Removing ABS | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Removing ABS

taxx

Make em say Ugh
Joined
June 11, 2001
Messages
4,112
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City, State
Indianapolis, IN
Year, Model & Trim Level
73 EB
OK so some of us have talked about this and those with SAS already have by passed it. My question is on the Master Cylendar there are two outputs that go to the ABS thinga Maggiger, If I bypass that to send one line to my front 44 and one to the rear does it matter wich one is front and which one is rear? Does one output more pressure to the front?
 



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LOL Dave!!! I have a thread out there asking the exact same question. From everything I have gathered, the rear reservoir goes to the front brakes.
 






hmm guess I should try the good old search function some more!
:D
 






Yep, the brake line closest to the firewall goes to the front brakes and the one closest to the front of the truck goes to the rear. Mix em up and you are guaranteed to wreck it fast :p
 






When I started messing with mine, I was putting the rear brakes to the rear reservoir. After I pulled the ABS Module, I found that one of those nipples on the ABS was a perfect adapter converting the rear line to the rear reservoir. I haven't had a chance to see if one of the nipples will converted the rear line to the front reservoir. Hopefully, I will have a chance to check tommorrow.
 






Ya "might" want to think about adding an aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve to the system too. With the change in brakes due to the SAS and the weight difference, it might help.
Also, I know my old Sport was a SOB to brake safely when the antilocks weren't hooked up. Rear end wanted to come around real fast on wet pavement. Seemed like the factory proportioning built into the master cylinder wasn't quite right for a non-abs system.

Just a thought......
 






want to remove mine with stock axles. any one tell me exactly how?
 






JDraper said:
Ya "might" want to think about adding an aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve to the system too. With the change in brakes due to the SAS and the weight difference, it might help.
Also, I know my old Sport was a SOB to brake safely when the antilocks weren't hooked up. Rear end wanted to come around real fast on wet pavement. Seemed like the factory proportioning built into the master cylinder wasn't quite right for a non-abs system.

Just a thought......


Removing ABS would also be a perfect time for installing one of these:

http://www.jamarperformance.com/images/parkloc.jpg
 






yes. Get a NON ABS master cylinder
Bypass the RABS valve on the truck, using the hard lines and setup from a non ABS Explorer, or from a early Gen I that only had RABS.

remove allthe wiring and BS that goes along with it.
You can leave the sensor in the rear axle and the front knuckles.

I hate ABS on these trucks, I was brought up driving in the snow and prefer big time to pump my own pedal, I feel more in control that way.....ABS is good on some vehicles, but IMO it SUCKS on the Gen I's.....
 






Pulling the fuse will give the same effect, am I correct?
 






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