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Rear side window center track question

koda2000

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If no one knows has the answer to this, I guess I'll have to take apart the other rear door to figure it out.

The PO of my ST torn apart (literally) the driver side rear door's window mechanism, left it in pieces and threw away the hardware. I'm in the process of removing the regulator, which I'll probably need to replace, due to the damage he did to it. The motor is fine by the way. I've been studying how the window is supposed to work and think I have it figured out.

My question is regarding the center track and how it works with the glass mount piece. Upon examination, it appears to me that the glass mount has to slide up/down vertically on the center track. Is there supposed to be some sort of nylon piece that goes on the glass mount? It looks like it would slide on the sides of the center track. I can probably straighten out the damaged glass mounting piece with vise-grips. If so, does anyone know it this nylon piece is replaceable? It looks like where it would go is bend down on one side, where the PO tried to lever out the center track. What a freaking mess he made!

I can post a link to some pics if that helps.

TIP #1: If you have to bent and break stuff to remove it, you're doing it wrong!

TIP #2: If you're going to take something apart, leave the hardware in the vehicle so you don't loss it!
 



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Can you compare it to the opposite door. Should be simular. Dave p.
 






Can you compare it to the opposite door. Should be simular. Dave p.

Yes, I know can compare it to the other door. I said I as trying to avoid having to take apart the only fully functional door on the truck.

It doesn't matter. I've figured it out and yes there is supposed to be a white nylon slide attached to the window mount. I found pieces of it stuck in the drain hole in the bottom of the door.

I got the regulator out with out any problem today (and without shedding any blood). I believe the regulator can be straightened and the small black slide piece reattached (though the arm is bent to **** and there's only one screw left holding the motor on). According to photos of new regulators, the arm should be pretty much straight. if necessary, a new regulator is only around $45, a good used one even less. My bigger problem is the bent window mount bracket with the missing nylon slide. Even if I find a used window mount, I don't want to remove my glass. I see no choice but to remove my window and mount from the truck, straighten the bent bracket, removing the nylon slide from a replacement bracket by drilling out the rivets and riveting it to my bracket, then figuring out the correct sequence of reassembly.

Pics of what I found and my temporary solution to hold the glass closed below.

The center bracket found loose inside the door. If the PO could have figured out how to remove it, it would be missing.
115_0038_zpsscg7zkjv.jpg



The bent regulator arm.
115_0037_zpskhdwjbqm.jpg


The bent window mounting bracket w/missing nylon slide (a bit blurry).
115_0041_zpsyloea7zx.jpg


The empty, somewhat chewed up inner door.
115_0042_zpshqhnyeco.jpg


The temporary support to hold the window closed. Yes, know I should have used pressure treated lumber.
115_0043_zpstgbtqjo9.jpg


The only other thing I did today was to replace the HVAC control light bulbs. Had 5 acres of grass to cut and it's shopping day.
 






It's a good thing you picked it up for so cheap with all the work you've been doing to it and all that still needs to be done. I'm still weary of taking my lock mechanism apart in my driver door and here you are taking everything out of yours haha.
 






It's a good thing you picked it up for so cheap with all the work you've been doing to it and all that still needs to be done. I'm still weary of taking my lock mechanism apart in my driver door and here you are taking everything out of yours haha.

Well, I don't mind doing the work as long as I can keep the costs down. So far I'm only out about $75 in fuel pump related parts, and it did come with 3/4's of a tank of gas in it. If I had to pay someone to do all the diagnosis and labor it wouldn't be worth it. I enjoy working on cars and diagnosing/fixing problems. I guess it's the old computer programmer in me. I always liked the process of debugging software.

The lock actuator doesn't look to bad to replace. It's held in with a rivet that you can knock the center out of and then drill the head off of, but as I understand it you don't need to actually remove the bracket that the actuator sets in. I think I've read where the bracket can be spread open and the plastic actuator swapped. All four doors use the same actuator with a removable rod that is either long or short, depending on whether it's a front or rear door. I say go for it.

I've got several spare lift-gate actuators, but don't think the can be used in the doors because the rod can't be changed. I need to replace the lift-gate latch in my XLT and one of my Mountaineers, but that job is major PITA, so I keep putting it off. You have to remove the entire latch mechanism bracket to change the actuator because it has a hook on the end of it that can't be unhooked otherwise.
 






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