replace water pump on a 1996 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

replace water pump on a 1996

bigcrunch

Well-Known Member
Joined
December 17, 2009
Messages
224
Reaction score
2
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 v8
On 1996 v8 5.0 do the ac compressor, power steering pump, alternator, air pump need to be removed-unbolted to get to the water pump?
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Remove the alternator - everything else can stay. Except for the air pump, I really don't know, my Explorer doesn't have one.
Plan on removing the timing cover, as well, because they share the same bolts and the timing cover will leak after you remove the water pump (if you don't change the timing cover gaskets too).
It's possible for the water to leak into the oil pan through the timing cover bolt holes if both gaskets are not replaced. Also, use silicone sealant on the gaskets and bolt holes.
 












I'm not sure... Motor Craft, or Napa maybe?

I replaced mine with an AutoZone Duratech water pump with a lifetime warranty and it didn't last very long before I had to change it again. Now, I have 6k on this pump and it's begun squeeling again just a few nights ago. It's not leaking yet, though.:thumbdwn:
 






No Need to remove any of the listed items to get to the water pump. Gotta remove the serpentine belt and the cooling fan tho. Access is made much easier by removing the radiator. Get a Haynes manual. They document the procedure reasonably well.
 






Plan on removing the timing cover, as well, because they share the same bolts and the timing cover will leak after you remove the water pump (if you don't change the timing cover gaskets too).
It's possible for the water to leak into the oil pan through the timing cover bolt holes if both gaskets are not replaced. Also, use silicone sealant on the gaskets and bolt holes.

Coat all these bolts in anti-seize. They like to rust inside the timing cover and will,more then likely, break. This will save you (or the next person who does this job) a HUGE headache next time.
 






I agree, but...

Coat all these bolts in anti-seize. They like to rust inside the timing cover and will,more then likely, break. This will save you (or the next person who does this job) a HUGE headache next time.
Put anti-seize only on the bolt threads, not on the shanks of the bolts. The reason the bolts rust is because they tend to leak through the bolt holes of the timing cover. Use plenty of silicone sealant on the shanks of the bolts and in the bolt holes.
The first time I removed my water pump, one of the bolts broke off flush with the engine block. I cut a slot in the bolt, soaked it in penatrating oil, and then heated the block rapidly with a propane torch; screwing the remaining bolt out with a screwdriver. When I applied the new water pump, I only used anti-seize on the bolts and a short time later, I had an external water leak from the timing cover bolt holes. I did the job again using anti-seize and sealant in the bolt holes - 6000 miles and still no leak.
I also agree that the job is easier with the radiator removed, but it can be done without removing the radiator. With the radiator in place, removing the alternator, tensioner and bracket provides enough room to do the job. I did have to construct a couple tools out of some scrap metal to hold the drive belt pulley in place while I broke the fan/clutch nut loose.
It's not an easy job. You have to weigh whether or not to go through the extra trouble to remove the radiator and clamp the transmission coolant hoses, or not. I chose not to. Good luck with whatever you decide.;)
 






I have it all apart, cleaned all the surfaces and bolts some had rust on em.
Painted the bolts with Krylon paint after blainting them clean.
I am going to use a Cardone reman pump from Rockauto, comes out cheaper than from the parts houses.
I do not want a new one at economy price since I think they are all far east imports. Cardone is known for good quality rebuilds according to local mechanics.

Now for the RTV sealer on bolts I have seen where some brands contain water and cause metals to rust, prime example I use it on my manifold installs instead of the rubber end seals everytime rust... what are you guys (and gals) using?
 






I use Permatex high temp RTV and copper (spray-on) high temp anti-seize. Sounds like you no what your doing. So, did you remove the radiator?:D
 






Left the radiator, once I took a closer look I realized fan had to be unscrewed, bought special wrench from Oreilly
removed 2 bolts for shroud removed fan and it as one.
removed 4 bolts for belt pulley off WP
removed 9 bolts for pump
all hoses in the way where unended along the process
 






Back
Top