rear timing chain

[Samb148]

I have a 2000 sport with the infamous 4.0 sohc. I knew about the rear tining chain issues but the motor ran smooth when I bought it a month ago. What I thought was a lash adjuster going bad has been figured by my mechanic as a bad rear timing chain tensioner. It has 143,000 mile and needs body and suspension work so I'm not sure its worth the money to have the motor pulled and the new gear put in. Anybody just keep driving theirs with a bad tensioner/ cassette? Any ideas how long I could get away with just driving it?

 

[koda2000]

I have a 2000 sport with the infamous 4.0 sohc. I knew about the rear tining chain issues but the motor ran smooth when I bought it a month ago. What I thought was a lash adjuster going bad has been figured by my mechanic as a bad rear timing chain tensioner. It has 143,000 mile and needs body and suspension work so I'm not sure its worth the money to have the motor pulled and the new gear put in. Anybody just keep driving theirs with a bad tensioner/ cassette? Any ideas how long I could get away with just driving it?

it's impossible to say when it will die, my daughter bought our first Explorer with it already rattling. it showed 129k on the ODO, but i know the truck had more miles than that on it. it ran another 40-50k (with regular oil changes) before dying, at which point we scrapped it and replaced it with a V8. the only way i would have considered repairing it was if the body and interior were in good shape (which they were not).

 

[Samb148]

I think I'm leaning that way and just driving it. It needs shocks and axle seals and body work so I'm not interested in doing the chain since I can't do it myself.

 

[Bobmbx]

I think I'm leaning that way and just driving it. It needs shocks and axle seals and body work so I'm not interested in doing the chain since I can't do it myself.

Its a roulette wheel with tensioners and guides. My ST was running fine w/245k on the odo, then on a road trip from VA to Boston.....rattlerattleratttlerattle...oooh....look honey, the oil pressure is going up and down....and down....down.....down......done. In less than a mile, I went from scooting along just fine to FORD (Found On Road Dead).

The plastic guides had disintegrated and small pieces got sucked up into the oil pump. It never moved on its own power again.

I got $900 for it.

 

[Samb148]

I think I am going to at least change the front cassettes and tensioner. Not to change the subject but anyone ever do the front axle seals in a 2000 sporty?

 

[DjDom]

I think I am going to at least change the front cassettes and tensioner. Not to change the subject but anyone ever do the front axle seals in a 2000 sporty?

Front axle seals are easy if you get an axle seal puller.
Just take the wheel off, undo the axle nut, pull out the CV axle, and go for it.
I found it easier to just take the spindle off the ball joints since I was replacing those at the time. Gives you much more room to work.

 

[Samb148]

Good deal. Thanks DJdom

 

[rb142]

I think I am going to at least change the front cassettes and tensioner.

It's your truck, but why would you do that? It isn't going to help the rear chain problem, and it will just be money wasted when the rear one lets go. If you don't want to fix the rear cassette, then don't spend any money on it and drive it until it blows.

 

[masospaghetti]

If its just the tensioner and not the guide, you can pretty easily replace it. Only the guide requires motor removal.

Are you sure the guide is bad, or is it just the tensioner?

 

[Dave98XLT]

If you want to make the chain last as long as possible, run Mobile1 5w30. And do you have any CD's by Gordon Lightfoot?

 

[Samb148]

The tensioner is fine. As are the cassettes. It was an oversight by what used to be my trusted mechanic. He never looked into the problem. He heard the noise and assumed. After 500 miles and some MMO, she purrs like a kitten again. Rb142, I don't know about Michigan but here in Pa we have to have vehicles inspected. Vehicles won't pass inspection here without those items I mentioned being in working order. Not to mention, the whole vehicle is worth about $2,000 and I'm not gonna pay 3/4 of that amount to keep it running. Thanks fellas

 

[Bobmbx]

The tensioner is fine. As are the cassettes. It was an oversight by what used to be my trusted mechanic. He never looked into the problem. He heard the noise and assumed. After 500 miles and some MMO, she purrs like a kitten again. Rb142, I don't know about Michigan but here in Pa we have to have vehicles inspected. Vehicles won't pass inspection here without those items I mentioned being in working order. Not to mention, the whole vehicle is worth about $2,000 and I'm not gonna pay 3/4 of that amount to keep it running. Thanks fellas

What was the problem, and how was it fixed?

 

[Samb148]

Bombx, I had my oil changed at an express place and the y used a cheap ass filter. A couple days later it started what I thought was making a stuck lifter noise. I saw the filter and changed it, put some sea foam in it but nothing changed. Took it to the mechanic an he told me what I mentioned in the post above. I got it back and was still skeptical so I changed the oil and filter again and dumped some MMO in it and voilà, quiet.

 

[X~FACTOR]

Mine gave up at a pristine condition at 87k. I bought it brand new and babied it until to that point. Cost me $5,000 to replaced it (labor and parts). Now I drive the crap out of it. Still going strong, nearing 150K.

 

[HereComesHowell]

Mine gave up at a pristine condition at 87k. I bought it brand new and babied it until to that point. Cost me $5,000 to replaced it (labor and parts). Now I drive the crap out of it. Still going strong, nearing 150K.

You paid $5000 to get the timing chain's replaced..........

 

[X~FACTOR]

You paid $5000 to get the timing chain's replaced..........

$5000 included a new remanufactured engine.

 

[HereComesHowell]

$5000 included a new remanufactured engine.

Oh makes sense I'm about to say I changed my timing chains myself cost $300