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Rear Shocks/Struts - Alignment Needed?

MNgopher

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City, State
Lakeville, MN
Year, Model & Trim Level
'21 Explorer XLT
As the year draws to a close, the '07 Explorer decided to throw me another repair job. When I put the snow tires on last week (finally!), I found the drivers rear shock leaking enough oil to start dripping onto the ground. Had to have started in the last month, as I was just back there before Thanksgiving replacing the drivers rear ABS sensor.

In any event, while weighing out whether to tackle this myself, I called a few shops to get estimates. After those calls, I have quick-struts on order, due to be delivered tomorrow.

All three shops mentioned the prices included a required alignment. My question is: Is an alignment actually required? I am only doing the rears. Complete swap of strut/shock and springs.

Not a huge deal if I do need the alignment. I'm still coming out waaaay ahead! (The quick struts were $250 for the pair (Monroes) shipped, and I was quoted a low of $750 to a high of $950 for this job at the shops)
 
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Flag Gibby

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2006 Mountaineer AWD
Yes, the new shocks/struts/springs will change the alignment and it will need to get adjusted back into spec.
 
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michael loibl

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maywood, new jersey
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2006 EB V6 & 2020 XLT
Please follow up with how you make out with the quick struts. I'm considering doing the same on my explorer. Also, did your listing ask with or without third row seating? I have heard there are different springs for the rear, so I would imagine different part number for the quick struts.
 
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MNgopher

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'21 Explorer XLT
None of the quick struts I looked at had any differentiation between non-third row and third row seating. Ford does list different springs.

Decided in this case that I was not concerned about the difference given how little my third row seating actually gets used...
 
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MNgopher

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City, State
Lakeville, MN
Year, Model & Trim Level
'21 Explorer XLT
Finished this job yesterday. Not too bad to do, especially once I decided the three bolts at the top were going to be cut out with the sawzall rather than chase the rusted threads all the way off...

It did lift the ride height in the rear by about 1 1/2 inches when it was all said and done. Similar to my F150 when these were used, and after about 6 months, it returned to near where it had been.

The sticky at the top of the page was helpful too, though the pictures are gone.

Biggest trouble spot I had was getting the knuckle to separate from the lower control arm. Figured out that using a bottle jack I could push it out of the way so I could step on the lower control arm and remove the unit. Same trick to put it back in - just move up and down to get the bolt holes to line up.

Shop carefully - I saved a boatload shopping online versus buying local... about 50% less.
 
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