Removing/Replacing OD and Intermediate Servos | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Removing/Replacing OD and Intermediate Servos


EF Tranny Guru
Moderator Emeritus
February 8, 2003
Reaction score
City, State
Sacramento, CA 95827
Year, Model & Trim Level
1992 XLT
In the A4ld and the 4R55 and 5R55 the servos are accessed from the side of the case. In rebuilding they are not the easiest things to get the covers off of, and ON the car with the cat right there they are down right miserable to get off. Now and then I mention a tool, and get a lot of "blank stare" kind of PM's about it - clearly a tribute to the poor job I do describing its, to help better explain it I thought I'd post a couple of pics.

With the trannie case mounted on a stand, vertically, here is the tool secured to the pan rail on the case... you can sort of see the idea, and the empty servo bore underneath


In the red blowmold Rotunda storage case, here is the tool. It comes with longish bolts, I seem to recall using pan bolts instead. Sharp eyes might have noticed the tool is a 1974 issue.... for? C-3. That old heritage shows thru, doesn't it ?


There are a ton more pictures of using it and helpful hints on getting those servo covers off in the A4LD Rebuild Diary.

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I don't have this tool, but I was able to compress these servos with the covers using a "C" shaped welding vice grip pliers. There is just enough room on the inner lip of the case to clamp it on. After it is compressed, all you would have to do is just put back the locking snap ring into the groove to hold it in place, then remove the welding vice grip. Glacier, I was thinking about one thing for a while. Could you make a thread, or possibly a sticky in the tools section with that Rotunda C-3 tool kit that shows a description of all of those pieces in the kit? I saw these kits on EBay with part #s, but without any description of what each one does. It would be a great help to anybody rebuilding C-3 or A4LD.

I think this post, from the A4LD Rebuild Diary Postscript, page 2 may answer that Q.


Precision Tools

I thought this might be a good place to discuss what tools you might want to have available to do your own rebuild... let's start by talking precision measuring tools... here's a more or less full complement (missing feeler gauge and dial indicator and possibly other things)


But while I used all of these, I could have done it with but one. One you can buy these days for $15... that's this...a digital caliper


or a similar one using a dial instead of digital


You need this tool (or others from the list below that can do the multiple jobs it does)

The dial caliper is a good all around tool to own. BUY ONE! Anyway long as we are here let's look at the others. A depth micrometer is a nice tool.... but you can do the same thing in this instance with the dial caliper. Cost fort he depth micrometer? About $40


Micrometers keep getting cheaper and cheaper... for those who cannot read the micrometer there are digital versions.... a set of 3 of these (0-1, 1-2 and 2-3")will cost you about $30


Inside gauges can be nice to check bores for round and for size... cost ? about $20 for a set 0 to 4 inches.


Finally, though you really can do without it, a dial indicator is a nice tool to own for a lot of chores. They can be had now with a mag base for about $25. I only used it to check the torque convertor... and even THAT needed another tool to use as well. They are *nice* to have though... brake rotor runout i where mine sees a lot of use



they come in various versions. This one reads up to an inch of travel... there is also a version that reads plus or minus from a set point (usually .100). At their cost it's nice to have both but if you only buy one, my advice is get the the one shown - 1 inch travel..



These have come a long way. In the old days they were more or less all beam type.... like this:


To read these you watch where the pointer goes to as the handle with the gauge attached bends under pressure... not always an easy thing..


We have come a long ways since then. Dial type torque wrenches appeared, and would indicate the maximum torque on a needle....


then came "click type" where the wrench could be set for a specific torque "micometer style" and it would audibly click when it was reached. These are handy and increasingly inexpensive.. on sale about $20 each. This is the setting part o a 1/4 inch inch pound" torque wrench


Here it is beside the 3/8" drive inch pound dial version


Click style torque wrenches are now coming with other ways to set is a 80 ft lb version of one..


Side by side with the inch pound version


A note.. torque wrenches are more accurate at mid range and above.. using a 150 ft lb torque wrench to measure 10 ft lbs is not likely to be very accurate.

finally, we now have VERY expensive highly accurate strain gauge digital ones... guess what - NO PIC ! <g>

Pick up a 1/4 inch click type that reads in "inch pounds" and you are all set. YOU NEED THIS TOOL.


There is but a single traditional snap ring in the A4LD..on the output shaft. It is down in the case deep and a bztch to get off... anyway here is an assortment of snap ring pliers... This particular set bought off E-bay for $35


One of these was perfect or the job. Anther approach is a combination tool with replaceable tips, and the tool itself can be converted from inside to outside... this one is a Channellock


Now the IMPORANT ONE... the snap ring spreader plier... mine was made by Proto... NAPA ought to have it


here is a closeup of the nose



SPECIALTY TOOLS (Or Trannie tools)

The A4LD is a C-3 with an OD. SO, it should come as no surprise that the tools needed are in fact C-3 tools....first sold in 1974! Here is that toolset


Of these only 1 is a MUST have, and then only if you splt the pump and bellhousing... it is this one...


I found a couple VERY nice to have.... the servo cover tool


and the seal protectors


Other useful things include the reverse switch socket and throttle valve seal driver.... but you can replicate these easily...


an the low reverse gauge tool....


The rest of these tools in the 1974 tool set were not really necessary.

Another tool you will need is a gauge bar, to measure rear case and front case clearance. This tool was first offered by FORD in the 90's.



The good news is.... you can make your own...side by side (details are in the diary)




Another nice thing to have is the factory manual


ATSG has a manual too, though a poor second to the factory manual but easier to come by

(pic coming)

Thanks for posting this information. What is that chrome tool third from the right in the Rotunda tool set on the upper right hand corner, and the black cylinder just under the seal driver, second from the right? Also, what is that long bent bar with the split "hoof" on the end? By the way, I have that Ford book, and I looked up what the positions those lip seals are supposed to be in. The lips are facing away from the spring cushion area.

If you go by my explaination you will never go wrong. It is kinda intuitive about lip seals. As for the tools... silver thing I dunno. the long bar with the split hoof... I have a contest. A Rotiunda Mouse Pad for the first person to tell me WHAT THE HELL THAT TOOL IS FOR ! Yep, no clue. The two seal drivers and the funny thing in the middle (seal remover) are for 2WD.

Here is a description of the Rotunda tool kit off of an EBay listing.

Rotunda Ford C-3 transmission repair tool kit as used in Ford dealerships. Kit number is T74P-77000-A.

All tools are T74P
77548 A and B
77404 A
77028 A
77001 A
77902 A
77248 A and B
77052 A
77193 A
77498 A
77247 A
77190 A
77030 A
77103 A,B,C,D, and H