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Rear Switch won't lock doors, will only unlock doors!

RiccoFX

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Have a 1995, which has a rear switch at the back for the doorlocks, for locking and unlocking doors, but it seems it'll only unlock the doors, but will not lock them! I have checked the switch and confirm that it is working correctly, it is grounding out the Pink/Yellow and Pink/Green wires accordingly, but seems like somewhere along the wiring there is a break or is it setup to not "lock" if it senses something falsely? Both the drivers door and passenger switch works fine, just the rear switch will only lock. Worse case I can route the "LOCK" wire from the switch to the main doorlock control relay in mounted in the rear, but just wanted to make sure if maybe it won't lock if something is opened like a faulty door switch or something in the doorlock module? All door switches and tailgate and rear window switches are working...
 



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budwich

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tons of posts.... you have the standard "rotted splice" in the left rear passenger cable raceway. some posts have pictures on what to look for and how to fix.
 






SoNic67

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You made me curious. Used the (useless) search function with the words suggested and turned up this thread and a few similar in the archives (with similar answers from you). Never found those "tons" of posts with pictures.
It's a forum, not a wikipedia... people tend to ask questions, not "search" something that they don't know what it can be!
 






budwich

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yep... you're right... my "tons" of posts search reveals only two pages... that was on the first search, a lot of them with specifics about a splice issue. Its a forum but with a very useful search. I suspect its the same argument that people used about dictionaries... how can I use a dictionary to find out how spell a word when I don't know how to spell the word in the first place....:)

further to the original post... after going thru some of the posts and looking at the schematics therein, your problem doesn't appear to touch the "splice area"... :-( your solution of running another wire is good but perhaps just taking a look to see if the existing wire is actually still connected at the relay might be a good first step.
 






SoNic67

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I think you are having a different "search" than me... All the posts that I get (red links means I did look in them) are about you saying that "that's the standard rotten splice issue, search for it"...
Nothing really about fixing it. Useless...

search.png
 






budwich

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Oh... you mean that I should have "spoon fed" you with the exact words to use... me I just used "door lock splice"... :) lucky I didn't say "that *&^%$ splice that ford put in a *&^% stupid place" ... you probably would have found a lot of useful information and pictures.
 






bobflood

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Have a 1995, which has a rear switch at the back for the doorlocks, for locking and unlocking doors, but it seems it'll only unlock the doors, but will not lock them! I have checked the switch and confirm that it is working correctly, it is grounding out the Pink/Yellow and Pink/Green wires accordingly, but seems like somewhere along the wiring there is a break or is it setup to not "lock" if it senses something falsely? Both the drivers door and passenger switch works fine, just the rear switch will only lock. Worse case I can route the "LOCK" wire from the switch to the main doorlock control relay in mounted in the rear, but just wanted to make sure if maybe it won't lock if something is opened like a faulty door switch or something in the doorlock module? All door switches and tailgate and rear window switches are working...

According to the schematic, grounding the pk/yel wire should operate the "lock" relay. Since both the switch and the relay are at the back of the vehicle just a couple of feet apart, the pk/yel wire probably doesn't go thru the crappy splice area. First, make SURE that your switch is putting a ground on the pk/yel wire when you press "lock." Maybe unplug the switch and put a ground directly on the pk/yel wire thru the harness plug. Second, test for continuity on the pk/yel wire from the switch plug to the lock relay. Since everything else is working, highly likely one of these tests will identify your issue.
 






SoNic67

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Oh... you mean that I should have "spoon fed" you with the exact words to use...
I don't need nothing, I don't have the problem. I just thought that is rude your tone, that's all.
We are heare to talk, help, not to tell peopl eto "search". Especially when they might not even have an ideea WHAT to search for in the first place.
Instead of copy/paste that "secret" link, you prefer to admonish people for "not searching".

Don't like how forums are working (people communicating information), get yourself a blog....
 






RiccoFX

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First of all I have tried to use the "search" method by typing what I was trying to look for, ie: "Rear Doorlock switch not locking" and alot came up that was irrelevant what I was trying to find out, and most didn't help me at all. How would I have known about the "rotted splice" without even knowing about it in the first place, until you mentioned it, and all you would had to say was maybe search or look under "rotted splice" would have been all I needed and would have been more helpful!

Yes, the switch is sending a (-) ground signal coming from the switch, and I have also forced a ground signal right at the pink/yellow wire, does not do a thing. I don't think its a splice issue since its higher up in the rear quarter panel and the main doorlock relays are only a foot or so away from it, unless somehow the switch wiring runs all the way up to the front first (maybe to a control module) to sense say key in ignition or something to prevent it from locking, then maybe it could be a splice issue.

I guess I would have to trace the actual wire down to where it runs to, but then again I might just jump it directly to the main doorlock relay and say heck with it it'll lock regardless! ;)

I also have the Haynes repair manual, and the funny thing is, there is wiring diagrams for pretty much everything, the engine, the lights, but NOT doorlock circuit diagram! If I had that I would know right away where the actual switch is going to and if it is going through some sort of control module first or directly to the doorlock relays... it seems kinda weird for it to break within a foot of the main doorlock relays if it is tied directly to it!
 






budwich

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As I SUBSEQUENTLY suggested, check the connection at the lock relay where your wire is terminating.
 






bobflood

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I also have the Haynes repair manual, and the funny thing is, there is wiring diagrams for pretty much everything, the engine, the lights, but NOT doorlock circuit diagram! If I had that I would know right away where the actual switch is going to and if it is going through some sort of control module first or directly to the doorlock relays... it seems kinda weird for it to break within a foot of the main doorlock relays if it is tied directly to it!

Go here - great source of info and they are very good w Ford wiring diagrams.
Auto - Online Repair Info
http://search.ebscohost.com/
ID: rrcc
PW: rebsco

Follow prompts down to Wiring Diagrams.

PS - On my 97 EB, the schematic shows a direct connection from the rear switch to the lock and unlock relays. Remember, however, that these are schematics rather than wiring routing diagrams so they may not reflect physical routing. As a next step, I would check continuity between the rear switch harness plug and the lock relay harness plug.
 






RiccoFX

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Thanks Bobflood, thats very helpful! Since you say your schematic shows it directly connected to the relays than thats all I needed to know! I can make it lock directly at the relays. I just thought maybe for some reason it went to a control module first that would prevent it from locking if say the key was in ignition or something maybe, but now I know that is not the case and that it is connected directly so that leads to a break in-between the two, which is odd for being such a short distance!
 






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