Rear timing chain question with pic

[2000StreetRod]

balancer bolt & flexplate

Have you loosened the balancer retaining bolt yet? If not, you may want to use the flexplate, a chain and some bolts and washers to keep the crank from turning when you loosen the balancer bolt. If you already have the balancer bolt loose then the flexplate has to come off before you can mount the block on the engine stand.

This photo is how I removed the flexplate bolts. The same method works for the balancer bolt.

 

[adambant]

Thanks dale. I ended up just removing the flexplate and the engine is now on the stand in my garage. I did not remove the balance bolt yet but i think i can get it the same way i did the first time in the truck, giant C-clamp and a piece of the old serpentine belt in the grooves as a buffer.

I have accepted reality and the obvious. It was just a mite over ambitious to think i'd have the engine back in the truck today. But i am making progress, slowly.

I just finished getting my self all set up in the garage. got my laptop on wireless on the one bench with a chair and everything

Just got TDC, now im gonna pull the pulley and get started on stripping things down to the chains. We'll see how the time goes if i get farther than that tonite. I certainly don't want to rush this part of it.

Ill post pics later of the engine removal later.

Adam.

 

[2000StreetRod]

#1 on compression

Make sure that #1 is on compression stroke when your crankshaft is at TDC.

 

[adambant]

I used a compression gauge on #1 spark plug to see that was on compression stroke. TDC. Got the valve covers off, timing cover is now off. Now im standing here looking at it, a little intimidated as i know this part is important.

I purchased and am going to replace both front and rear chains and cassettes. Does it matter wich one i start with? And do i need to retime/torque both times, when each front, and then rear guides are replaced? I know it probably seems like a dumb question but i just want to be sure i dont bend any valves etc..

Going in for a quick dinner at this point.

Thanks!

 

[2000StreetRod]

right cassette first

You should time the right cassette first and then the left. Follow the procedure at this link: Cam timing procedure using OTC-6488
I assume that you have the OTC-6488 timing tool set.

 

[adambant]

Update for the nite.

Thanks for the link Dale. Was most helpful. Good news is the motor is now 100% in time with new front and rear cassettes. Still have to finish putting the timing and valve covers on and lower and upper intakes (i pulled the lower to do the gaskets again cuase i think it was still leaking). Looong day and im ready to crash, Ill post the pics i took from the day.... Im to tired to go into to much detail right now, but it wasn't to bad overall, just very time consuming.


All hooked up and ready to pull with my custom engine hoist/bar setup.

Closer pic of the bar and chain setup. Its a engine/trans support bar that i bought and used to swap the trans back when i had my 93 volvo 850.

Me, proud of my progress so far.

My dad wanting in on the photo and apparently he thinks he has "some captain" in 'em lol

Engine-less bay

My dads actually clever way of rigging up the trans so i could still work under it to get all the bolts out. Just a metal beam resting on the front shaft, going under trans and sitting on a bottle jack. Speaking of the trans i did the top bolts from the access panel under the console, much better way i think!

My garage/office

another angle

 

[adambant]

By the way, i know the engine is very crooked on the hoist. My dad was very adamant about not using both headers and to lift from 2 corners......well there ya go dad. Will not go back in that way as im sure you would imagine

 

[2000StreetRod]

Nice going!

It must be tough working outside in the cold! Since Sunday night we've had some of the same white stuff on the ground here in Greenville, SC. By the way, last month I bought a 96 850 turbo wagon for $825 as a project to make some money on. The engine hasn't run in over a year after a head gasket blew out. Volvo 850 turbo wagon diversion
Good luck with the cassettes and the reinstall!

 

[adambant]

It must be tough working outside in the cold! Since Sunday night we've had some of the same white stuff on the ground here in Greenville, SC. By the way, last month I bought a 96 850 turbo wagon for $825 as a project to make some money on. The engine hasn't run in over a year after a head gasket blew out. Volvo 850 turbo wagon diversion
Good luck with the cassettes and the reinstall!

Yea it's really tough cause you have to keep taking your gloves on and off to do certain things and trying to stay warm is hard even with warm clothes, and then that whole darkness thing when the sun sets.

Yes I have been following your Volvo project thread since you started it. You do very good work with much attention to detail. My 850 was the non-turbo model. It had 180k miles when i bought it, and i sold it with 260k miles, still ran great, trans was the only problem i had with it at about 210k, wich considering it was the original i found it hard to be that upset about it. Great reliable cars, the OLDER volvos anyways

So, back to ON topic.

Got the motor in the truck tonite, and you'll notice it is MUCH more level as it hangs from the hoist !

Had a reeeaaaallly hard time getting the trans alignment pins and torque convert bolts lined up. Couldnt get the right angle. But after much struggle finally got it.

As it sits now, it is fully mounted to the motor mounts, and has the lower 4 trans bolts in place, torque convert nuts are on and tight. Did everything i needed 2 people for. I will work some more tomorrow nite. I plan and reeeeally hope to work and FINISH it on tuesday as thats my day off, but they are calling for rain/snow We'll see, if its not to crappy out there i will be working on it, im so close now, really want to hear this thing run!

Thanks for all your help!

Adam.

 

[adambant]

Forgot to mention that when i removed the flexplate, the rear main seal was leaking signifigantly, so i replaced that while i was at it. So i guess thats some kind of silver lining to this whole thing. Also, had a spark plug wire fatality on engine removal. It got pinched and cut by the chains...was rather upset about that as they were a brand new set of the bosch wires, 50 bucks! Was much more careful tonite when putting it back in!

 

[adambant]

Success!

It runs!!!! Just finished up outside in the snow Already have almost 2 inches. ANYways. Truck started right up, had a sputter or two wich i assume was fuel pressure building back up, but no rattle and runs smooth as butter.

Got scared for a bit though, I had shut it off to top off the coolant again, and coudln't get it restarted after about 20 minutes and 3 or 4 tries. Then on the last try, i just put the pedal to the floor and then it slowly came to life and then smoothed out.....seems fine after that, have done about 10 restarts and driven about 15 miles with no re-occurence. I think the alternator bearings are going south, started making a weird buzzing/rattling sound, eerily similar to the timing chain rattle a few minutes after it was running. So to put myself at ease, pulled the belt and ran it....whisper quiet engine! Phew!

I took a video of the initial start but can't post it because my "smart" phone is actually being quite stupid and wont upload it for some reason, sorry.

I have such a feeling of relief and weight off of my shoulders now. A HUGE thanks to Dale, and everyone else's input, and the site. Incredible resource.

Adam.

 

[KC90]

It runs!!!! Just finished up outside in the snow Already have almost 2 inches. ANYways. Truck started right up, had a sputter or two wich i assume was fuel pressure building back up, but no rattle and runs smooth as butter.

Got scared for a bit though, I had shut it off to top off the coolant again, and coudln't get it restarted after about 20 minutes and 3 or 4 tries. Then on the last try, i just put the pedal to the floor and then it slowly came to life and then smoothed out.....seems fine after that, have done about 10 restarts and driven about 15 miles with no re-occurence. I think the alternator bearings are going south, started making a weird buzzing/rattling sound, eerily similar to the timing chain rattle a few minutes after it was running. So to put myself at ease, pulled the belt and ran it....whisper quiet engine! Phew!

I took a video of the initial start but can't post it because my "smart" phone is actually being quite stupid and wont upload it for some reason, sorry.

I have such a feeling of relief and weight off of my shoulders now. A HUGE thanks to Dale, and everyone else's input, and the site. Incredible resource.

Adam.

Thats awesome! Glad you got your eXplorer up and going again. Im almost there. I guess I know what to expect when I first fire mine up too lol.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Congratulations!

Make sure that your engine doesn't overheat while the cooling system contains air from draining the coolant. Leave the radiator cap loose until the thermostat opens so the air can easily escape. Then add coolant as air escapes. I hope that your Explorer provides many years of trouble free service.

 

[janolsson]

Good work fella, even more so out in the cold.
I also could not have done this without this forum and Dale!

 

[adambant]

video

Managed to get the video from my phone up to youtube. Its nothing special, just a 30 second clip of the initial start up.

(dead link)

Have driven about 200 miles today, so far so good

Now that it runs i can pick up with the rest of the list:

Alignment(tomorrow) after balljoints and tierods i did a few weeks ago
finding/fixing signifigant front end clunk under my feet, suspect front shaft
Remote start install
Shocks
Brakes
Trans, front & rear diffs and transfer case fluids
Im sure I'll find more...

Thanks again guys!

Adam