Replaced Broken flexplate | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Replaced Broken flexplate


Well-Known Member
June 17, 2008
Reaction score
City, State
1991 XLT Manual Locks
Year, Model & Trim Level
I suspected my flexplate was cracking cause of the weird noise when I starting. This went on for about a month before it cracked enough to not the let the starter engage the teeth. So my plan was to try to do this without dropping the tranny completely. This is how I did it Picts taking looking up. You see those long black bolts I screwed those 8" long bolts in on the top to keep the tranny aligned and just slid the tranny and transfer case still attached back on those bolts supported with a floorjack. Just enough room to get a ratchet in there to get the flexplate out.




Looks like you've got a bit of a oil pan gasket or rear main seal issue too. Interesting method to accessing that area. I didn't realize there was that much slip on the driveshafts to get that much movement. Very interesting.

No the driveshafts have to come off. I said the transfer case is still attached to the transmission. You have to take off the tranny cross support unhook the tranny lines from the tranny take out the dip stick. Unhook the throttle linkage disconnect some electrical connectors to the tranny that's about it. The backend of the transfercase is held up with a floorjack. I mean its pretty much ready to drop out just those two long bolts keeping it aligned so putting it back together was much easier.
It doesn't just slide back this far easily. There is plenty of space in under the floor tunnel. The bulge on the bellhousing where the starter goes that hits the Y-pipe keeping the tranny from sliding back enough. You have to let the tranny droop downward angle then wiggle it back then raise all the way up wiggle it over the Y-pipe while using a prybar to help it over then it slides back enough space to get the flexplate out.

Ah, thanks for clearing that up. Still interesting for those that need to get in there. I doubt a rear main could be done this way but definitely a torque converter and maybe an input shaft seal. I imagine it went back together pretty quick.