06EBMG
Member
- Joined
- April 25, 2019
- Messages
- 18
- Reaction score
- 2
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2006 Ford Explorer EB
Started getting a very light rattle on start-up and every now and again after a hot soak re-start from the rear timing chain. Installed the new rear tensioner after I got off of work. When I compressed the old one it had very little resistance and oil came squirting out of the tensioner side. This was done right after I had shut the engine off after driving home from work, which is a 30 minute drive for me. So it had plenty of oil in it. I did not prime the new tensioner the old school way. Instead, I removed the fuel pump relay (#49 in the power distribution block) and cranked the engine until the oil pressure light went out. I let the starter cool for 30 seconds and checked the tensioner for leaks, then cranked again for another 10 seconds. Fired it up after re-installing the relay and was greeted by sweet silence. Checked the tensioner periodically for leaks while I let it idle for 15 minutes. Took it out for a good 45 minute drive after a quiet idle, so far so good. I know how these timing chains CAN go, so I was pleased as punch when the old one was actually shot. Glad it did not go the other way. (Knocks on wood)
Definitely worth doing every 75k miles. With the part being so reasonable to purchase, I think I will do mine every 30k miles as preventative maintenance.
A note to 4th gen owners who have not done this yet: In my case, I had to remove the entire fender liner assembly to get a straight shot at the tensioner. After removing the small flap, there was no way to get a good purchase on the tensioner. The fender liner takes all of 5 minutes to remove, and it makes the job cake once done. Also allows the torque wrench to remain perpendicular to the tensioner for a good positive "click".
Keep the bottom side down everyone.
Definitely worth doing every 75k miles. With the part being so reasonable to purchase, I think I will do mine every 30k miles as preventative maintenance.
A note to 4th gen owners who have not done this yet: In my case, I had to remove the entire fender liner assembly to get a straight shot at the tensioner. After removing the small flap, there was no way to get a good purchase on the tensioner. The fender liner takes all of 5 minutes to remove, and it makes the job cake once done. Also allows the torque wrench to remain perpendicular to the tensioner for a good positive "click".
Keep the bottom side down everyone.