How to: - Replace Front Blend Door Actuator in 3rd Gen Ex. | Page 14 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: Replace Front Blend Door Actuator in 3rd Gen Ex.

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Just fixed mine today too.

Mine actually went out in the summer.. So i was postponing it... Finally it got cold here in MS... and my son was complainting when i would drop hi to school...

I have us fidelis... I have a $50 deductible so i thought if i took it to the dealer, they would cover... and they did not... Dealer quoted $500... So i told them just to sale me the part... So in total, i paid about $200, for the part and the diagnose - which hurts cuz i already knew whar the problem was and how to fix it... But sine i thought it would be covered.... Go figure.

For the most part, i followed the write up in this post, but i did not cut the plastic piece... Instead, I removed the ac controls in the head/central unit and the ac duct next to accellerator... removed the upper/front actuator screw from the front, where the ac controls are... Same place i pulled the actuator out from/through... Then just reversed the process.


Thanks guy for all info.
 




































I joined the forum just to tell you how thankful I was for your post. It took a while to get in, (I actually purchased an out of state handgun on the same day I applied for membership here, guess which one came to fruition first?):D
So here it is. Thanks.

3-4 hours maybe on our 03 Explorer.
 






I joined the forum just to tell you how thankful I was for your post. It took a while to get in, (I actually purchased an out of state handgun on the same day I applied for membership here, guess which one came to fruition first?):D
So here it is. Thanks.

3-4 hours maybe on our 03 Explorer.

Welcome aboard!! :salute:

You are welcome. Glad I could help out!! :D:thumbsup:
 






Thanks BigRondo

Just finished the blend door actuator replacement this afternoon. I can't say thanks enough for the excellent write up with pictures. A friend had come over to help with another project I was doing today and he saw my tools and the write up and said, what are you doing? I explained and he said, lets do it. So long story short...we finished in an hour. We did pull the facing surrounding the radio and a/c controls to get a little better vision of where the screws needed to go on the actuator itself. My friend kept saying how great of a write up this was...thanks again...
 






No problem. Glad to help. :)
 






Cutting the dash panel? What bullshi*. A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing for some people. First of all: by removing a few panel screws and the front bezel, the actuator is accessable and there is no need for your step 6. By placing an Irwin spreader clamp between the blenderbox and left dash frame, the left panel can be spread about 3/4 of an inch and the actuator can be comfortably unscrewed and removed with no special tools other than a wratchet wrench. Second: If you were a mechanic working for me, I'd have fired you and taken the cost of a replacement dashboard out of your paycheck. Third; If you were a neighbor and did that kind of work for me, I'd sue you. And lastly, we call mechanics like you, "butchers."
 






Cutting the dash panel? What bullshi*. A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing for some people. First of all: by removing a few panel screws and the front bezel, the actuator is accessable and there is no need for your step 6. By placing an Irwin spreader clamp between the blenderbox and left dash frame, the left panel can be spread about 3/4 of an inch and the actuator can be comfortably unscrewed and removed with no special tools other than a wratchet wrench. Second: If you were a mechanic working for me, I'd have fired you and taken the cost of a replacement dashboard out of your paycheck. Third; If you were a neighbor and did that kind of work for me, I'd sue you. And lastly, we call mechanics like you, "butchers.
____________________________________________________
Last edited by MGiovanni; 10-31-2011 at 08:54 AM. Reason: mispelled word.

This is your 1st post, really? This post is so wrong in so many ways. Allow me to point out a few observations.

Let me start off by saying this is a friendly community of people helping people. I changed my blend door actuator and documented the process in order to help others that may need to do the same thing. If you don't like my advice or choose not to follow it, that is your prerogative. Simply move on.

Apparently you didn't read the rules and regulations before you decided to pen your first post, otherwise you would have read the following:

Flaming, the act of berating, provoking, or giving someone a "verbal lashing" in a public forum will not be tolerated on this board. DON'T DO IT! Abusive and foul language is also not tolerated. This is intended to be a family site, so keep it clean.

I recommend that you purchase and read Dale Carnegie's book "How to Win Friends and Influence People". This will be a good read for you!! :thumbsup:

Please check your grammar & spelling before posting. There is a built-in spell checker, it's there for a reason. Your misspelled words are highlighted in red. Allow me to help you with this:

Incorrect: wratchet - correct: ratchet. Click here for dictionary reference.
Incorrect: accessable - correct: accessible. Click here for dictionary reference.
Incorrect: mispelled - correct: misspelled. Click here for dictionary reference.



I will now dissect your post to help you understand how wrong it is:

First of all: by removing a few panel screws and the front bezel, the actuator is accessable and there is no need for your step 6.

Step 6 is: Remove Blend Door Actuator. Care to elaborate on this? How are you supposed to install the new blend door actuator without removing the old one?

By placing an Irwin spreader clamp between the blenderbox and left dash frame, the left panel can be spread about 3/4 of an inch and the actuator can be comfortably unscrewed and removed with no special tools other than a wratchet wrench.

This is an excellent idea! ;) So instead of going on your rant, you could have posted something like this: The way I removed the actuator was: By placing an Irwin spreader clamp between the blenderbox and left dash frame, the left panel can be spread about 3/4 of an inch and the actuator can be comfortably unscrewed and removed with no special tools other than a wratchet wrench. With correct spelling, of course. :D

Second: If you were a mechanic working for me, I'd have fired you and taken the cost of a replacement dashboard out of your paycheck.

I am not a mechanic, just a do-it-yourself guy trying to help others out with my experiences with my Ex. As far as working for you, not even for $1,000,000 an hour. (That's a million dollars an hour :p:)

Third; If you were a neighbor and did that kind of work for me, I'd sue you.

If you were my neighbor, I'd move. If you were my neighbor, I would not, in any circumstance, offer my help to you. :p:

And lastly, we call mechanics like you, "butchers.

As stated earlier: I am not a mechanic, just a do-it-yourself guy trying to help others out with my experiences with my Ex. Oh, and my heat and A/C work properly because I replaced my blend door actuator. :p:


Had you spent as much time reading this thread as you did on your rant, you would have seen this, from the beginning of my write-up:

This procedure involves cutting the dash. The part of the dash I cut out is not visible with the center console back in the Ex. Some have replaced the actuator without cutting the dash. Whether or not you cut the dash is a decision you will have to make. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE OR UNWANTED MODIFICATIONS YOU DO TO YOUR VEHICLE. YOU ASSUME ALL RESPONSIBILITY FOR CUTTING YOUR DASHBOARD. ATTEMPT THIS INSTALL AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Some have replaced the actuator without cutting the dash. Whether or not you cut the dash is a decision you will have to make.

I'm guessing you missed this part. Quite a few people have mentioned that they were able to get the actuator out without cutting the dash. These people explained to us how they did it. This will, no doubt be helpful to others needing to change their actuators. The difference is that they explained how they did it without any flaming. I'm not going to tell you where in the thread these posts are. You're going to have to actually read the thread to find out.

My write up is in no way intended to replace the FOMOCO shop manual. It is simply my experience with changing my blend door actuator. My way of giving back to the community that has been an enormous help to me since the first day I drove my Ex into my driveway.

Instead of pointing out all the things you find wrong with my write-up, how about doing one of your own on replacing the blend door actuator???

When I wrote this post, there have been 34,157 views of this thread and your post is the only negative one. That's got to tell you something. :p:

I have done 7 write-ups to help out this community. How many have you done? :p:

If you are not part of the solution, you are part of the problem. :p:

Having said my peace, I will, in the friendly spirit that is ExplorerForum, extend a hand in welcoming you into our community:

Welcome aboard MGiovanni!! :salute:
 






As I said before first time I ever did anything on my car besides change a light bulb following this write up I surprised many people that I was able to fix the heat ..and I also got my uncle to do it on his car as well ....i found a way to do it without cutting the dash it did take me longer and gave me neck pain but its absolutely worth it....BIG RONDO I just want to thank you again for saving me money and helping me do it my self ....HATERS KEEP HATING lol
 






As I said before first time I ever did anything on my car besides change a light bulb following this write up I surprised many people that I was able to fix the heat ..and I also got my uncle to do it on his car as well ....i found a way to do it without cutting the dash it did take me longer and gave me neck pain but its absolutely worth it....BIG RONDO I just want to thank you again for saving me money and helping me do it my self ....HATERS KEEP HATING lol

Glad I could help out!! Thanks. :salute:
 


















Rondo, you are The. Man.

By the way, I live in Waltham, I feel like I should buy you a beer sometime for this.

I went to a mechanic last summer (as in 2010) and he told me that the clicking was likely the actuator and that it would cost around $1200 because although the part is inexpensive, they would have to pull the whole dashboard off and I'd be paying a ton in labor.

I went all last winter with no heat. By the way, I was teaching classes and tutoring privately so all I did was travel all day to students in the cold. I remember driving to one house in Weston and the thermostat was in the negatives. Now it's November, 2011 and I'm handier than I was last year. A couple weeks ago (when it was still warm out) I replaced my brake pads, rotors, sway bar links and left/front wheel bearing assembly.

This is going to save me so much money, thanks to you! I do have one question, if you or anyone else could help out:

I went to fordparts.com and found part #: 19E616
I'm not sure if this is the correct part. Do you know if it's the part I'm looking for? I can provide the car info, and even my VIN in a private message if it helps. Any help is appreciated! Thanks so much, and if you're in Waltham soon let me know and I'll buy you a beer!
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Rondo, you are The. Man.

By the way, I live in Waltham, I feel like I should buy you a beer sometime for this.

I went to a mechanic last summer (as in 2010) and he told me that the clicking was likely the actuator and that it would cost around $1200 because although the part is inexpensive, they would have to pull the whole dashboard off and I'd be paying a ton in labor.

I went all last winter with no heat. By the way, I was teaching classes and tutoring privately so all I did was travel all day to students in the cold. I remember driving to one house in Weston and the thermostat was in the negatives. Now it's November, 2011 and I'm handier than I was last year. A couple weeks ago (when it was still warm out) I replaced my brake pads, rotors, sway bar links and left/front wheel bearing assembly.

This is going to save me so much money, thanks to you! I do have one question, if you or anyone else could help out:

I went to fordparts.com and found part #: 19E616
I'm not sure if this is the correct part. Do you know if it's the part I'm looking for? I can provide the car info, and even my VIN in a private message if it helps. Any help is appreciated! Thanks so much, and if you're in Waltham soon let me know and I'll buy you a beer!


I got my actuator at my local dealer for around $70. I gave them my VIN and that way I made sure that I got the right part. I don't know what the part # was. I don't think this is a one part fits all. I will try to find the receipt when I get home tonight.
 






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