How to: - Replace Body Mount Bushings with the Daystar Kit KF04009 | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: Replace Body Mount Bushings with the Daystar Kit KF04009

Brian1

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This is a how to thread on replacing the stock body mount bushings with the Daystar Kit KF04009 AND reusing the stock hardware without destroying it. I will not be focusing on removing the seats and trim panels to access the body bolts.

For an additional thread that helped me through this process see DeRocha's body bushing thread

Tools and supplies:
Short M12x1.75 bolt
M12x1.75 Tap and Die (optional)
2 18mm open end wrenches
18mm socket
13mm socket
Air Impact Gun
Big Hammer
7/16" diameter punch or equivalent
Penetrating Oil (I highly recommend Kroil)
Hack Saw
Box cutter/Razor
Die grinder with wire wheel
Vice
Grinder
Large Channel Lock pliers or equivalent pair of large gripping tool (pipe wrench, etc)
Small Flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar
Spray Paint (optional)
Copper Coat anti-seize
Floor Jack and a big block of wood
3.5" Diameter pipe, 3.5"-4" long and a piece of scrap 1/4" steel plate to cover the top of the pipe with a 1/2" hole in the middle

There are 5 body mounts per side, the front on the radiator support is position 1 all the way to position 5 just inside the rear cargo area.

Start by removing the front seats, kick panels, trim pieces at the bottom of the door sills, rear trim piece in cargo area and the hinge plate behind the 2nd row fold down seats. Pull back the carpet and pop the rubber boots off to expose the body bolts.

Start removing the bolts, do 1 side at a time. All bolts come out through the inside of the Explorer except the very front mount which the bolt comes out towards the ground. You may need to use a 18mm wrench to hold the top nut on the front mount if it spins. Remove each bottom nut plate along the frame (see each section below) and then place the jack and block of wood under the body just behind the location number 3 mount and jack it up enough to remove the top bushings. Reinstall each new bushing following the numbers in the instructions after prepping the stock hardware (see below posts)

Continued below...

m_Daystar Kit (1).jpg
 


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Brian1

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Position 1

Remove the bolt and then pull on the lower bushing, you may need to rotate it some to get it to come off. I didn't have much trouble with mine coming off. Discard the lower bushing, the kit comes with new washers for the lower bushing. The top bushing above the frame will twist off the cup washer and stem.

I used a bench grinder with wire wheel to clean the rust off the stock hardware and then repainted it with black spray paint. Coat the new bushing with the grease provided where it will contact metal and insert back on the stem/cup washer. Reinstall.

m_Position 1.jpg
 




Brian1

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Position 2 and 4 AKA The Hardest Ones

Positions 2 and the driver side #4 (because you need to drop the gas tank) are the hardest ones to remove. Both are the same except 1 location uses a slightly thicker top bushing - see the instructions for which number bushing goes where.

Position 2 is in the front floor board under the front edge of the dash making a direct hammer blow much harder to obtain. To top that off they are commonly the most stuck together of all the bushings. For this reason I highly recommend the penetrating oil called "Kroil". I used normal penetrating oil and hammered and hammered but nothing budged. 2 shots of this stuff and they started coming apart. Use the straw and spray the ledge that is on the inside where the top of the hex insert is. You want the oil to go between the 2 stems to loosen up the rust bond. If you live in the rust belt then you may just be out of luck and have to cut them off as shown in DeRocha's thread I linked in my first post.

Make a puller out of a 3.5" pipe x 4" long and a piece of 1/4" steel to cap it with a 1/2" hole in the middle. Use the stock bolt and the nut with washer off the front mount, position 1. I used an old piece of Powerstroke Diesel exhaust. Put the pipe around the lower bushing, cap it and thread the bolt through the nut to fully engauge the threads. (See Picture in a post below, I ran out of attachments) Work the nut with washer up to it and tighten. If the bolt spins use the other 18mm wrench to hold it. Once it gets too tight give it a few whacks from the top and then keep tightening. Eventually it should either fall off or start to make popping noises and start coming loose.

For position 4 use the short M12 bolt inserted from the bottom since you have to dodge the exhaust shields and gas tank. Hammer them out from the top with the punch after some sprays of penetrating oil. On the driver side you will need to drop the gas tank. Use a 13mm socket and remove the skidplate and gas tank strap. Set the skidplate aside and then wiggle the gas tank around enough to get your hand in there to remove the bushings. Make it easier on yourself and do this with an almost empty tank! use boards to block the tank up if you need to. An empty tank weighs nothing and is easy to move around to gain access.

The bushings are bonded to the hardware on both the top and bottom. Place the bottom in a vice and use a hacksaw to saw through the rubber all the way around. Apply pressure with the blade towards the metal to remove as much rubber as possible. Finish removing any rubber with a wire wheel.

The top bushings are 4 pieces. Place them in a vice and using a large Channel Lock pliers rotate the top piece while pulling it up. Once that is off do the same for the bottom bushing. Clean the top cup washer with stem and paint if desired. Take the other cup with rubber coating and use a razor blade to slice the rubber up against the 2 crescent shaped metal discs. Pop it out with a screwdriver. Finish removing the rubber with a die grinder and small wire wheel to expose the 2 metal plates. There will still be some rubber in the middle of the plates as that is what holds them on. Coat the funny looking bushings with the grease provided and push them in by hand like the picture shows. Reassemble the bushings with grease as it came apart and then reinstall them.

m_Position 2 and 4 Lower (1).jpg


m_Position 2 and 4 Lower (3).jpg


m_Position 2 and 4 Lower (4).jpg


m_Position 2 and 4(1).jpg


m_Position 2 and 4(3).jpg


m_Position 2 and 4(5).jpg
 




Brian1

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Position 3

Install the short M12x1.75 bolt from the bottom, thread enough in to fully cover the female threads. From the top give it a shot of penetrating oil around the ledge where the top of the hex insert is, you can feel it with the spray can straw. Insert the punch and start hammering it out. If it is really stuck use the puller from the above post. Mine came out with just a few whacks.

Pull off the bushing from the lower nut plate by snapping off the thin rubber ring on the nut side and then pulling the bushing off from the other side. Rotate the top bushing and pull it off the top plate. Clean each one, chase the threads and give them a coat of paint. Reinstall with a coat of the provided grease where the bushing contacts metal.

m_Position 3 Lower (1).jpg


m_Position 3 Lower (2).jpg


m_Position 3.jpg
 




Brian1

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Position 5

The back bushings are very similar to position 3, follow the post on position # 3 right above. Here is what the rear bushings look like. Note my bolt is different since I have a 1" body lift.

m_Position 5 Lower (1).jpg


m_Position 5 Lower (2).jpg


m_Position 5.jpg
 




Brian1

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Misc Tips and the Puller

Before reinstalling the lower hardware grind each flared tip off so it fits back in easily.

Use the M12x1.75 tap and die to chase the threads on the bolts and nut plates for easier installation

Coat each bolt and lower hex stem with Copper Coat or other anti-seize on reinstallation

Puller for the stubborn bushings in position #2

m_Grinding Lower Flared Tip (1).jpg


m_Grinding Lower Flared Tip (2).jpg


m_Tap and Die.jpg


m_Puller (1).jpg


m_Puller (2).jpg
 




Brian1

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That should finish it up, it took me 2 days working on and off while taking pictures, letting spray paint dry, etc. The 2nd side goes much faster once you know what you are doing and that side only took half a day which included dropping my gas tank. It was a hard job but certainly do-able. The new bushings added about a 1/4" of lift.
 




x5050160

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Sticky sticky sticky!
 




obie

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Great writeup Brian. How are you liking them so far? I noticed more NVH transmitted to the cab after they settled in a bit, but massively reduced body lean on cornering. Better shocks should be able to dampen that though.
 








cgbier

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Thank you very much for this very illuminating how-to.

Is there a way to replace the bracket on the frame? #2 is rusted through on my truck. What size (and strength) of screws would be needed?
 




Brian1

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Is there a way to replace the bracket on the frame? #2 is rusted through on my truck. What size (and strength) of screws would be needed?

Yes, just cut off the rivets and then buy a used one from a junkyard as I really doubt you can purchase one new anywhere. Bolt the non-rusted one back on with some bolts, I would guess 5/16" or 3/8" but just match the hole size up. The whole process would be similar to removing the rivets on the radius arm cross member which is another write up on here somewhere.
 








DeRocha

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Kudos on tackling this job.. Although it looks straight forward and easy we both know some parts of the job can be a pain to work through. :thumbsup:
 




zr3375

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Thank you guys for recommending the DayStar kit. I had then body mounts replaced on my 2002 explorer sport. WOW!!! The ride is amazing.
 




Explorer23

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Wish I would have found this a few days earlier, I had to replace my radiator core support and decided to change body mounts as well. I ended up having to cut one side out. It was badly bent due to collision damage and the other side is stuck. Got the nut off but for the the life of me I can't unthread it or punch it out. It's just the "top hat" that fits on top of the bushing. I tried to dissect the bent bolt but I still can't tell if it's pressed or threaded on. I hope the other actual body mounts aren't this hard.
 




wefought

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Brian,
Good article. I have a 2003 Explorer Sport with all the body mounts rotted out---like totally gone. I have all the bolts and lower mounts out. My question is are there any other bolts, screws or other devices holding the body to the frame? When I try to jack it up the whole vehicle wants to come with it. I may be a little too cautious, but I sure don't want to trash my Sport.

Thanks,
Wayne
 




swshawaii

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The hard part is done if you have all 10 bolts and lower mounts removed. Ground straps should have adequate slack. Replace them ONE side and ONE mount location at a time making sure the cab does not move. Metal sleeves in top mounts should not require more than 2 inches of clearance for R&R. The parking brake tension should be removed by pinning next to the pedal to separate the cables for slack and mount clearance. Also, if you are using the Daystar KF04009 poly mount kit, use Loctite only when you retighten after 500+ miles.

http://www.daystarsuspensionparts.com/Installation_Instructions/Daystar/P10307-02.pdf

https://www.scribd.com/doc/263974357/parking-brake-cable-8212-rear-removal-and-installation-pdf
 




wefought

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Thanks for the info. Especially the link about the parking brake. The parts I have pulled so far are in great shape. A lot to be said for have a garage to park in. I'll remount one side before trying to raise the body.

This is the only forum that has anything about this issue. :)
 


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BKennedy

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@Brian1, I hope you don't mind but I wanted a printable PDF version of this "How To;" I got it as small as I could, 11 pages. This is what Daystar should have included in the box.

Regards/
Brian
 

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  • Daystar Body Mount How To.pdf
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