Removing timing cover on 4.0 OHV

[masospaghetti]

Hey all

I've been reading previous posts on this subject and some people said that, to remove the timing cover, the engine had to be removed; others say that the oil pan has to be removed; some say that the harmonic balancer needs to be removed. What is correct? I really don't want to mess with the harmonic balancer or oil pan and obviously don't want to remove the engine but i have a slow, insidious leak that appears to be my timing cover gasket. 4.0 OHV, 2000 Ex, 138,000 miles.

BTW, is it me or does the placement of the coolant passage seem like a bad location??? Very easy to have oil and coolant mix.

Many thanks...

 

[snoranger]

The balancer MUST come off. It goes through the timing cover.

You dont need to pull the pan. There are a few bolts that go through the pan and attach it to the timing cover, they have to come out.

You dont even have to remove the water pump from the cover to pull it, but it makes it easier. (none of the water pump bolts go into the block.)

 

[fast_dave]

'98 Sport 4X4 w/ 4.0 OHV w/ 165,000 Miles.

I'll start off by saying the original water pump and the gasket surrounding the water pump is dry - so that's not my a source of my coolant / antifreeze "weeping" problem.

OK - at the end of this past summer, my Sport started to get coolant / antifreeze "weeping" from the Timing Chain Cover. It started on the drivers side, directly surrounding the area between the front of the engine block and the timing chain cover which would house the water port. The trail starts there, and follows the engine block straight down to a bolt on the oil pan, where it forms a single drip. Tonight I performed a closer inspection, and see that the timing Chain Cover Water Port on the passenger side has started to weep - but no trail yet going down the block to the oil pan - yet...

So I've been investigating how to repair this, and see that there is two methods - on vehicle OR pull the engine.

I'd like to repair ON VEHICLE, but I see that there are two issues. If either of these two issues come up while working on the engine inside of the engine compartment, it could require that I wind up removing the engine.

OK - so here's my concerns.

* The first issue is that the bolts that connect the timing chain cover to the block can rust, and can break off inside of the engine block. This would be a ***** to repair inside the engine compartment, compared to repairing with the engine removed.

* The second issue is the oil pan gasket. Specifically, the section of the oil pan gasket that is directly UNDER the timing chain cover. My concern is when you remove the timing chain cover, I imagine that this section of oil pan gasket can get messed up.

Upon close (external) examination with a flashlight, it looks /seems that the factory used a grey RTV silicon sealer in addition to a oil pan gasket in this immediate area, under the timing chain cover.

Question: Does anybody know what this section of oil pan gasket is made out of (rubber coated metal or cork/rubber or cork)? Is the oil pan gasket a one-piece design OR it a two-piece design gasket, with the section under the timing chain cover meant to be replaced when the timing chain cover is removed?

I know that this is a German engine and that the Germans did/do things different - hence my detailed questions. After 5 years of turning wrenches on this particular engine, I'm still getting used to all the Teutonic differences ;-) I'm also in California and the summer heat here has a reputation for killing engines. I want to nip this in the bud before this summer because I know all it can do is get worse, and quite possibly blow the gasket, pushing coolant into my oil...

Thanks for any and all replies -
Dave

 

[snoranger]

Yes the timing cover can easily be removed with the engine still in the truck.
Yes there is a chance of the bolts breaking in the block, but its a chance you should take. It they brake, pull the rad to get more room to work on it.

The oil pan gasket is a 1 piece rubber gasket. Dont worry about it.
I did knock down the sharp corners (where the cover, block, and oil pan meet) of the timing cover slightly and silicone them.

I just looked at the timing cover. (The motor is no longer in the truck, so it was easy.) I did lightly silicone the entire pan gasket, for peace of mind. i dont know if its needed.

When reassembling, I would start all the pan and cover bolts before tightening any of them. Then install the water pump, if you removed it.
5- pan bolts
11- cover bolts
12- waterpump bolts (You dont need to remove the waterpump from the cover. none of the bolts go through into the block.)

 

[Dono]

I changed my cam, timing chain, and gears with my 4.0 ohv still in the truck. Snoranger is right, its a pretty simple thing to do.

Taking your fan blade, and balancer off will be the hardest part. You will need a strap wrench to hold the motor in place to loosen the balancer bolt.

I'd probably pull the rad, as that's really easy to do also(You already drained the coolant anyway). It will save you some swearing.

Leave the water pump attached to the timing chain cover. No sense disturbing it if you don't have to. I'm still on my factory pump.

And yes, when the timing cover goes back on, use some rtv at the corners of oil pan to timing cover after cleaning the oil up in the area.

 

[98Ranger4.0]

New here.. 98 Ranger XLT, 4.0L OHV, 4x4

I'm going to do this task after the new year. I've got the Ford factory manual ($30 at a garage sale!), I'm checking with my mechanic friends to see if they have a three bar engine support. I really have to change the oil pan gasket out too. If I can't find one, then it's just going to be the timing cover.

I know that the timing cover gasket can be done without removing the oil pan and just RTV the pan when putting the timing cover back on. But if I'm going to have it open and fluids drained, then I might as well fix everything the first time.

 

[Dono]

New here.. 98 Ranger XLT, 4.0L OHV, 4x4

I'm checking with my mechanic friends to see if they have a three bar engine support. I really have to change the oil pan gasket out too.

I'll be interested in how changing the oil pan gasket goes. Keep us updated. I don't think its very easy on 4x4.

 

[jackandcharlie]

I changed my cam, timing chain, and gears with my 4.0 ohv still in the truck. Snoranger is right, its a pretty simple thing to do.

Wondering if anyone can recommend a DIY video or picture tutorial on how to best and easiest do this job. After a 1200 mile drive I found the timing cover is leaking coolant and want to know if I can do this with a small supply of tools - all mine are at home in the garage. Or, assuming I keep the coolant topped off, do you think I could make it home, around 520 miles?

I think I just need to replace the timing gasket and maybe water pump.

 

[fast_dave]

I was going to do a write up, but I won't be doing this until after Christmas and before new years.

My timing cover gasket started weeping coolant on the drivers side a few months ago, and so far it hasn't leaked enough to leave even so much as a drip of coolant on the garage floor (knock on wood). FWIW, we've even had a few days that it's been in the high 80's. That being said, I don't know how much your gasket is leaking ;-)

If it's not bad, I think you're safe to drive home 520 miles - not to mention to do this properly you'll need a harmonic balancer puller, the "proven" one with bolts long enough to do the job coming from Harbor Freight tools, as well as a strap wrench:

http://www.harborfreight.com/46-piece-bolt-puller-set-37824.html

And, due to all the labor involved to tear down the engine and cooling system, you really should replace the water pump. New BOSCH Water Pumps are $37 (no tax/free shipping) at Amazon (at least for my application).

My advice - take it easy on the drive home

 

[jackandcharlie]

Thanks Dave, it just started leaking a week ago and is finicky at best. Sometimes it will leave a puddle, other times nothing and most of the time something in between.
Since it started, Ive put less than 1/2 gallon of coolant.

Im in Salt Lake and home is Boulder, CO so at least its cold and only a couple mountains to go over on I-80. I thought it would be a bit more complicated than a set of sockets, screwdrivers and rags. I think Ill take a chance and drive home - AAA can save me if I need it.

Thanks for the heads up on the tools and water pump - saves me some time and Ill get them ordered.

Ive noticed some slight oil leaking from the valve covers - would it be that much more work to dig into the top of the engine at the same time?

 

[fast_dave]

jackandcharlie - just to confirm and keep the thread consistent, what engine do you have in your Explorer?

If it's a 4.0 OHV like mine - you'll need this water pump:

Bosch 98094 New Water Pump
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZIHN6/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details

Timing Chain Cover Gasket:

I also believe that just like replacing the valve cover gaskets, a good part of this job will be proper surface preparation so that the job is successful and will not leak over the long term. Must haves: Gasket scraper, wide and thin new wire brushes, BIG can of carb cleaner, CLEAN rags, and Permatex Ultra Copper (LISTED BELOW). REMEMBER, you not only have to clean up both sides of the timing chain cover, but also the engine block AND the top part of the front of the oil pan gasket. This is easily a full day project to do it right. Maybe even 1 and 1/2 days...

Valve Cover Gaskets:
I've done this twice on my OHV (they're good for about 80,000 miles before you start seeing & smelling oil) - and to put it mildly, is a pretty big job.

You can easily spend 3+ days from start to finish - that is if you want to do it right the first time and not lose parts (or your mind).
This second time I took a full 4 days due to the fact that I "cleaned up" a lot of other things while I was in the thick of it - I had 165,000 miles and performed a lot of wire re-taping on the, re-routing, cleaning engine compartment grime. I'm in it for the long haul so look at it as necessary maintenance to the long life I'm looking to get out of my Explorer - at least 300,000 miles. ;-)

You need to remove hood, air cleaner assembly, mark all vacuum lines, tie off a/c compressor, clean off all the oil and grime, disconnect tube from EGR to Upper Intake Manifold (a *****), remove upper intake manifold BEFORE you even get to the valve covers. That's the short version and it takes at least a day to get all this done if you're doing it meticulously (marking up the various vacuum and electrical lines AND zip lock bagging small parts and marking up the bags) so that you can get everything back together w/o leftover parts...

HTH -

PS - I LOVE this stuff. No need to buy anything else as you can use it on everything - diff covers, valve covers, thermostat housings.... To prevent leaks, I use this on BOTH SIDES of the valve cover gaskets, Permatex® Ultra Copper® Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker:

http://www.permatex.com/products/au...mum_temperature_rtv_silicone_gasket_maker.htm

 

[Dono]

****. All this timing cover talk, and now my water pump squeals like a banshee when cold and grinds when warm.

Doh!

Against my better Judgement, I'm gong to try a reman cardone pump.
I want to purchase the tensioner, pulleys, and belt at the same time. This is the only pump that ships from the same location. Why do I feel like I'll be replacing the pump again in a year?

Anyway, the balancer can be a troublesome to get off. The bolt is torqued to yield, and the manual says to replace it instead of reinstalling. Holding the harmonic balancer in place with the belt wrench to loosen the bolt isn't all that easy. In fact, I'd say if you get that part done, the rest is very straight forward and easy.

 

[fast_dave]

****. All this timing cover talk, and now my water pump squeals like a banshee when cold and grinds when warm.

Sounds like the bearing is on the way out - soon the seal will let go as the shaft wobble wears it out.

Doh!

Against my better Judgement, I'm gong to try a reman cardone pump.
I want to purchase the tensioner, pulleys, and belt at the same time. This is the only pump that ships from the same location. Why do I feel like I'll be replacing the pump again in a year?

Ahhh - talking about "the same location" sounds like you're dealing w/ Rock Auto. I started out with them 5 years ago, but for the past two years I've been using Amazon. Rock Auto began advertising pretty heavily in newspapers and magazines, and soon after I experienced their prices have gone way up. I obtain part numbers from Rock's, and cross check them on Amazon & ebay. Amazon has been getting the order more often than not - and quite often has free shipping. Ebay has been running a close second. ALSO - I click through The Adam Carolla Podcast to get to Amazon, and Amazon donates a portion of my sale to the podcast - keeping it free for me to listen to.

Anyway, the balancer can be a troublesome to get off. The bolt is torqued to yield, and the manual says to replace it instead of reinstalling. Holding the harmonic balancer in place with the belt wrench to loosen the bolt isn't all that easy. In fact, I'd say if you get that part done, the rest is very straight forward and easy.

30 years ago my auto shop teacher drilled into my brain the following; "Don't work for the tool, let the tool work for you" - slip a "cheater pipe" over the strap wrench handle, and let it come round until the pipe wedges/tensions against the floor, and the strap is tensioned around the balancer. My auto shop teacher had little "sayings" for everything automotive related. ;-)

HTH -

 

[snoranger]

30 years ago my auto shop teacher drilled into my brain the following; "Don't work for the tool, let the tool work for you" - slip a "cheater pipe" over the strap wrench handle, and let it come round until the pipe wedges/tensions against the floor, and the strap is tensioned around the balancer. My auto shop teacher had little "sayings" for everything automotive related. ;-)

HTH -

Or do it the easy way. Put a socket and breaker bar on the bolt. Wedge the breaker bar against the frame. Crank the engine.
Let the starter do the work for you.

 

[Dono]

Nice!

Thanks guys!!!!

snoranger, I had actually thought of your method, but that meant I would actually have to think about which way the motor cranked, against which way the bolt spins on/off.
So, your method works for removal, Correct?

Fast Dave, your method works for bolt installation then.

I love this site.

 

[Dono]

The problem I have with Amazon, is they rarely ship to me in Canada. I find I do great with rockauto (Compared to Canadian parts prices) as long as I need a bunch of items and have them shipped from the same location.

 

[98Ranger4.0]

Picked up a timing cover gasket set, an oil pan gasket and timing gears/chain/tensioner and guide set for under $100.

 

[jackandcharlie]

Made it home and getting ready to tackle this project. Ordered the puller from Harbor and looking into the water pump you recommended. Is the oil pan/gasket easy to replace? I've read in some threads its a cinch, in others they've had to loosen the engine. Mine is leaking so I just as well take care of that while Im down there, sure hope its easy. Not feeling too motivated.

jackandcharlie - just to confirm and keep the thread consistent, what engine do you have in your Explorer?

I have a 4.0 OHV 4x4 for clarification.

Picked up a timing cover gasket set, an oil pan gasket and timing gears/chain/tensioner and guide set for under $100.

Where did you find all this?

 

[98Ranger4.0]

Got my parts through Auto Zone. I didn't replace the oil pan gasket or timing chain. I was having problems with starter and just replaced timing cover gasket. It's not that difficult, just remember to change your oil after you replace the timing cover gasket

 

[fast_dave]

OK - so I started the timing cover gasket replacement project on my 4.0 OHV (with water pump replacement as well since I'm already deep into the guts of the cooling system).

So far I have one 6 hr day and (2) 4 hr days into it - but I've removed the radiator, and have compressed air "pressure flushed" the engine block of anti-freeze/coolant. In short, I've done this by pressurizing the heater lines at the heater control valve, after removing the radiator. pressurizing the heater lines blasted the coolant out of the lower radiator hose into a catch pan. So far so good - I'm rather impressed if I do say so myself ;-) The full write up will have all of the dirty details, as the only thing I hate more than Anti-Freeze on the floor (and myself) is brake fluid, hence the extra effort to get it all out before removing the water pump and timing cover....

So far, I just wanted to report that Snoranger's trick for getting the crank bolt off worked great!

Details: The crank bolt is 3/4". Utilize a 1/2" breaker bar with a tight fitting cheater pipe, ensure that the cheater pipe sits ON TOP of the Drivers Side Frame section. Then, disconnect the wiring loom at the ignition coil so the truck won't start, secure the breaker bar to the crank nut and frame by holding one hand on the 1/2" socket extension from the breaker bar to the 3/4" socket, and the other hand on the handle of the breaker bar/cheater pipe. You'll need to hold the "arrangement" in place or else it'll all just fly off when you bump the starter motor. Have your significant other bump the ignition key and the crank bolt will easily break free!

Oh - in addition to the four bolts holding the fan clutch to the water pump, the fan clutch is ALSO THREADED to the nose of the Water Pump!!!! You will need a strap wrench w/ a cheater pipe on it and a BIG (wide jaw) crescent wrench (JAWS OPEN to AT LEAST 1 1/2" - one and one half inches) to detach the two parts from each other. Haven't seen anything about this so I figure I'll let you know so that you can get the appropriate tools '-) I have never seen an arrangement like this - ever... This arrangement is "standard threaded," meaning lefty/loosey to detach the fan clutch from the nose of the water pump.

OK - This is NOT a job for the easily pissed off OR weak hearted ;-)

BELOW is a picture of the threaded fan clutch and the threaded water pump - talk about over engineering!!!!