How to: Remote crank control installation

[2000StreetRod]

This post describes my installation of a remote push button starter motor crank control.

WARNING: My installation of this device defeats the safety features associated with the Transmission Range Selector and the Clutch Pedal Position Switch. Activating the starter motor when the clutch is engaged or the transmission is in gear will result in vehicle movement and possible injury. Duplication of this device installation is at your own risk.

CAUTION: My installation of this device allows starter motor activation with the ignition switch in any position including Off and the engine running or not. If the starter motor is activated while the engine is running damage may result.

I purchased a Lisle Remote Starter Switch (part number 20750) shown in the photo below left.

It is a push button momentary contact switch that comes with attached leads and alligator clips shown in the photo above right. Since my installation is to be permanent I cut the wires at the alligator clip connections and removed the boots.

I disconnected the ground cable from the battery negative terminal.

Then I released the Battery Junction Box mounting clips identified by the red arrows in the photo below.

This allowed access to the wires protruding from the bottom of the box as shown in the photo above.

I tied the box in a vertical position (as shown below left) to facilitate identifying the desired wires and attaching the push button leads.

Using a trailer type clamp on connector I attached one lead to the tan/red wire coming from the +12 volt side of the Starter Motor Relay energizing solenoid as shown above right.

Note: There are multiple yellow wires at the bottom of the Battery Junction Box. There is a location drawing inside the Battery Junction Box cover that can be used to determine the position of Fuse 5.
Using a trailer type clamp on connector I attached the other lead to the yellow wire coming from Fuse 5 (50 amps) that is hot at all times as shown in the photo below left.

I reinstalled the Battery Junction Box in its mounting clips.

I reconnected the ground cable to the battery negative terminal.

I cut a length of foam pipe insulation to keep the remote control in position when not being used as shown in the photo above right.

 

[KC90]

Sorry for a 4 month gravedigging. This interests me because of my '76 F150.

Isn't this just another way of kinda disabling the Neutral Safety Switch? I had to take out the NSS in my 76' because it would not start in any gear, or shift outa park for that matter. Starts like a dream now. Strange tho not having to press the brake or even have the key in the ignition to shift.
Also why did you install the switch if you dont mind me asking?

 

[2000StreetRod]

more fexibility

The switch allows me to crank the engine anytime the battery is connected. On my Sport, just bypassing the Transmission Range Selector and the Brake Pedal Depressed switch would still require positioning the ignition switch to Start.

The reason I installed it was to be able to rotate the engine with the starter with the ignition Off. It is very handy when performing a compression test. It is also helpful to position the crankshaft near TDC.

There are times when I may want to measure or observe something under the hood at engine start - such as fuel pressure or vacuum.

 

[snoranger]

Hey Dale, Do you need this often enough to permanently wire it in? Why dont you just use the alligator clips and hook it to the solenoid when needed?

Ive wired underhood starter switches into race cars before, but i've never seen a street car that needed THAT much service to necessitate one permanently wired in.