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How to: Replace Front Blend Door Actuator in 3rd Gen Ex.

wallster

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2004 XLT
My actuator pooped out last week, started clicking and then no more heat. I was able to unplug the heat switch and through the glove box opening, I could flip the blend door lever for heat. It worked on and off for about a week but today I had a warm place to replace the actuator.
The directions were great, thank you! I really apreciated the time you spent in taking photos and sharing your method, it made the job go nice and smooth (I owe you a beer!)
Thanks again, great job with the write up and I hope karma pays you back ten fold my friend.

Wally
 
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go pens

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It is possible that it is stuck in the hot position. Just follow the write-up very closely. Pay particular attention to the part when you plug in the new actuator and test it for operation. Start with the temp selector in cold, then turn to hot, then turn back to cold and leave it in the cold setting and make sure the actuator stops moving before you continue onto the next step.

Good luck and be sure to let us know how you make out. :biggthump
Rondo, all is well. Took me longer than most people but thats because I'm not mechanically inclined.

Hardest part for me was gettiing the front screw back in, the rear top was actually a breeze.

It was easier for me to get it out by unplugging it while still in. Also putting it back in was easier getting it situated then plugging it in (I did do the tesing part and leaving it on cold)

Was definitely worth the time and cash saved. Semper Fi
 

BigRondo

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My actuator pooped out last week, started clicking and then no more heat. I was able to unplug the heat switch and through the glove box opening, I could flip the blend door lever for heat. It worked on and off for about a week but today I had a warm place to replace the actuator.
The directions were great, thank you! I really apreciated the time you spent in taking photos and sharing your method, it made the job go nice and smooth (I owe you a beer!)
Thanks again, great job with the write up and I hope karma pays you back ten fold my friend.

Wally
Thanks Wally. Lately Karma has been crapping all over me. But I haven't given up. :biggthump

Rondo, all is well. Took me longer than most people but thats because I'm not mechanically inclined.

Hardest part for me was gettiing the front screw back in, the rear top was actually a breeze.

It was easier for me to get it out by unplugging it while still in. Also putting it back in was easier getting it situated then plugging it in (I did do the tesing part and leaving it on cold)

Was definitely worth the time and cash saved. Semper Fi
Thanks, glad you were able to get it going! :thumbsup:
 

yaneev

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Success!!!

BigRondo saved me a whole bunch of $$$. I was able to do it without cutting the dash because I found a 3 more bolts under the dash that made the area around the actuator loose when removed. 2 were just under the steering wheel. The third (and most important was to the right accross from the accelerator pedal but not visible (I had to feel for it). Once these 3 screws were off, I could wiggle the dash enough to remove the old and put in the new. Was important that once the new one was hooked up, the ignition get turned on so the dial automatically turned into the same position as the old.

Thanks again for helping me save $$$

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=306992
 

BigRondo

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Success!!!

BigRondo saved me a whole bunch of $$$. I was able to do it without cutting the dash because I found a 3 more bolts under the dash that made the area around the actuator loose when removed. 2 were just under the steering wheel. The third (and most important was to the right accross from the accelerator pedal but not visible (I had to feel for it). Once these 3 screws were off, I could wiggle the dash enough to remove the old and put in the new. Was important that once the new one was hooked up, the ignition get turned on so the dial automatically turned into the same position as the old.

Thanks again for helping me save $$$

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=306992
You're welcome! Glad I could help out. :thumbsup:
 

Brdo

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Thanks

Dealership wanted 745$ to instal. With your instructions and pictures I did it myself in 3 hours. That included 1 trip to the store for the 8mm wrench and lunch. I did not have to cut the dash it wiggled in after about 5 minutes of positioning. Thanks so much for the help and savings. If you ever find yourself in Lubbock TX email me and I will buy you a beer.
 

BigRondo

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Glad I could help out. :biggthump
Posted via Mobile Device
 

Ibexx1

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OK, not to sound like a dummy, but its not a clicking sound I hear but a banging sound, and it I can control it by not turning the temp completely to hot. The sound can also occur when quickly moving the dial. But I also need to get at the left bulb, its burned out. How do I get at it? Wow Rondo, your instructions are the bomb!
 

BigRondo

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OK, not to sound like a dummy, but its not a clicking sound I hear but a banging sound, and it I can control it by not turning the temp completely to hot. The sound can also occur when quickly moving the dial. But I also need to get at the left bulb, its burned out. How do I get at it? Wow Rondo, your instructions are the bomb!
Welcome to the forum. :salute:

Thank you for your kind words. The banging could be the blend door itself getting hung up. It's hard for me to say without actually hearing the noise. The speed you turn the dial has no impact on anything. When you turn the dial, the actuator moves the blend door accordingly at the speed the shaft on the actuator turns, not the same speed the dial is turned.

What left bulb are you talking about?
 

Ibexx1

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Either way, I should replace the part. The bulb is behind the bulb lights up the heater/ac controls. Its the left one, behind the knob that selects where the air flows. I suppose I should expect something to wear out, the truck has 197K on the clock, original everything except a few wear parts and alternator.
 

BigRondo

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I have spare controls here. I'll check them out and post some pics on changing the bulbs. I'm guessing it shouldn't be too difficult but who knows. :dunno:
 

BigRondo

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I have the manual controls.

First step is to remove the radio bezel. I use a butter knife, but a putty knife or a trim removal tool will work also. Don't use a screwdriver!! It is too thin and could do some damage. Start at the top right and work your way around. When you get enough of the bezel snapped off you can pull it straight out.



This is the view of back of the controls. The red arrows indicate the bulb holders. Twist them counterclockwise to remove them. It may be easier to remove the controls from the bezel. Do so by pulling the knobs on the front straight out then remove the 4 screws indicated by the yellow arrows. You may have to disconnect the wiring from the back of the controls and bezel to gain access to the controls. Let me know if you need assistance.

 

Ibexx1

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Ready for this kick in the head? I went to the dealer for 2 new bulbs. You have to buy the whole control assembly!!! He even emailed Ford, and they said, no, the prescribed fix is to replace the whole control panel. What a crock!
 

BigRondo

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Holy crap!! Maybe try your local parts store? :dunno:
 

Ibexx1

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The local Bumper to Bumper store had the bulbs for $1.50 each! They are Wagner PC74
 

BigRondo

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The local Bumper to Bumper store had the bulbs for $1.50 each! They are Wagner PC74
Good deal. Thanks for posting that info! :thumbsup:
 

Ibexx1

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Well, $90 for the motor and 3.5 hours later, the noise is gone-thanks a bunch.
I don't know whether to be happy because I saved $400-500 or mad because the part was so stinking expensive. The 2003 is just a bit different to remove console, but its nothing you need to change on the directions. Also, this is weird, the motor assembly was held on with 5/16 screws.
 

BigRondo

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Well, $90 for the motor and 3.5 hours later, the noise is gone-thanks a bunch.
I don't know whether to be happy because I saved $400-500 or mad because the part was so stinking expensive. The 2003 is just a bit different to remove console, but its nothing you need to change on the directions. Also, this is weird, the motor assembly was held on with 5/16 screws.
Nice! You should be happy because you saved a bunch of cash. :D
 

todouble

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Awesome

BigRondo!

You are the man. :notworthy

Had no heat in my 03 explorer xlt, and same clicking sound... Bought replacement acuator from Trousley Ford online for $54.00 thanks to the info from: "03snkvert" (top of page 2 in this topic)

Just followed your tutorial and replaced my acuator in about 1 1/2 hours.
The old acuator was held in place by only 3 screws instead of 4. And the one missing was the hardest one to access (top one) so that helped out!

When I was all done, I realized I had no beer, so I had to celebrate by driving to the store to get some. It was a little chilly on the way there so I kicked on the heat and felt a big smile come to my face. :D

So here's to you devildog :chug:

Semper Fi

Lcpl Kirichkow :usa::salute:
 
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BigRondo

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BigRondo!

You are the man. :notworthy

Had no heat in my 03 explorer xlt, and same clicking sound... Bought replacement acuator from Trousley Ford online for $54.00 thanks to the info from: "03snkvert" (top of page 2 in this topic)

Just followed your tutorial and replaced my acuator in about 1 1/2 hours.
The old acuator was held in place by only 3 screws instead of 4. And the one missing was the hardest one to access (top one) so that helped out!

When I was all done, I realized I had no beer, so I had to celebrate by driving to the store to get some. It was a little chilly on the way there so I kicked on the heat and felt a big smile come to my face. :D

So here's to you devildog :chug:

Semper Fi

Lcpl Kirichkow :usa::salute:
Welcome aboard! :salute:

No problem. Glad I could help out. Rookie mistake, not having the beer before you begin the project. :p:

You still in? Where are you stationed? What is your MOS?

Always good to see another Jarhead on here! Semper Fi.

 



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