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Rebuilt 5.0 valve train noise


KingstonX

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Hello Everyone My name is Travis Blades, I have a 1998 ford explorer 5.0. I just rebuild the Engine, Trans, 4406 T-case Swap, and rebuilt the 8.8 rear end. Ok so on my engine i can hear my valves ticking at any rpm and at any temp. The engine has about 1.5hrs on it now. I was wondering if this is normal and it has to break in more? I let it run for 30mins and kept the rpms between 1k-2k then i changed the oil and drove it around town for an hr. Engine specs are
Comp Cam 266hr Roller cam
Comp cam lifters
Comp cam push rods
Comp Cam Double springs.
Stock 1.6 rocker arms
Stock intake and headers (torque monster headers soon)
Computer is updated to 2001 but otherwise stock (Tuning coming soon)
Compression is about 9.5:1 Running 91 octane atm
3:73 gearing

Also it seems to lack a little bit of power i thought it would be faster, I got 0-60 at 11 secs. I think the ticking would be from the stock rocker arms, they looked ok but they have 290k miles on them. I torqued them down to 20ft lbs when the valve was closed. I Torqued them all about 5 times at different cam spots. Push rods are the same length as stock. And i have no vacuum leaks. Timing Should be prefect, Dots aligned up perfect. What do you guys think would cause the ticking and power loss?
 

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Turdle

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miles on them Push rods are the same length as stock.
Usually a custom grind or aftermarket camshaft requires longer push rods. Contact the camshaft manufacturer for their recommendation.



Also you will need to get a rocker arm pedestal shim kit to achieve the correct valvetrain geometry


I think the pushrods are slapping which will make a lot of racket, and, in turn the valves will not be opening nearly as far as they should.
 


KingstonX

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Ok so the push rods i got came in the comp cam kit They looked like the same size as stock. My rocker arms are non adjustable stock ones, i would need to buy a shim kit and put them under the rocker arms? Am i causing any damage by running the engine?
 


Turdle

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Ok so the push rods i got came in the comp cam kit They looked like the same size as stock. My rocker arms are non adjustable stock ones, i would need to buy a shim kit and put them under the rocker arms? Am i causing any damage by running the engine?
Using adjustable rocker arms this would work, however, you need to adjust with rocker arm length,and shims, I am almost sure.

I am going to move this thread in the hopes someone else will chime in to confirm

Here are the shims

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6529-A302/
 


KingstonX

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Ok cool ill pull the valve covers, set #1 to TDC and check the pushrods, ill loosen the bolts then set them at 0 lash. Then Torque them to 17ft lbs, it should take 1/4 -1 turn if its more then 1 turn i should put a shim under it and try it again? Thanks for your help. I just put my Flowmaster 50 on it and just a turn down for now and got it smoged, stock cats with 290k on them and they passed smog with no problem :) The engine seems a little rough does not miss or anything. Maybe its just the bigger cam.. Need to check the Fuel Pressure soon to see if its ok, im sure the pump is tired

Thanks again!
 


KingstonX

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Ok here is an update, just pulled the valve covers, set to tdc, loosened the bolt for the intake rocker arm, set to 0 lash, then re-torqued it took about 11/16 of a turn to get to 17ft lbs, went to the exhaust side, did the same thing and it took about 5/8 of a turn. Then went to cylinder #3 and #2 and then # 4 making sure they were all set to tdc, they all were the same amount of turns to get to 17 ft lbs. Ok so no shims should be needed. What else could be causing this ticking noise, it sounds like its coming from every cylinder. My valve to piston clearance is over .030, Also using stock rocker arms with .533 lift, could that be causing it?

Thanks for the help in advance :)
 


KingstonX

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bump :) ok i put a few shims only on the passenger side intake valves nothing else needed it. Put everything back together, Gapped my spark plugs to .054ths
Started the truck, still a little rough idle and every valve seems to be ticking, but it may just maybe the cam? rough idle is probably because the cam and stock computer

Well if anyone else has any ideas what would cause this ticking noise i would like to hear them :)
 


Turdle

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you need to measure for pushrod length. I tried telling you already .

The shims are just creating more "slop" at this point.
 


KingstonX

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Ok i will next time i dig into the engine, i checked my valve geometry by putting marker on the top of the valve stem and turned it over, the rocker arm was riding perfectly in the middle. My bad ill check my push rod length ounce i get my adjustable push rod
 


Accarguy

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What was your fix for this? as I am having the same issue after putting in the same cam.
 


VR4

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What pushrods did you use? I needed to go longer with mine to get proper preload. I would have to check my notes to remember the size but I did test fit with stock rods as a curiosity and there was no way they would have worked.
 


CDW6212R

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The altered cam(valve) lift changes the geometry of the valvetrain, which is about the angles of the pushrods, to rockers, to valves.

Ideally the best geometry is when the rockers have equal angles to the pushrods and to the valves, at mid valve lift. The common method to accomplish that is to adjust the pushrod length so that the contact pattern on the valve tip by the rocker, is centered. That works and it's not hard to do. You have to have a way to alter the pushrod length for testing the valve tip pattern. That's what an adjustable pushrod is for.

The noise isn't from the rockers being stock, it's the geometry of the rockers/pushrods/valves not being quite right. It could be loose, or too far to either direction causing touching of the rocker arm bodies to the pushrods or valves. Don't push it until you figure out what it is and how to correct it.

You can do it differently with shims under the rockers(to find the best pushrod length(or not change the pushrods and do it with the shims(not a good idea(weaker as the rocker isn't as securely attached)))). It's harder but shims can be used instead of an adjustable pushrod, to find the best geometry, but the point is to find the ideal pushrod length(buy those and remove the shims which were for testing). It's also tougher math to do the shims and then figure out what the pushrods should be.

Roller rockers will inherently be louder also, don't upgrade to those unless they are really needed, and you expect the greater noise. They are just noisier.
 


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