Hi 2many:
Yes, I am.
Another reason to avoid a 2nd swaybar is that the torsional stiffness of the bar goes up proportionally to the diameter^4. A 1.25" diameter solid bar (like EE) has 4.1 times the torsional stiffness of the stock 0.88" diameter one. So, if you add a stock bar to your EE one, you'll increase the torsional stiffness by another 25%. If you add a 2nd EE bar, it will increase by 100%. Or, you could switch to a 1.50" bar (if there were such a thing) and have the same 100% increase. So, adding a 2nd bar is a very inefficient way to add roll stiffness, even if it is cheap. (sorry - I can't turn off the engineer thing)
A more realistic option that might not be so much work would be to shorten the ends of the EE bar. If you put a spacer block between each urethane mount and the rear axle, moving the bar toward the rear, and fabbed a new attachment to the bar ends closer to the center of the bar, it would increase the stiffness. I can't say how much stiffer it would be without taking measurements, but it would be proportional to the distance you moved them in - i.e. if the arms were half their original length, the bar would be twice as stiff. This is the same principle behind adjustable swaybars used on some track cars.
Again, I repeat that as rear roll stiffness goes up, it tends to promote oversteer, which for a topheavy SUV can be dangerous. If you do any of the above, do so at your own risk.
Regards,
John.
