Remote key fob frequency | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Remote key fob frequency

RedJeep

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July 30, 2007
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City, State
Ohio
Year, Model & Trim Level
03XLT 4.6 & 15 Unlimited
Does anyone know if the factory installed remote control (start, hatch and doors) for a 2015 explorer is the same one that will work on the years 2011-20014 ? I have got conflicting info on whether they all take the same replacement fob. I purchased a new one that said for 2010-2014 and I can't get it to work using the instructions from the car manual. Any info s
as to MGz frequency would be appreciated. the one I bought is 315 MGz.
 



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Doesn't it have to be coded with a tool via the dealer or locksmith?
 






My 2015 Sport Fob came with a tag on it that says 315 Mhz.
 






NA (North American) models are 315mhz and Export Models are 433mhz.

Either you have the wrong one (it should be 315mhz if it has an FCC ID) or you are doing the steps wrong.

You need two existing keys and you must follow the procedure to a "T". I can't stress that enough.

Should also make sure this is an IKT not just a FOB correct?
Jason
 






NA (North American) models are 315mhz and Export Models are 433mhz.

Either you have the wrong one (it should be 315mhz if it has an FCC ID) or you are doing the steps wrong.

You need two existing keys and you must follow the procedure to a "T". I can't stress that enough.

Should also make sure this is an IKT not just a FOB correct?
Jason

The new one is 315MHz and I have followed the procedure exactly six times and it is always the same. It goes thru every step until final where it is supposed to tell me it is done and then I should hit unlock on the new one. Nothing after that and doesn't work. I think the new one is defective, but I wanted to be sure before sending it back. It looks exactly like the originals that came with car. I am really sure I am doing it correctly. Anyway I am following the instructions that are in the car manual. I can't find where I have to have anything done at dealer since I have both originals to use while programing it. I have done the other style on other cars a number of times always with success unlike this one. Thanks for the info.
 






Hold on....what model do you have and what existing keys (IKT or Smart/IA) and what type are you trying to program to it?
 






Okay I read the manual and that is the method for the IA FOB so you have push button start correct? All the indicators happen during the process (start/stop button flashing and messages in the instrument cluster)?

If this is all working and you get the successful program message in the cluster I would honestly check the FOB battery or see if it has a battery in it. In theory if the key did program then placing it in the pocket in the center console and starting it with no other IA FOBs in the vehicle should start it.

If it starts and the buttons on it do not work then I would say wrong FOB or bad battery.
 






Hold on....what model do you have and what existing keys (IKT or Smart/IA) and what type are you trying to program to it?

It is 2015 explorer limited with factory remote. The long one with start, hatch,door locks and panic. I have both originals and the manual that came with the car has the procedure in it. Numbers on the new remote are FCC ID: M3N5WY8609 IC:7812A-5WY8609
315MGz More numbers are CJ5T-15K601-DC Then some more are A2C53426032. That is on the little tag on the key ring. This car does not use a key to start it. Just the push button. There is nothing in the manual that says it has to go to the dealer if I have two originals to program from. Thanks
 






Okay I read the manual and that is the method for the IA FOB so you have push button start correct? All the indicators happen during the process (start/stop button flashing and messages in the instrument cluster)?

If this is all working and you get the successful program message in the cluster I would honestly check the FOB battery or see if it has a battery in it. In theory if the key did program then placing it in the pocket in the center console and starting it with no other IA FOBs in the vehicle should start it.

If it starts and the buttons on it do not work then I would say wrong FOB or bad battery.
I suspected the battery and replaced it. No different but I never tried starting the car with it in the pocket only tried the buttons on the remote. I guess in order to try that I would have to remove the originals from the immediate area I will do that next. I just can't do it until tomorrow.
 






If you want to know for sure the frequency of the remotes and/or TPMS, use the below site; In the vehicle lookup tab, enter your VIN & click find. On the right bottom quarter, there is "Minor Features", click the small square/triangle to expand it & search within for "Frequency". You'll find if it's 315 or 433 MHz.

https://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleSelection.do
 






If you want to know for sure the frequency of the remotes and/or TPMS, use the below site; In the vehicle lookup tab, enter your VIN & click find. On the right bottom quarter, there is "Minor Features", click the small square/triangle to expand it & search within for "Frequency". You'll find if it's 315 or 433 MHz.

https://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleSelection.do

Thanks for that information. That will solve a question that I could not find an answer to.
 






Welcome back RedJeep.:wavey: A little over 6.5 years between posts.;)
Now the thing you have to do is update your profile so that it shows a 2015 Limited, unless you still have the '03 XLT in which case you can add one or the other to your signature.:thumbsup:

Peter
 






Welcome back RedJeep.:wavey: A little over 6.5 years between posts.;)
Now the thing you have to do is update your profile so that it shows a 2015 Limited, unless you still have the '03 XLT in which case you can add one or the other to your signature.:thumbsup:

Peter

OK Will do.
 






If you want to know for sure the frequency of the remotes and/or TPMS, use the below site; In the vehicle lookup tab, enter your VIN & click find. On the right bottom quarter, there is "Minor Features", click the small square/triangle to expand it & search within for "Frequency". You'll find if it's 315 or 433 MHz.

https://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleSelection.do

OK this tells me it is 315 MHz for the my key. Now can anyone tell me what Less Keyed Alike Options means on the build sheet? Does that mean I would have to take it to dealer to program the new Fob? Thanks
 






Unless this refers to options that require a key of their own, I don't have the answer you're looking for but my 2014 MKT has the same notation shown in the list while my former 2011 Ex Limited does not. I also have not attempted to program an additional fob in either one.

Peter
 






Keyed alike is a police/fleet option. Not available on a civilian vehicle therefore it's "less keyed alike"
 






Thanks guys this is very much appreciated.
 






I suspected the battery and replaced it. No different but I never tried starting the car with it in the pocket only tried the buttons on the remote. I guess in order to try that I would have to remove the originals from the immediate area I will do that next. I just can't do it until tomorrow.


To have it remote start, you need to hit lock then the start button 2X
 






It comes done to either the FOB is bad or the process of programming it is flawed. You never said if the push to start button is flashing in sequence and if you get the correct message(s) in the instrument cluster during programming.
 



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It comes done to either the FOB is bad or the process of programming it is flawed. You never said if the push to start button is flashing in sequence and if you get the correct message(s) in the instrument cluster during programming.

The light on the start button flashes as it should and there is never any message on the instrument cluster When I push the start button again within one minute nothing happens. When I push the unlock button on the remote to end programing nothing happens. Start button continues to flash for a period of time and then stops on its own. When I push the unlock on the remote I can hear a faint click somewhere in the rear of the car and that is all there is. Next time I go to start after doing this the factory keypad code appears on the instrument cluster. I have tried programing about 16 times now with always the same result. Had another person read the manual and watch me. She said I was doing it exactly as the book says.
 






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