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Remote start installation 1994 Ford Explorer XLT

tremolite

Member
Joined
February 2, 2015
Messages
12
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City, State
Portland, OR
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 Ford Explorer
I bought an AVITAL MODEL 4103 remote start/keyless entry kit on Amazon and I want to install it in my vehicle. I am having a hard time finding a reliable source for the wiring info. I have the Chilton manual but it hasn't been of much help. This is what I have so far, any corrections or added info would be greatly appreciated.

MAIN HARNESS, 9-PIN
1 (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM N/A
2 (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM REARM N/A
3 (+) IGNITION OUT(TO ALARM) N/A
4 (-) ACTIVATION INPUT N/A
5 (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN LOCKED ??
6 (-) 200mA HORN OUTPUT CAR(YELLOW/LT GRN) / BROWN [STEERING COLUMN]
7 (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT N/A
8 GROUND CAR(CHASSIS) / BLACK
9 (+/-) LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT CAR(BROWN) / WHITE [LIGHT SWITCH OR HARNESS GO THRU FIREWALL]

DOOR LOCK, 3-PIN
1 (-) UNLOCK CAR(PINK/LT GRN) / BLUE
2 N/A
3 (-) LOCK CAR(PINK/YELL) / GREEN

REMOTE START, 6-PIN
1 (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT CAR(YELLOW) / RED
2 OUTPUT TO 2ND IGNITION/ACC CIRCUIT CAR(BLACK/GRN) / PINK/WT
3 SAME AS #1
4 OUTPUT TO ACC CIRCUIT CAR(GREY/YELL) / ORANGE
5 OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT CAR(RED/LT BLU) / PURPLE
6 OUTPUT TO PRIMARY IGNITION CIRCUIT CAR(RED/LT GRN) / PINK

SATELLITE HARNESS, 4-PIN? NOT SURE WHAT TO DO WITH THIS
1 (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT
2 (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT
3 (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT
4 (-) 200mA IGNITION OUTPUT

REMOTE START HARNESS, 5-PIN
1 (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT (NOT GROUNDING/OEM SWITCH OPENS STARTER CIRCUIT)
2 TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE CAR(TAN/YELLOW) / VIOLET/BLU
3 (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE CAR(LT GREEN) / BROWN
4 (-) HOOD PIN SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE N/A
5 (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER N/A
 



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Very difficult to get support from Directed for DIY installation. Just went through this for a Viper 211HV RKE system bought from Amazon. Also, their "lifetime" warranty is only one year unless installed by an authorized dealer. Found this info, hope it helps. GL

:thumbdwn: Due to the complexity of this system, installation must only be performed by an authorized Directed dealer.
http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Viper/N4103V_2009-07web.pdf

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/858.html
http://www.commandocaralarms.com/wiring/1992-1994/ford/explorer/751.html

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3302084&postcount=4
http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html
 












I think it looked more difficult than it actually is, especially for someone who hasn't done it before. But with that ebsco link and the 2 wiring guides I am pretty confident now. I was able to confirm most of the coloring with those two things, and the only difference in the 2 wiring guides is the tach wire but they are just using 2 different locations. Thanks for the info!
 






Constant 12V+ Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Red/Light Blue Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Red/Light Green Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 2 Black/Green Ignition Switch Harness (Blower Motor)
Accessory Gray/Yellow (+) Ignition Switch Harness
Tach Tan/Yellow Coil
Neutral Safety Wire Not Grounding OEM Switch opens Starter Circuit
Brake Switch Light Green Brake Switch
Trunk Pin n/a Works with Dome Light
Parking Lights Brown Light Switch or Harness go THRU Firewall
Head Lamp Red/Yellow (+) Light Switch
Hood Pin n/a
Factory Disarm Dark Green/Purple (-) Driver's Kick Panel
Door Trigger Black/Light Blue Light Switch or Kick Panel
Door Lock Pink/Yellow Driver's Kick Reverse Polarity
Door Unlock Pink/Light Green W/Keyless Entry Negative Trigger Driver's Rear Quarter
Horn Wire Yellow/Light Green (-) Steering Column
Windows Up LF=Red/Yellow, RF=White/Yellow, LR=Gray/Orange, RR=Red/Black
Windows Down LF=Yellow/Red, RF=Tan/Blue, LR=Yellow/Blue, RR=Yellow/Black
 






While I'm not trying to crap on your ideas, do you really need a remote start?

The reason I ask is that unless it's wired properly and done well (soldering and heatshrink, not just crimped connections or twisted wires), it can cause you or the next owner lots of problems when the wiring breaks down. Personally, I wouldn't have an 'authorized center' do it, they're just going to make sure they don't break anything on their end. They don't care much about your vehicle, especially a 20 year old SUV.

If you really need it, don't let my comments slow you down. Just do yourself a favor and wire it properly. Not just red to red, black to black but the physical connection, make it outlast the rest of the car.
 






While I'm not trying to crap on your ideas, do you really need a remote start?

The reason I ask is that unless it's wired properly and done well (soldering and heatshrink, not just crimped connections or twisted wires), it can cause you or the next owner lots of problems when the wiring breaks down. Personally, I wouldn't have an 'authorized center' do it, they're just going to make sure they don't break anything on their end. They don't care much about your vehicle, especially a 20 year old SUV.

If you really need it, don't let my comments slow you down. Just do yourself a favor and wire it properly. Not just red to red, black to black but the physical connection, make it outlast the rest of the car.

The short answer is NO I don't really NEED it, however I really enjoy learning and working on things myself. I have since finished everything correctly minus the door locks which will take a little more time(something about reversing the polarity of the relays). For $40 dollars I can gain remote starting, and remote door locks which is just a bonus I have really enjoyed learning to use a multimeter properly for this kind of application as well as working out what I need and what I don't. Someone has already mucked around with a lot of these wires making it a little more difficult but still enjoyable.
 
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The short answer is NO I don't really NEED it, however I really enjoy learning and working on things myself. I have since finished everything correctly minus the door locks which will take a little more time(something about reversing the polarity of the relays). For $40 dollars I can gain remote starting, and remote door locks which is just a bonus I have really enjoyed learning to use a multimeter properly for this kind of application as well as working out what I need and what I don't. Someone has already mucked around with a lot of these wires making it a little more difficult but still enjoyable.

Hey did you get it going? I got the same project going and could use some help.
 






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