replaced maf and still have powerloss and bucking and cel

[xlt1993]

As some of you already know I posted about an intermittent cel and power loss with bucking and carrying on. You may also recall that all codes pointed to a faulty maf sensor. To update everyone,I replaced the maf and cleared all codes from the PCm. All was well for about 4days and about 200 miles. I was on My way to do some shopping and while going to the store the same problem returned. So when I got to the store I pulled out the code reader and pulled the codes using the koeo method. I got code 186(fault in injector pulse timing/high). I then cleared the code as required by the code reader mfg before doing the koer test. Did the koer test and received the 111 code(system pass). So now my big question Is does anyone know how to fix the injector pulse timing issue? Is that a sensor going bad or a relay or something? All issues disappeared after the maf sensor was replaced and codes were cleared. Now one problem has returned. Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks In advance,Bill

 

[arco777]

The code 186 definition is more accurately, injector pulse width longer than expected. This means your PCM recorded that the injectors fired for way longer than is typical. This is usually set when your PCM is desperately trying to keep the engine from running lean by dumping all the fuel it can, thus firing the injectors for real long pulses.

You need to figure out why your engine might be running lean. Common issues are a vacuum leak or low fuel pressure. You can check for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner at various suspect spots in the engine bay while the engine runs; if a vac leak is present, the cleaner will be sucked in and the engine will surge or stall. Check fuel pressure is adequate using the test port on the fuel rail. When did you last change your fuel filter? Could the in-tank sock be plugged? Some ideas. Less common are an issue with the O2 sensors and MAF not agreeing on readings that make sense during operation of the engine.

 

[xlt1993]

I haven't done a fuel filter change on it as of yet. Waiting for a day off where the weather is semi cooperative for that. I did sea foam it today tho and after the sea foam 1/3 can in to the brake vac hose and rest into the fuel tank. This caused it to blow blue smoke which is typical thru my experience with seafoam. The smoke cleared up and now it has a miss and an occasional thump sound from the exhaust that wasn't there before I sea foamed it. Prior to sea foaming the engine. When you would get on the throttle real good it would buck and carry on and would at times act as if the engine would simply cut out with a really pronounced hiss from the exhaust,but as soon as the throttle was released the engine comes right back to life and runs. My ex is a 5 spd to to determine if it was pop starting itself or not I shoved the clutch in and the engine revved right up. I've already got 1500 in this thing in parts and labor fixing it up. Not that I mind fixing it up just getting aggravated. But that goes without saying. There are days where everything is perfect and it runs like it has a rocket strapped to the back bumper but then theres times where as long as you keep the engine under 2000-2500 rpm it's fine until you pass that mark and ita like nope not going.

 

[arco777]

I'd look at fuel pressure. May have a failing pump. You can hook up a pressure test gauge and carefully route it to be able to watch fuel pressure while driving. If the pump can't keep up, you'll see pressure drop and the engine will lean out. The PCM will try to trim fuel and compensate with longer injector pulses, but there is only so much it can do if it is starving.

 

[malohnes]

For the Seafoam use to clean sludge, I prefer to use straight water. It won't harm the Cats which is what i think might have happened to you.

I ingest a 8 oz glass of hot water through a vacuum hose with the engine running at about 2k rpm. Should take about 4 or 5 minutes if you do it correctly on a fully warmed up engine.

For your problem, it almost sounds like a vacuum leak leaning out the engine.

 

[xlt1993]

I thought I may have fouled the plugs out by sea foaming the engine. I was told by the person I got it from that they never changed the plugs so I just chalked the slight miss I have now to a plug being fouled out. As for the water, I have always been advised against doin that as the water steams and can harm the valves and cause corrosion in the engine. How would sea foam harm the cats? I've never heard of it doing that. (don't mean it doesn't happen I've just never personally heard of that before. I will try to get a fuel pressure gauge this week after I get paid and see what the fuel pressure is both at idle and while under various loads. My question is how if the pump is possibly failing would it run great for 4 days and then all of the sudden run like crap on the 5th? Same question regarding a vac leak. I always thought that the leak was either there or it wasn't. Not a here and there thing. Again its not that it hasnt/doesnt happen or that I don't believe yall just not something that I've heard of is all.

 

[arco777]

Leak could be temperature dependent in some cases or dependent upon operating conditions (I.e. Certain heat/AC control setting opens a valve to what is normally vacuum but it is unplugged so vac leaks). Fuel pumps that are failing and running hot can be helped along sometimes by enough fuel in the tank to cool them, resulting in poor running at low fuel levels because the pump heats up and efficiency falls.

 

[2stroke]

I always caution people about de-carbonizing an engine. A healthy running engine will never build up too much carbon. Everyone jumps right to seafoam, and I have yet to see it do any good. The rattling could be carbon flakes stuck in the catalyst. It should eventually burn up.

As for water harming valves, seafoam does the same thing. Coolant during a head gasket leak does it too. Pouring liquid into the engine should never be regular maintenance.

Before going any farther, you need to replace your spark plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, clean MAF, and test fuel pressure.

 

[xlt1993]

Purchases new plugs and wires as well as a new fuel filter. Going to hopefully get a new pump this weekend. Then it will just be a matter of having a decent day to put it all in and clear the engine codes out from the pcm. I am confident that the pump is on its way out due to the fact that as someone stated earlier it's fine if it has over a 1/2 tank but once it gets below 1/2 it starts running crappy. So its goin to be parked for a while( don't want to do that since I will probably need the 4x4 this weekend as they're callin for a good amount of snow) but if it must be done then I will do it(leaving the ex parked that is)

 

[Rhett]

I am confident that the pump is on its way out due to the fact that as someone stated earlier it's fine if it has over a 1/2 tank but once it gets below 1/2 it starts running crappy.

Sounds like the pump getting weak. At least you can fill it up, and it hopefully will run ok thru the storm.

Same storm that will hit you guys....is supposed to hit us tonight...with 3 to 5 inches of snow , but we'll see. It would be our first snow of the winter if it happens. I just don't want 3 inches of solid ice. That would be awful. My Ex is ready, but I'm not!

 

[arco777]

Please let us know what happens. I do recommend choosing your replacement pump carefully. I've heard horror stories about 6 month lifespan Airtex pumps, and I had a new "improved design" Bosch pump fail on me after only a couple months. Next time I do the job I'm going to spend the extra on a Motorcraft.

I'm looking forward to possibly getting some snow here in AR.

 

[2stroke]

I bought a made in USA Airtex fuel pump/ sender assembly and it's been perfect. When my sender rusted out of my b4000, I pulled it from the Explorer and it's been great. I probably have 40k miles on this. The fuel gauge is more accurate than stock too.

 

[arco777]

I bought a made in USA Airtex fuel pump/ sender assembly and it's been perfect. When my sender rusted out of my b4000, I pulled it from the Explorer and it's been great. I probably have 40k miles on this. The fuel gauge is more accurate than stock too.

I did replace the aforementioned Bosch pump with an Airtex, and it worked fine. I only kept the truck for another few months. I do want to buy American and I saw the video Airtex made showing their manufacturing operation. I just happened upon negative reviews after installation. Not sure if there was a bad batch or what.

 

[FR-425]

The code 186 definition is more accurately, injector pulse width longer than expected. This means your PCM recorded that the injectors fired for way longer than is typical. This is usually set when your PCM is desperately trying to keep the engine from running lean by dumping all the fuel it can, thus firing the injectors for real long pulses.

You need to figure out why your engine might be running lean. Common issues are a vacuum leak or low fuel pressure. You can check for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner at various suspect spots in the engine bay while the engine runs; if a vac leak is present, the cleaner will be sucked in and the engine will surge or stall. Check fuel pressure is adequate using the test port on the fuel rail. When did you last change your fuel filter? Could the in-tank sock be plugged? Some ideas. Less common are an issue with the O2 sensors and MAF not agreeing on readings that make sense during operation of the engine.

Agreed, EEC-IV does have "out of range" codes that would indicate that the system cannot compensate any further for the conditions. Such as code 186. This indicates a vacuum leak not a sensor failure.

For example I took my Ex to the top of pikes peak, At 13,360 ft. the PCM could not compensate for the thin air and I got code 86 (adaptive fuel limit reached) . Drove off the mountain and reset.

Heck, at that altitude I was on an oxygen bottle.

 

[malohnes]

It's a come myth that water invested in the manner I prescribed will damage most engines. First, the engine being at full operating temp will steam vaporize the water, which is the point, and the steam breaks up and removes the carbon buildup. Two, if you ingest small quantities through the small vacuum lines you can't take in too much to harm the engine. Running the engine at 2-3k rpm helps from bogging the engine.

Yes, any fluid like coolant will foul plugs and make the engine run line crap. A well tuned and maintained engine doesn't need this kind of treatment do its not for everybody. But it can help.

I still feel there is a vacuum leak somewhere. You've got unmetered air causing troubles.

 

[xlt1993]

Does anyone have any thoughts on the spectre fuel pumps? They come with a life time warranty and has everything with it for about $100. I checked the vac hoses (all that I could see and find at least) and all appeared to be present and accounted for including all vac plugs. I also checked the air intake tube coming from the air filter to the throttlebody when I replaced the maf sensor. I didn't see any cracks or holes in the bends or on the under side of it. Only other thing I can think of is maybe an intake gasket. As for the bucking and cutting out it has done this since I got it. The missing started as soon as I seafoamed it. Which I probably wont do again. Did that to my 79 f250 the original engine had 200k on it and was going to be replaced so I said to myself it can't hurt nothing so i did and that old engine knocked and rattled and pinged for a week before it blew all the crap outta it then it seemed to run better for the next 6 months til I was able to replace it. Also does anyone have any tips to get to the #3 spark plug? I noticed it's pretty much buried under everything on the passenger side of the motor.

 

[arco777]

Spectre or Spectra Premium?

I've used Spectra Premium radiators before and been quite happy with their quality, FWIW. Complete fuel pump and hangar assembly for that brand shows as under $70 on RockAuto.

#3 plug, go through the wheel well if you're having trouble. Personally haven't had that big of an issue with it but there is that option.

 

[xlt1993]

Spectre fuel pump not spectra premium. The local zone has them for about $100 and they come with a lifetime warranty.

 

[2stroke]

Rock auto lists an Airtex fuel pump/sender assembly that I am pretty sure is the same one I got a few years ago. Its listed at $57.89, and it has everything but the metal lock ring. Limited lifetime warranty too.

Strange side note, explorer sending units are identical to b4000, and I assume rangers as well even with huge capacity differences. Explorer tanks use a metal lock ring that rusts out, while my b4000 has a plastic screw on lid. Metal lock rings are so dumb, leave it to ford.

 

[Rhett]

Also does anyone have any tips to get to the #3 spark plug? I noticed it's pretty much buried under everything on the passenger side of the motor.

You'll want a swivel socket and extensions.

Go thru the wheel well with you swivel socket, place it over the plug. Then, with your right hand, fish your extension down to the socket. Use your left hand to hold the socket in place and guide the extension to the socket.

Installation is the reverse of the above.