Replaced radiator

[429CJ-3X2]

When I replaced the alternator on my '01 Sport Trac 2 weeks ago I repositioned the clamp on the upper radiator hose so I could get my hand in to the belt without scratching my arm. Since then I've noticed a few drops of coolant under the truck after it's been driven, and thought moving the clamp had somehow broken the seal between the hose and radiator outlet. I drove it to work Friday and went back out a few minutes later and saw coolant dripping heavily. Sure enough, the plastic tank on the radiator had about a 2" hairline crack just above the upper outlet.

I'm an Advance Auto Speed Perks member, so I got online & found they have a radiator with a 2" core for $199. Part # 432559. Yes it still has the plastic tanks. 20% discount for ordering online brought it down to $159, plus I got a reward for $20 off my next $40 purchase. I already had a $20 off $40 purchase reward which I used to buy 3 gallons of antifreeze for just over $7 per gallon. The direct replacement 1" core radiator was $168 before discount. Picked up the radiator on my way home.

The install took longer than expected, but I was in no hurry and I added a heater in the new lower hose for those cold winter mornings. Everything fit perfectly. I was concerned about the fittings for the transmission lines because they stick out farther than the originals, but that was not a problem. The only parts I needed from the old radiator were the clips holding the overflow hose to the radiator and the clip on the bottom for the trans lines. My lower trans fitting was heavily rusted, but I sprayed it with penetrating oil the night before, and it came off with no problem. It does appear to be ever so slightly seeping fluid where the line itself comes thru the fitting, so I'll have to watch that.

TIPS - a stubby 5/8 wrench speeds up removal and installation of the transmission lines. Moving the air intake tube out of the way gives you more room to get the radiator in and out, but isn't a must. I did not remove the fan as someone else said he did. I did have trouble getting the top trans line started due to the angle being slightly off. Turned out the problem was the top line had twisted over the bottom one in front of the engine causing it to bind and not line up right. Repositioned it like it should be, and it lined up to the fitting just fine. The biggest difficulty with this job is the sway bar is in the way of getting the lower hose on and off the radiator. There's just not enough clearance between the lower radiator outlet and the sway bar. I suppose you could have the radiator unbolted while you remove/install the lower hose, but I didn't think of that at the time.

 

[koda2000]

IDK if this is the case, but if you reused your radiator hoses and are using the OE tension clamps you have to put the clamp on back positioned where they were originally, or they tend to leak a little.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

That's not the case here, but that is what I first suspected was causing the leak even though I never moved or removed the hose, just the clamp. I did reuse the upper hose and clamp, but it doesn't seem to be leaking. I would have replaced that hose too, but it's $30 and none of the Advance stores in the area had one - including the warehouse up the road. I'll replace it when I do the thermostat gasket which looks to be weeping a tiny bit.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's not the case here, but that is what I first suspected was causing the leak even though I never moved or removed the hose, just the clamp. I did reuse the upper hose and clamp, but it doesn't seem to be leaking. I would have replaced that hose too, but it's $30 and none of the Advance stores in the area had one - including the warehouse up the road. I'll replace it when I do the thermostat gasket which looks to be weeping a tiny bit.

Good job, big job. Be careful doing the thermostat gasket stuff, do not tweek those sensors at all. Don't nudge them or put pressure against them when removing bolts etc. The first design of those housings are basically one use only. If a sensor is disturbed, it will leak and cannot be re-tightened etc. Ford changed the design in about 2002, which is the right repair if something breaks or leaks with an older one. I got lucky without knowing that when I worked on my 99 the first time. I didn't mess with the sensors or disturb them, and they have never leaked.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

Yeah, I've read all the horror stories about the t-stat housings. I'm not looking forward to that job at all. So far the gasket just seems to be damp. I'm not touching it until it gets noticeably worse.

 

[CDW6212R]

The o-ring etc, is a good design, other than the sensors it's an easy thing to deal with. Some people either just get too rough with things when they dis-assemble, or else some of those sensors were installed such that the sides protrude in the path of the socket. Mine was right up next to one, but it didn't push against it.