Rear Wheel Hubs/Bearings

[Newbomb Turk]

OK, so it's rear wheel bearing replacement time. Between Timken and SKF, which would you choose, and why? In my searches on here, these seem to be the most recommended brands.

Also, has anybody had any luck getting the bearings in the hub like Bignosdaddy describes here: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=443455&highlight=skf&page=2 ?

 

[mbrando1994]

I've always thought Timken to be the best. I've just always used them and haven't had any issues thus far.

As for pressing it, I would definitely use a shop press since you want to do the job professionally. This will minimalize chances of failure/error when the bearing is installed and driven on.

 

[TechGuru]

Don't count out KOYO. Never see any though...

I hear SKF uses Timken...

 

[Number4]

Timken ONLY makes roller style bearings. Everything else Timken, is offshore crap. You pay the name and get white box product. The rear hub unit sold under SKF IS a Timken bearing, just look at it. I don't know who makes the hub portion of the rear bearing.

Go with either SKF or Timken branded on the rear, same thing. So whatever's the better deal. If you buy their value line, it won't be the same quality product.

Have a shop press them. Ask how many Ex's they do. If none to a couple, go else where. Don't want them screwing up the knuckle.

 

[stonerhino]

I just put in SKF's. This job is a freaking impossible without a 20T hydraulic press.

 

[TechGuru]

I just put in SKF's. This job is a freaking impossible without a 20T hydraulic press.

I was hoping a 12 ton would be enough...

 

[Number4]

I've had shop guys that had to use their 65 ton presses.

 

[TechGuru]

I've had shop guys that had to use their 65 ton presses.

Are we talking removing original well rusted ones here? Mine have been replaced before so they should not be too bad. None are loose yet. My left rear just makes a faint hum around right hand curves. My more immediate problem is replacing my rear differential. Once I can get rid of that loud gear noise then I will be able to better hear other things.

 

[TechGuru]

Timken ONLY makes roller style bearings. Everything else Timken, is offshore crap. You pay the name and get white box product. The rear hub unit sold under SKF IS a Timken bearing, just look at it. I don't know who makes the hub portion of the rear bearing.

Go with either SKF or Timken branded on the rear, same thing. So whatever's the better deal. If you buy their value line, it won't be the same quality product.

Have a shop press them. Ask how many Ex's they do. If none to a couple, go else where. Don't want them screwing up the knuckle.

Any idea what Mercedes uses? 300K and original bearings are still fine...

 

[Number4]

The work was done here in Georgia, so I'm assuming the vehicles weren't rust buckets. It may not have needed the full 65 tons, but the 20 ton presses weren't getting it done.

The issue with the Explorer bearings is that they aren't robust enough for the vehicles weight. Put the same bearings on a vehicle that weighs 1k lbs less and they'd probably be just fine. IMO.

 

[TechGuru]

The issue with the Explorer bearings is that they aren't robust enough for the vehicles weight. Put the same bearings on a vehicle that weighs 1k lbs less and they'd probably be just fine. IMO.

So why can't anyone make some that are...

I'm starting to wonder if there are other bearings out there with the same dimensional specs that would fit.

 

[Number4]

So why can't anyone make some that are...

I'm starting to wonder if there are other bearings out there with the same dimensional specs that would fit.

I was wondering what it would take to make the six lug, F150 hubs work. Would you have to make the knuckle work?

Or would the five lug F150 hubs work without modification and are they any better?

 

[Newbomb Turk]

Thanks for the info guys! Rock Auto has the Timkens for $14 less so I guess that is what it will be.

 

[TechGuru]

Thanks for the info guys! Rock Auto has the Timkens for $14 less so I guess that is what it will be.

Where are you seeing this? Looks like $3 difference to me.

I would get the SKF, was just looking at some "Timken" on EBay and the photos show "F.A.G KOREA" on them!

 

[Newbomb Turk]

I was looking at hubs/bearings.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

Timken ONLY makes roller style bearings. Everything else Timken, is offshore crap. You pay the name and get white box product. The rear hub unit sold under SKF IS a Timken bearing, just look at it. I don't know who makes the hub portion of the rear bearing.

Go with either SKF or Timken branded on the rear, same thing. So whatever's the better deal. If you buy their value line, it won't be the same quality product.

Have a shop press them. Ask how many Ex's they do. If none to a couple, go else where. Don't want them screwing up the knuckle.

Local shop says they probably do at least one a month. Chuckled when I told him I was going to do it myself.... The guy said $50 or less per side to press the bearings into the hub.

 

[TechGuru]

Why does the hub need replacement? Unless it's bent it's a waste of money IMHO.

 

[Number4]

I'd replace the hub. Not the knuckle obviously. The hub can get out of round pressing it. Then you won't know until it's back on and wobbles. At which point you get to pay another $50 and have certainly spent more than you saved.

Ford used to require the hub be replaced and have only recently said otherwise. Saving $ gets the job I suppose.

 

[Number4]

[MENTION=241447]Newbomb Turk[/MENTION], call your local Ford and see if they do it in house, or farm it out. Where I'm at, multiple Ford dealers send it to one NAPA Machine shop.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

[MENTION=241447]Newbomb Turk[/MENTION], call your local Ford and see if they do it in house, or farm it out. Where I'm at, multiple Ford dealers send it to one NAPA Machine shop.

Thanks. I'll check with them.

I want to do the hub and the bearing so that I can take the new hub and bearing to get pressed and have them ready to put on when I am able to do the work, as this is my daily driver.