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replace threaded thermostat housing+sensors w/ clipped versions

angstrom08

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City, State
Mid Michigan
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 Explorer
'01 2WD XLS 223k


So, while collecting the parts necessary to complete that explorer-owner right of passage, the replacement of the thermostat housing, I put too much faith in the amazon and o'reilly computerized databases to choose the right parts. The explorer is currently fitted with the older, threaded housing and sensors. I have purchased a motorcraft RH144, RH165, RG614, thermostat, Fel-Pro 35617, and sensor clips which are all parts for the unthreaded/clipped housing. I also have the SW5174 threaded temperature sender. I realized when I was comparing what I had in my truck to what I had purchased, all I was missing was the clip-style/unthreaded temperature sender and the temperature sensor and the sensor o-rings.

So, if I purchase the clip style sensors, etc. can I replace the older threaded housing/thermostat/sensors with the newer style unthreaded housing/thermostat/sensors?

Does anyone anticipate any other gotchas?

Thank you.
 



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swshawaii

Elite Explorer
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Kailua-Oahu, Hawaii
Year, Model & Trim Level
'05 Sport Trac XLS (RWD)
Correct, all you need to complete your parts list are the Motorcraft DY1269 ECT sensor, and SW6146 gauge sender. IMO, an excellent and very worthwhile upgrade. Factory torque specs are extremely important to prevent warping or other issues. Lower (3) and upper housing bolts (3) are only 89 inch/lbs. (7-8 ft/lbs.) See post #22 linked below for the complete parts list and #24 for the superb Ben Grosser tutorial. GL

4.0 SOHC plastic thermostat housing

More Information for MOTORCRAFT DY1269
More Information for MOTORCRAFT SW6146
 






angstrom08

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2001 Explorer
Thank you very much for the confirmation and the information! I ordered the right sensors and they arrived earlier today. I'm doing the upper and lower manifold gaskets at the same time, so, with the upper manifold off and reasonable 65 degree Michigan weather, It was a nice afternoon.

The Ben Grosser tutorial is rather incredible! I realized as I was working how much work that must have been.

I have a few quick questions. There's a shielded cable erupting from the big, black wire harness located underneath the lower intake manifold for the crankshaft position sensor. I discovered that mine crossed tightly over the top of the thermostat housing, but I can't see it in any of the thermostat photos I've found online. I suspect during some previous repair, the sensor had been disconnected and moved out of the way. They must have forgotten about it until the end and didn't want to disconnect/unbolt everything to route the cable properly, so they just made it work. Hurray.

So, I have everything apart. I'd like to put things back where they belong. Is there a reference diagram for routing these cables? Assuming that doesn't exist, is it supposed to go down around the left or right side of the thermostat housing. Also, I noticed how filthy some of these connectors were. Should I resist the impulse to clean em up? Is it inappropriate to put dieelectric grease inside the grommeted/sealed electrical connectors?
 






XLTrunner

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MN
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1998 Explorer XLT 4.0SOHC
On SOHC engines, that cable or wiring harness lies tightly over the top of the t-stat housing just as you describe. P.I.T.A. to change the lower t-stat housing if you aren't removing the lower manifold to gain some slack to move it out of the way. I went with removing the alternator, alternator mtg bracket and tensioner to free it from the retaining clips that hold it snugly to the front of the block to gain some slack.
 






angstrom08

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Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 Explorer
On SOHC engines, that cable or wiring harness lies tightly over the top of the t-stat housing just as you describe. P.I.T.A. to change the lower t-stat housing if you aren't removing the lower manifold to gain some slack to move it out of the way. I went with removing the alternator, alternator mtg bracket and tensioner to free it from the retaining clips that hold it snugly to the front of the block to gain some slack.

This was a really useful suggestion. Here's a view of what's accessible for the curious:

 






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