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Replacement Parts Advice!

mcdavidhome00

Member
Joined
November 1, 2021
Messages
28
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8
City, State
Jackson, MS
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 Explorer XLT
Hell my fellow explorers. I need advice on where to go for the best replacement parts for my 2002 explorer xlt. I have over 260,000 miles and would like to do some preventive maintenance by replacing my stock alternator, starter, power steering pump and fuel pump before they eventually go out. Where can I shop to find the best quality parts at an affordable price?

Also could you please recommend any additional maintenance that needs to be done at that mileage interval. Thanks for all your help!
 



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Rock auto is a good place to find information and part numbers. The shipping can be delayed, since they are just a drop shipper.

Unless it’s really rusty underneath, or having issues, I’d leave the starter. Unless the wiring rots on the starter these are extremely durable starters. I’d spend the money on fluids, and such before throwing parts at it that it probably doesn’t need. Don’t forget the brake fluid.
 






My alt went at 175k, power steering pump at 225k, starter at 275k, fuel pump at 285k.

I've also replaced timing chain guides and tensioners, all control arms, radiator, transmission cooler, a/c condenser, all lock actuators, egr valve, transmission, transfer case, shocks, most of front end and lotslots of other things ... get ready for the fun!
 






Rock auto for sure. Otherwise one of the discount dealer sites for genuine motorcraft parts can't go wrong with motorcraft. If you go aftermarket of course avoid the cheapest stuff you get what you pay for.

I'd replace every drop of fluid in it. Oil, trans, differentials, transfer case, brake fluid, power steering fluid, coolant. Do all the filters too. My old fuel filter had stuff in it that looked like very thick, black motor oil.

Might as well get a water pump and thermostat while you're doing all the other stuff. Of course brakes and rotors.

Maybe hubs and CV axels? If you have to do the hubs because of bad bearings, you absolutely want to do the CV axels since they will be hanging right there. That might be a good time to do all the bushings as well.
 






Rock auto is a good place to find information and part numbers. The shipping can be delayed, since they are just a drop shipper.

Unless it’s really rusty underneath, or having issues, I’d leave the starter. Unless the wiring rots on the starter these are extremely durable starters. I’d spend the money on fluids, and such before throwing parts at it that it probably doesn’t need. Don’t forget the brake fluid.
Thanks for the info!
 






Rock auto for sure. Otherwise one of the discount dealer sites for genuine motorcraft parts can't go wrong with motorcraft. If you go aftermarket of course avoid the cheapest stuff you get what you pay for.

I'd replace every drop of fluid in it. Oil, trans, differentials, transfer case, brake fluid, power steering fluid, coolant. Do all the filters too. My old fuel filter had stuff in it that looked like very thick, black motor oil.

Might as well get a water pump and thermostat while you're doing all the other stuff. Of course brakes and rotors.

Maybe hubs and CV axels? If you have to do the hubs because of bad bearings, you absolutely want to do the CV axels since they will be hanging right there. That might be a good time to do all the bushings as well.
Thanks for the input!
Rock auto for sure. Otherwise one of the discount dealer sites for genuine motorcraft parts can't go wrong with motorcraft. If you go aftermarket of course avoid the cheapest stuff you get what you pay for.

I'd replace every drop of fluid in it. Oil, trans, differentials, transfer case, brake fluid, power steering fluid, coolant. Do all the filters too. My old fuel filter had stuff in it that looked like very thick, black motor oil.

Might as well get a water pump and thermostat while you're doing all the other stuff. Of course brakes and rotors.

Maybe hubs and CV axels? If you have to do the hubs because of bad bearings, you absolutely want to do the CV axels since they will be hanging right there. That might be a good time to do all the bushings as well.
Ok thanks!
 






Rock auto is a good place to find information and part numbers. The shipping can be delayed, since they are just a drop shipper.

Unless it’s really rusty underneath, or having issues, I’d leave the starter. Unless the wiring rots on the starter these are extremely durable starters. I’d spend the money on fluids, and such before throwing parts at it that it probably doesn’t need. Don’t forget the brake fluid.
Thanks!
 






It would help to list the full specifications of your truck including the engine (4.0Lv6/4.6Lv8), transmission, 2WD/4WD/AWD, etc. Some of what you will need to do depends on these options.

I would develop a plan to carefully examine your truck and put together a list of parts. Make one list of parts that need to be replaced now and a second list of parts that can be replaced over time.

Do an examination of the suspension including the bearings, struts, ball joints, tie rod ends, and bushings. Learn how to check each component to recognize when it is gone or going. For suspension parts, try to stick to Moog Problem Solver, SKF, KYB (for struts), or Motorcraft. Motorcraft will almost always be the most expensive and not necessarily better. If those parts are too expensive, ask here about specific parts from other brands that users have found to give good service.

You could replace any of the things you mentioned on the engine but most of them I would leave until they show signs of problems. Depending on the engine you have, the most important thing to check and maintain could be the timing chain setup. Carefully look over the engine for signs of leaking fluids including the oil filter adapter, valve covers, oil pans, and timing chain cover. Check for leaking coolant around the thermostat housing, intake manifold, radiator hose connections, and heater core connection.

Check the drive train for cracks or splits in the CV axle boots and signs that the differentials are leaking where the CV axles insert.

Check the brake lines for any signs of rust or leaking brake fluid. Look especially around the flex hoses at the wheels and the flex connections where the hard lines come off of the ABS pump.

Check the power steering system for leaks or excessive rust on the metal sections of the pressure hoses. Make sure that the dust boots on the ends of the rack and pinion are not cracked or torn and don't have any PS fluid inside.

As stated by others, the best preventative maintained you can do now is to replace fluids, including the transmission fluid and filter.

It is more important to ***** your truck and find parts that need replacing then to just start replacing things by guessing. You could end up spending allot on parts that are fine and miss things that need fixing.

If you plan on keeping this truck for the long term there is no harm in buying parts that you may need to replace in the future if you can find a good price. Some parts for these trucks are getting harder to find and are not likely to get less expensive over time.

LMHmedchem
 






It would help to list the full specifications of your truck including the engine (4.0Lv6/4.6Lv8), transmission, 2WD/4WD/AWD, etc. Some of what you will need to do depends on these options.

I would develop a plan to carefully examine your truck and put together a list of parts. Make one list of parts that need to be replaced now and a second list of parts that can be replaced over time.

Do an examination of the suspension including the bearings, struts, ball joints, tie rod ends, and bushings. Learn how to check each component to recognize when it is gone or going. For suspension parts, try to stick to Moog Problem Solver, SKF, KYB (for struts), or Motorcraft. Motorcraft will almost always be the most expensive and not necessarily better. If those parts are too expensive, ask here about specific parts from other brands that users have found to give good service.

You could replace any of the things you mentioned on the engine but most of them I would leave until they show signs of problems. Depending on the engine you have, the most important thing to check and maintain could be the timing chain setup. Carefully look over the engine for signs of leaking fluids including the oil filter adapter, valve covers, oil pans, and timing chain cover. Check for leaking coolant around the thermostat housing, intake manifold, radiator hose connections, and heater core connection.

Check the drive train for cracks or splits in the CV axle boots and signs that the differentials are leaking where the CV axles insert.

Check the brake lines for any signs of rust or leaking brake fluid. Look especially around the flex hoses at the wheels and the flex connections where the hard lines come off of the ABS pump.

Check the power steering system for leaks or excessive rust on the metal sections of the pressure hoses. Make sure that the dust boots on the ends of the rack and pinion are not cracked or torn and don't have any PS fluid inside.

As stated by others, the best preventative maintained you can do now is to replace fluids, including the transmission fluid and filter.

It is more important to ***** your truck and find parts that need replacing then to just start replacing things by guessing. You could end up spending allot on parts that are fine and miss things that need fixing.

If you plan on keeping this truck for the long term there is no harm in buying parts that you may need to replace in the future if you can find a good price. Some parts for these trucks are getting harder to find and are not likely to get less expensive over time.

LMHmedchem
Ok Thanks! I have an O2 model 4.0L/2wd
 






Ok Thanks! I have an O2 model 4.0L/2wd
The first thing that you need to assess it the state of the timing system. The timing system on the 4.0L SOCH engine can break down over time and then fail with no warning more or less destroying the engine. At 260,000+ you really need to check on this before putting anything else into it. The main problem is that the engine needs to be removed to replace the rear chain, guides, tensioners, etc.


I have seen some posts here and there like this one,

Replace all 4.0L timing chain & guides without removing engine or special tools

describing ways it might be possible to change out the rear parts without removing the engine but I don't know if any of these have been successful or not. I suppose the poster of the thread was able to do it but I don't know if others have been able to do the same. The fact that the truck is 2WD means that you have more access without the front differential. I don't know if that would help with the timing components or not. It would help make a number of other repair jobs easier.

I would remove the front timing cover and inspect the setup there and also remove the oil pickup tube to look for broken pieces of the timing guides. You may be able to at least inspect the rear setup to see what shape it's in. If the timing components need to be replaced you need to decide if you are up for pulling the engine or paying to have it done.

At least I think you need to know what shape those parts are in.

LMHmedchem
 






The first thing that you need to assess it the state of the timing system. The timing system on the 4.0L SOCH engine can break down over time and then fail with no warning more or less destroying the engine. At 260,000+ you really need to check on this before putting anything else into it. The main problem is that the engine needs to be removed to replace the rear chain, guides, tensioners, etc.


I have seen some posts here and there like this one,

Replace all 4.0L timing chain & guides without removing engine or special tools

describing ways it might be possible to change out the rear parts without removing the engine but I don't know if any of these have been successful or not. I suppose the poster of the thread was able to do it but I don't know if others have been able to do the same. The fact that the truck is 2WD means that you have more access without the front differential. I don't know if that would help with the timing components or not. It would help make a number of other repair jobs easier.

I would remove the front timing cover and inspect the setup there and also remove the oil pickup tube to look for broken pieces of the timing guides. You may be able to at least inspect the rear setup to see what shape it's in. If the timing components need to be replaced you need to decide if you are up for pulling the engine or paying to have it done.

At least I think you need to know what shape those parts are in.

LMHmedchem
Ok thanks. I do have a mechanic who could do the work but that is a very labor intensive job from the sounds of it.
 






Ok thanks. I do have a mechanic who could do the work but that is a very labor intensive job from the sounds of it.
The main thing is for you to assess the condition of these parts so you can make informed decisions going forward.

LMHmedchem
 






The main thing is for you to assess the condition of these parts so you can make informed decisions going forward.

LMHmedchem
That makes perfect sense. Thanks for the advice! Much appreciated
 












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