Replace Timing Chain? Tensioner??

[vincewarde]

OK folks, I'm looking for some advice here. My Ex is a 1993 EB with 225k. Runs great, gets 14-15 mpg in town 17-19 on the road leaks about a quart about every 1500 miles from the front seal. Lifter noise on start up only.

It currently needs a new water pump (leaking and occasional high pitched bearing noise) and I plan to do the front seal at the same time. While I am there I'm planning on replacing the fan and the idler pulley (original).

Of course, I will be looking at the timing cover (and maybe the timing chain, etc. if I pull the cover to change the seal) - what do you think, should I:

Just inspect everything and replace what look worn?

Replace the tensioner assembly?

Replace the timing chain, sprockets and tensioner?

Thanks!

 

[arco777]

It would probably be worthwhile to replace the chain. It does stretch over time and retard timing somewhat. They don't usually break, but the stretch can cost you some power.

 

[cerberusaardvark]

When I replaced mine I also did the sprocket tensioner and guide too. I took another forum members advice and got the factory Teflon coated front seal from the dealer. That was 15 bucks. I coated the seal on both sides with permatex ultra copper and so far no leaks. Make sure u also get the rubber seal that goes around the crank pulley as well. Make sure u use the ultra copper on the oil pan seal also. I gooped the hell out of mine after I cleaned it off with brake cleaner.

I like the ultra copper because it's light colored so u can spot leaks more easily and it seals better in the presence of oil. At least that's what the tube said.

The hardest part was figuring out how to break loose the crank bolt. I ended up getting a long chain strap wrench from autozone and bracing the handle on the frame. It did make some very small indentations on the belt guide ridges but I brushed them with a brass brush and made sure they weren't sharp and called it good.

When I compared the old chain to the new chain there was barely any stretching. The tensioner and guide also looked brand new. The only worn thing was the teeth of the old sprocket, and even then just barely.

 

[vincewarde]

Thanks for the advice. I think I am just going to do the crank seal without removing the cover.... she is still running very strong and I don't rack up many miles nowadays.

 

[Chrisman889]

Was there any signs of it needing a timing chain? Mine is starting to idle rough, its not constant it just starts to rumble every so often.

 

[smegun]

deciding on inconsistencies of fine tuning at times the truck is slipping well and excellerating good without vibration and it makes it to the wheels with a fairly good timing to wheels ....ive taken the retardation rout with most of the tuneups maf clean wires relays plugs fuel pump filter etc... the truck is as consistent same as when i bought it mostly ....im going to get a new exhaust first but could be worse a tired engine scenario where oil viscosity makes a bearing or it doesnt :/ there is friction some where showing up and i dont like only 1 temp Gage .. i like to think basic vibration may come from insufficiant flow over the parts and wear or a weakening timing chain where a tensioner is missing or the chain is slack

so im thinking about changing the timing chain and oil pump combo after removing the pan and balancer has this helped any o yea there is one sensor i havnt changed the cam sensor in the back of the motor the hood comes off and the acrobat shimmies down the windshield there is no knock sensor here and someone told me it is in the circle of sensors that account for the timing

.... its not obd2 so i cant chip it into advance to see what would happen that is freezing into a timming mark

....worrying about allready broken engine is question at 50000 they should send you a new set of sensors he ha .....

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