Rear Upper Ball Joints? Can they be pressed out?

[forcemac]

Is it like the front ones where it is said they need a new control arm to replace the upper ball joints?

I am getting ready to do the rear bearings, and after having done the front bearings and ball joints (did the whole control arm up front), i am wondering if I should do the rear upper ball joints too. I am overseas with my 02 mountaineer, and I am little worried about nicking the rear upper ball joint boots in the process of the wheel bearing. I found some upper ball joints at RockAuto (moog K500109)...but no picture. There are a few threads here saying you have to do the whole arm....but there was one fella who pressed out his fronts.....I can't find any evidence to say the same for the rears....just a several threads saying i need new arms to get the ball joint....should i believe these Moog K500109 are the actual rears and not a mis-labeled item?

 

[rdop02xlt]

While I can't say that the Moog K500109 won't fit, all my research led to replacing the entire rear upper control arm when I tore the boot replacing the rear strut/spring assemblies. I ended up putting on an energy suspension replacement tie-rod boot. To add to the misery everyone I called said the rear upper control arm is a dealer-only part. The balljoint you found may be for the sport track which is replaceable.

 

[pet575]

I can't help you with your specific question but I can tell you that the fronts do NOT require a new control arm. I have pressed out the front upper ball joints myself with the hand tool-it was easy. I can't imagine why the rears would be any different.

Sorry I can't help you more about your specific parts questions.

 

[sethmorgan]

I can't help you with your specific question but I can tell you that the fronts do NOT require a new control arm. I have pressed out the front upper ball joints myself with the hand tool-it was easy.

I have also done this. Not too difficult.

 

[dpost01]

DO NOT BUY THE K500109!!!

I just posted my troubles with trying to do the rear upper ball joints. The stock ball joints lay flush with the control arm. The Moog ball joints sits about 1/4" above the ball joint plus the height of the grease fitting. If you have the stock 16" rims and you try to install this ball joint, you will rub the inside of your rim and waste $100. Save yourself some trouble and just buy the control arm and ball joint together.

I just bought two new rear control arms from a guy on Ebay. Here is his listing for your truck. I am not sure if he will ship overseas or not.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-MO...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

[xplorerguru]

DO NOT BUY THE K500109!!!

I just posted my troubles with trying to do the rear upper ball joints. The stock ball joints lay flush with the control arm. The Moog ball joints sits about 1/4" above the ball joint plus the height of the grease fitting. If you have the stock 16" rims and you try to install this ball joint, you will rub the inside of your rim and waste $100. Save yourself some trouble and just buy the control arm and ball joint together.

I just bought two new rear control arms from a guy on Ebay. Here is his listing for your truck. I am not sure if he will ship overseas or not.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-MO...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I know this is 2 years later but didn't want to start another thread. But I see moog makes a non greasable version that is same size as the stock BJ. So you were able to press them out and back in???

 

[xplorerguru]

Ok went ahead and tried using MOOG Part # K500169. The rear uppers are able to be pressed out and I did it with the control arm still in the car.

 

[houptee]

Yes the rear Moogs or other brands can be pressed in on the car with a C Clamp type press tool. I used one from Harbor Freight and got the Moogs from Amazon which had the best prices and free shipping also did the front and rear sway bar links Moog brand from Amazon also.

 

[dajoes90]

Ok went ahead and tried using MOOG Part # K500169. The rear uppers are able to be pressed out and I did it with the control arm still in the car.

Sorry for recover this old post but i'm preparing to do both rear upper ball joints this weekend. Any tip for do it with the control arms still in the car?

 

[coops310]

About to try the rear upper ball joints myself thus glad to have seen this thread which above says it can be done without buying a new control arm! (getting knocking while breaking which I think might be the worn bushings which have obvious play with the pry bar). It is mainly the bushings that are shot but best to get it all done.

On the front I had recently replaced the front and rear bushings plus ball joints on the lower control arms instead of buying new arms. Was a lot of extra work doing this instead of buying new control arms, but a ton of money saved. Thus yes can be done in my experience despite the manual saying they are not serviceable. For the front upper control arms just bought complete arms, but got the cheaper moog series, thus if the ball joint goes too soon will just do the ball joint again next with the greaseable K series ball joint. My ride is an '03 Explorer Eddie Bauer V8 4WD with 17'' rims. Have been driving it since highschool when my parents picked up new then signed it over to me when I needed a family vehicle 10 years later.

 

[fullmonte44]

You could use an air operated chisel. To get the ball joint stud out of the knuckle, you need to use a chisel and spread the slot a bit. Put the chisel just above where the pinch bolt goes through. After removing the pinch bolt of course. I could not reach it when I was removing the hub for a bad wheel bearing, so I pulled off the toe link from the center-just one nut- and with the axle shaft also removed from the hub, I could then turn the whole knuckle to the side, giving access to the ball joint's slot. Use lots of penetrating oil, and just spread the slot a little with a chisel. Then it makes it much easier to tap the upper ball joint stud out of the knuckle. There is also a slot and a pinch bolt for the toe link on the knuckle-if the link needs to be removed.

 

[coops310]

I did the same when doing the rear wheel bearings. Was definitely a key step in disconnecting the knuckle from the upper control arm, where with the toe link and half shaft out one can rotate the assembly and have better access to drive a chisle in to spread the pinch joint. Hoping this time I can get them out with out doing this, since I am discarding the ball joint and can be more aggressive with the separating tools, and it has been 2 years since they were last apart and not 12. Also, when I did the bearings I put some grease on the ball joint shaft with hope of easier future disassembly. I thought this was ok since the bolt locks the stud by passing through a groove in the shaft and it is not just held in place by the pressure from the pinch joint. Would be interested if anyone things it was a bad idea to put grease/or anti seize on the shaft considering it is a pinch joint. Nonetheless it has held for 2 to 3 years until it is now when it is time to do the upper control arms.

 

[Jayshredsguitar]

If anyone searches this through google or on this site I’m going to help you!!!! As many have done for me. The moog k500109 will fit 17 inch rim explorers only. K500169 will work on 16 and possibly 17 as well. I talked to moog and performed the job with the 109 on
My 03 explorer with factory 17 rim. Word of advice. As you press it move your upper press die back and forth if you get more gap on the front side vs the back. Loosen drive rod and smack die towards side with more gap when even center die back up. made a big difference. Check that ball joint flush with .015 or .002 feeler gauge should be no gap obviously. Oh ps. White washer that comes in kit goes between bj boot and spindle and yes you have to use the lock tite that comes in kit. Apply it on balljoint body portion pressed into arm. Let cure before you let car down and load suspension. good luck with zerk fittings do not overtighten and if u have to force them in Do Not take them back out! Hope this helps someone!

 

[DHart]

Ok went ahead and tried using MOOG Part # K500169. The rear uppers are able to be pressed out and I did it with the control arm still in the car.

Hello xplorerguru,
My name is Daniel Hart I have 04 4x4 xlt lifted and done right lol aftermarket front upper arms and quick lift shocks woth spacers, you say you pressed out rear upper ball joints? They will come out huh? Also I removed my
Knuckle to replace bearings and noticed my ball joint had some up and down movements not very much maybe 1/16 of an inch, is that bad ware? I feel after I tighten it and weight if the truck it’ll last for a while longer at least or ware my bearings and tires out lol! Just don’t have the money to replace right now the boot is gone too destroyed i keep grease in it and cleaned out bit dumb question I need to replace it lol! I do all my own work I never really got learned on ball joints though. Did you use a ball joint press kit?

Thanks
Dan