Rear shocks with coil spring assist for a 2nd generation Explorer. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Rear shocks with coil spring assist for a 2nd generation Explorer.

jasonXLT2000

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Joined
January 21, 2011
Messages
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City, State
Milwaukee, WI
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 XLT, 4x4, 4.0L, auto
I've been reading several threads on this site that I've found helpful. I fixed the lean and sag on the back end of my 2000 XLT by switching the leaf springs left to right and installing Monroe Sensa-Trac load adjusting shocks with overload springs (part #58617).

Does anyone know of a good monotube shock with this same feature? I'd like to add some performance for future offroad use.

sensatrac_loadadjustshocks.asp
 



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I have them and love them.
 






If you want monotube shocks, and plan on doing offroading, you are probably better off getting some small lift shackles to compensate for the leaf spring sag instead of the load assist shocks.

Warrior products makes the WAR153 for the Explorer, which lifts the rear 1.5-2 in. or so, which you can compensate for in the front with a torsion twist and an alignment. This will give you a bit of lift, perfect for off-road and if you like the looks.

Otherwise you can get shackles that lift less in the rear so you can leave the front at stock height. The Warrior WAR123 shackles are made for a YJ, but are the correct width for Explorer leaf springs as well. They have 1.2" holes so will need to be drilled out to 9/16", along with 14mm or 9/16" hardware as well. You can also get universal make-your-own shackle kits at most auto parts stores, or even have some made from steel plate or flat bar.
 






Welcome to this forum! I've moved your thread into the shocks, suspensions, and lift kits section.
 






Thanks for familiarizing me with the various subsections of this forum. Actually, I was already planning to do all those things. I've put various questions into Google, and boom, I'm always directed to a thread on this forum that answers my question perfectly... Now I'm going the direct route, posting right on the site.

I plan to get the WAR153s (w/ front TT) and set of BFG T/A KO 265/75 16 tires.

Even then, I'm gonna leave the springed sensa-tracs on the back until it's time to replace them. Height isn't the only issue; I also want stiffness added to the 11-year-old leafs. Monotubes (like KYB Monomax (... I just put KYB Gas-a-just on the front, by the way) would increase dampening, but not add "bounce," as it were.

I'd like to get both: the higher performance dampening of the monotubes with the added "bounce"/stiffness of more spring strength.

When the sensa-tracs reach their life expectancy, and if I have the $$$, I may just get a whole new set of rear leafs and monotube shocks.
 
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Is there an add-a-leaf that will fit a 2000 XLT? And if there is, how does it fit in the stack without removing the original clamps/brackets that hold the leafs together?

Also, when I removed the leaf springs to switch them from left to right, I did some examining for future reference. I noticed that the "bolt" or "stud" in the center of the leaf pack was not removeable (or it didn't seem removeable to me). There is a hex head on the bottom side, but a circular stud on the other. (This is the stud that fits into the rear axle assembly, keeping the whole shebang aligned.) How would I disassemble the stack without cutting this bolt/stud? I hit one with PB Blaster and got the whole thing to spin, but not loosened. (Maybe I could grasp the center stud with some monster channel locks. but this still leaves the question of the brackets that hold the stack together. Will the add-a-leafs come with new clamps/brackets). Any thoughts?
 
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91-01 use the same leaf packs(Sport Tracs as well), the only diff type are the mono leaf sports.

New hardware is included with the purchase of a new add a leaf. You have to take the leaf packs apart somewhat to install the new leaf. A mini sledge will knock the old stud bolt out. The head of the bolt is what goes into the perch on the axle. The new hardware should come with a couple diff size diameter bolts, use the one that most closely matches the stock one. They are also longer in length, you can cut them shorter after they are installed if you want.

I would go get a 10-12" length of brake line and bend an "S" shape in the middle of it, then add it to the drivers side junction. This will eliminate you breaking your stock line from the added height when flexing the axle.
 






I would go get a 10-12" length of brake line and bend an "S" shape in the middle of it, then add it to the drivers side junction. This will eliminate you breaking your stock line from the added height when flexing the axle.

Oh that's good. I wouldn't have thought of that till after the fact. I'll keep this trick in mind for when I at some point in the future get to lifting mine.
 






Thanks. All good to know. Could anyone post a link (or write a brand/part #) of a 2nd generation compatable add-a-leaf. I'd like to know what specific product has worked for people.
 






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