outside edge of the rotor. I suspect that if you do have the parking brake shoes backed off enough, that you may have rust that may be "gluing" the rotor to the hub. Smacking it will not do any damage as long as you keep on target and smack the rotor only. Concentrate on the outer part of it.
When you put your new rotors on, I coat the hub/axle end with neverseize. Us northerners have to do this to keep the rust from doing exactly what it has done to you.
Good luck
 






Here's something that may work: Put tires back on and tighten lugnuts by hand leaving them a little loose. Then drive a very short distance. The weight of the truck might break them loose. If propane torch is not working, try mapp gas. It burns hotter.
 






OOGT i have a set of rotor's off my 2000 AWD if you want them they should be able to be turned and i dont think they got damaged with the removal, i replaced with new rotors and ceramic pads a few weeks ago.
 






Here's something that may work: Put tires back on and tighten lugnuts by hand leaving them a little loose. Then drive a very short distance. The weight of the truck might break them loose. If propane torch is not working, try mapp gas. It burns hotter.

Now that you mention that I have used that trick before I think I will give it a try. If it works great, if not I'm no worse off.

I'm concerned about using a really hot torch for 2 reasons. What if I screw up the rotors (warp them) and still can't get them off. Secondly isn't their a rubber gasket were the axle shaft slides into the axle, I'm concerned about melting the gaskets. This is probably a small concern at this point.

I am however starting to lean toward just pulling the axles out. My rear diff cover is already starting to leak a little and I need to fix that anyway...seems like I could save myself some trouble now if I just pull the axles. Later down the road I will have to get the rotors off but I figure since I mostly highway drive, I probably have 30k miles (which would be 2 years) before I need to do a brake job.

Any one have an opinion on why that would or wouldn't be a good idea.
 






OOGT i have a set of rotor's off my 2000 AWD if you want them they should be able to be turned and i dont think they got damaged with the removal, i replaced with new rotors and ceramic pads a few weeks ago.

I may be in touch about the rotors.

I'm going to hijack my own thread...
If I didn't have soooo much pad left I would be really tempted to put ceramic pads on. Did you not feel like ceramic pads with the stock rotors would improve the brakes enough? How are the ceramic pad? Big difference? I've only used them on fast light cars, never a SUV.
 






Two comments, first regarding your stuck rear rotor - my e-brake shoes fell apart on one side and jammed the rotor on ... I didn't realize it at first, went to remove the rear rotor and couldn't get it off. After lots of banging with a hammer, I noticed that the rotor was actually moving about 1/16 inch along the center of the axle as I hit it, but that's as far as I could get it to go. I turned the star-wheel down, but that didn't do it either. Ended up taking it to a garage, but they wouldn't tell me their tricks for removing it.

Second - ceramic pads are great. I now have them all around. It is still an SUV and not a Mustang GT, but it stops better than an average car! Plus there's almost no brake dust on the alloy wheels, even in the front.
 












That video illustrates an EXCELLENT way to snap the ear off the knuckle. Thanks, but I'll pass.

The ear on the rear axle is even smaller...

Rent the largest three-jaw puller you can get. Then use a die grinder with a wire wheel to remove any rust from the hub portion of the axle shaft where the center of the rotor slides over it. Loosely install all five lug nuts on the studs to protect them. Affix the puller to the rotor and tighten it up as tight as you can without breaking it. Then use a large ball peen hammer or baby sledge to whack the hat of the rotor (the area the guy in that video strikes) from both the face and the side. Generally doesn't take more than a couple of whacks to get it to pop loose.

As mentioned, use a thin coating of anti-seize on the face of the axle flange/front hub face where it contacts the rotor to prevent it from happening again.
 






Rent the largest three-jaw puller you can get. .
X 2! :thumbsup:

Had to use the puller myself last summer. Came off with ease. Sure beats killing yourself with the BFH.
 






I have tentative plans to pull the axle shafts (with rotors still attached) tomorrow. While this might not be the best route my rear diff is leaking and I'm pretty sure it's the original fluid so I can kill 3 birds with one stone, hopefully. Since a lot of people recommend pulling the axles just to make the ebrake job easier, I think I'm going to go that route. When I need to do a brake job in a couple of years I'll probably be kicking myself but it seems the best solution for now.
This thread makes it look fairly straight forward.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=214805&highlight=c-clips

I shouldn't have to replace the bearings, but do I need to replace the seals if I don't damage them when I pull the axles out? They don't seem to be leaking now, no fluid on the ground or in the rims? I've got about 127k (mostly highway) miles.
 






I used a 5 lb hammer and beat mine off. Its just rust holding them on. You can use a torch to heat them if you want the re-use them. New ones are like $30. Never heard of taking axels out to get brake rotors off
 






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