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Rear self adjusting shockers.

Metta

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1998 4.0 V6 Auto SOHC
Hi guys,

So the back end is sitting low on the back assuming the shockers are empty… I’ve managed to Jump uo and down on the back to kick in the air filling to self level but has seemed to of gone back down to how it was. This is a 1998 4.0 V6 auto.

My question is would it be best to change the shockers to New self adjusting ones? Or is there anything else I need to check and try?

TIA
 


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Blown

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Metta

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I went with Monroe. They make an air adjustable shock and a shock with a coil over, both of which will lift the saggy rear of your X. I chose air to be able to air-up for heavier loads. They are less expensive than stock replacements: 1995-2001 Ford Explorer Rear Pair Auto Leveling Air Shock Absorbers | eBay

My thread has both front and rear air shocks listed: Front Air Shocks

This thread discussed both styles of shocks: Monroe Load-Adjust or Air Shocks for rear?
Thanks for the prompt reply, what would you say would be best for mine? It drops at the back and as said I don’t even know if the pump or air is actually working correctly the shocks do look original and worse for wear now tho.

I want slightly lift he front and back in time maybe 3’’ eventually so would the air shocks work as they should at higher lifts?

I’ve been told to open all doors and close them and it kicks the pump in but it didn’t. I did jump up and down on the toe bar tho and that seemed to kick it in.
 




Blown

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It is likely the shocks or air lines are leaking and sounds like the compressor runs when it wants to.

The air adjustable shocks are short enough for stock and do extend far enough for a 2" lift. 2" lift allows you to run a 1" larger radius tire , so it lifts it 3". The 2" torsion bar twist and rear lift shackle is they way to go for 3" lift.

The air shocks require you to run the little air lines, set-up a shrader valve to air them up, keep-up with the shock pressure like a tire, and it could leak.
The coil overs would lift it, you have no air lines, no checking air pressure, no leaks, but no adjustability.

I went with air and have had no leaks.
 




Metta

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It is likely the shocks or air lines are leaking and sounds like the compressor runs when it wants to.

The air adjustable shocks are short enough for stock and do extend far enough for a 2" lift. 2" lift allows you to run a 1" larger radius tire , so it lifts it 3". The 2" torsion bar twist and rear lift shackle is they way to go for 3" lift.

The air shocks require you to run the little air lines, set-up a shrader valve to air them up, keep-up with the shock pressure like a tire, and it could leak.
The coil overs would lift it, you have no air lines, no checking air pressure, no leaks, but no adjustability.

I went with air and have had no leaks.
I think I’m toying with keeping the stock air setup. Would you suggest to change all the lines too and compressor? Or is there any way to check for leaks?

Before I Chuck all the parts at it I’d like to know if it’s either the compressor air lines or the shocks? The shag really annoys me

Also how should the compressor
Work? All the tome? Jisy it only worked when I jumped up and down on the tailgate if you have any advice for me in the above mate be appreciated
 




donalds

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Most of us just put regular shocks on it
That's what I'd do omo
 




Metta

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Most of us just put regular shocks on it
That's what I'd do IMO

What shock would you advice? And will they sit level with the front without droop?

And would they work with a suspension lift bud?
 




donalds

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What shock would you advice? And will they sit level with the front without droop?

And would they work with a suspension lift bud?
I would think that you can order standard stock shocks from rock auto or something
 




Blown

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I nor anyone would know what's leaking without looking at it, doing some testing by spraying with soapy water to find leaks and some testing of the compressor and switch/actuator.
The expense of replacing the compressor, lines, and stock air shocks is why most just go with the coilovers.
If you want a better ride and adjustability, It is relatively easy and less expensive to run new lines and install air shocks as I suggested. I can't help with replacing all the stock stuff.
If it's sagging in the rear it need some more spring or air to get it level with the front.
 




Metta

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I nor anyone would know what's leaking without looking at it, doing some testing by spraying with soapy water to find leaks and some testing of the compressor and switch/actuator.
The expense of replacing the compressor, lines, and stock air shocks is why most just go with the coilovers.
If you want a better ride and adjustability, It is relatively easy and less expensive to run new lines and install air shocks as I suggested. I can't help with replacing all the stock stuff.
If it's sagging in the rear it need some more spring or air to get it level with the front.
I do think air shocks is how I want to go personally. So I’ll do some tests and see what I need to order.
 




christen 55

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hey there

the air-assist shock system is a load levelling set up....it doesnt keep the truck level (stop sagging) when not pressured and under load..that would suggest a rear spring problem ??.the leaf springs hold it up , the shocks dampen the bounce and the air-assist levels the truck under load..the compressor should only kick into life when a heavy load is place either in the back of the truck or hooked to the towing hitch...the rear shocks are poorly designed and the rubber airbags are notorious for hardening/cracking/leaking...you can disable the system manually by switching it off...switch is located inside the left panel card at the rear of the truck next to the tailgate...there are two load sensors on the chassis ( like the bubble on a builders level ) which automatically activate the compressor...I got rid of the air-assist shocks at the rear for a coilover/load assist shock set up...joined to old two air lines together and left the system "on" so the light on the dash wasnt lit up all the time or upset the computer system...havent had any troubles with it at all and have had many heavy loads both in the back/on trailers and it still doesnt sagg or whalo when driving ...did mine back in 2017...this is my experience ....hope this helps...cheers
 




donalds

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I'd just install helper shocks
Example
1634416512187.png
 












Toby Bear

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Hi guys,

So the back end is sitting low on the back assuming the shockers are empty… I’ve managed to Jump uo and down on the back to kick in the air filling to self level but has seemed to of gone back down to how it was. This is a 1998 4.0 V6 auto.

My question is would it be best to change the shockers to New self adjusting ones? Or is there anything else I need to check and try?

TIA
Hi Metta

Shocks don't set ride height, springs set the height. Shocks keep the vehicle from bouncing down the road. Your springs are over 20 years old their arc probably has softened. Replace the springs and your ride height should be back.
 












Mbrooks420

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A spring shop can re-arch your springs.
 




Metta

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A spring shop can re-arch your springs.

I'll have to find out where in the UK can do these and I'll get them removed. If that's what they do may be better than £500 for two springs :)
 


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Blown

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I think you got every option now. IMHO, slap on air shocks, inflate to desired ride height, and done. That is the least expensive and easiest way to make-up for older springs, by adding some spring back with air!
 




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