Replacing A/C condenser and thinking about installing aux trans cooler... but

[damasodeljr]

Since my last trip was awesome, been thinking of doing it more often, now my companion enjoyed it too except for the fact that the X does not have a working A/C system, to keep her happy i went ahead and bought a full A/C kit, which includes the compressor, condenser, dryer and some other random pieces, like o rings, oil and solvent flush, payed $250 for everything and i think its a really nice deal with lifetime warranty. I will also send out my a/c lines to get new rubber.

Now the a/c isnt the problem, but i was wondering since im replacing the condenser, it would be the right time to do an aux trans cooler, i already have the factory one along with a remote spin on filter inline. Im looking at the Hayden ones, but i dont know what type of set up would be best,

-should i replace my factory one with a hayden 15x10"? it would attach directly to my condenser behind the hood latch support,
-or do i put it inline with the factory? in the same spot as above, in between the stock and condenser
-what about another one about the same size as the stock and mounted inline next to it

I do not have a trans temp gauge, is there such a thing as over kill trans cooling?

Any input or ideas are welcome, will start install this Saturday

 

[natenkiki2004]

Being that you're down south, I'd suggest going with 2 coolers if you feel that you can fit them. I think if I were to do it, I'd get 2 smaller ones (factory size) and run them with a T fitting on each side. What I mean is, split the line coming from the radiator tank cooler and have one line going to each cooler. Then on the output of each cooler, join those lines back together with a T fitting and send it to the trans pan.

Of course, doing a single large cooler is likely easier and has less failure points and will probably perform just as well as 2 smaller coolers. Replacing the factory cooler with an oversize one and adding a in-line filter are 2 things that will keep the trans living for a long time. Change the fluid every 40,000 miles or so (more frequent if you short-trip or offroad a lot). Other things that help are using 4x4 Low when offroading, especially with any gearing less than 3.73.

Another bonus of going the single-cooler route is that you will likely have fresh air still getting to the condenser which will make for cooler AC. If you pack a bunch of trans coolers in front and are going slow offroading, the condenser won't be doing that great of a job.

 

[damasodeljr]

Thanks Nate, thats what im leaning towards, a single Hayden 15x10" cooler, im thinking also in the near future adding a trans temp gauge, will probably find some sort of T and add it to the hot line out of the trans, dont think i want to remove and tap the oil pan for that

 

[natenkiki2004]

There is a pressure port on the driver's side that is 1/4" NPT. Other people have put a temp gauge there. I tried and the probe I had was too long and got crushed inside. I haven't tried finding another sensor again. If you wanted an easy spot, you could just put a T in the upper radiator tank line and read off of that. It will be good enough and give you an idea whether or not you need to take a break.

 

[damasodeljr]

a port on the trans itself? i dont think i have ever looked

 

[natenkiki2004]

Yeah, it's a diagnostic pressure port for testing. Pressurized ATF is on the other side so it's the closest you'll get to actual internal trans temperatures.

 

[damasodeljr]

I installed the bigger cooler and remote filter on my X a bit ago, and yes the lines flow thru the radiator, you can see then on the drivers side of the radiator, if i remember correctly this is how i set mine up,

from the cooler line the transmission out line, well call this "hot" fluid, runs first to the radiator, then out of the radiator to the cooler, then out the cooler and back to the transmission, this is the "cool" line.

I installed my remote oil filter by the front passenger side bumper, i installed the out line from the radiator into the IN line of the filter, (mine didnt say is or out, but the in line is the outer one on the filter, the out line is the center) the out of the filter into my new cooler and then out the cooler into the return trans line.

hope that helps

 

[Rhett]

the 15 x 10 Hayden cooler is pretty big. Are you worried that it would cut down radiator and a/c air flow?

Consider this one by B & M:
http://www.jegs.com/i/B-M/130/70264/10002/-1

It is about the same height and length as the OEM cooler but it is thicker, and I'd bet it'll cool better. You could even mount an 8" pusher fan on it if you really need some major league cooling.

 

[damasodeljr]

I wasnt worried about that when i first installed it, but now it seems like it might be cutting down on air flow a bit.

Current outside temps are hitting close to 100F and will probably get a bit hotter in the next month or so, driving around with the A/C on it works perfect, needle on the temp gauge stays at the "N" and my small thermometer on the vent will read 40F, but if i hit stop and go traffic or idle for a bit the temp will rise to the "A" or "L", still in the normal, but the a/c stops working, compressor just cycles constantly, and inside vent temp hits 100F. I know that when the vehicle is stopped there isnt much airflow thru the radiator and condenser but hoped that the fan clutch will keep the a/c going. As soon as i start moving again engine temp drops to "N" and after a few seconds the a/c works like normal again.

Pretty much the whole engine cooling system is new, coolant is full and even added a bottle of Red Line water wetter, condenser is also new.

Do i really just went overkill with the tranny cooler?

 

[damasodeljr]

this is what it looks like now

 

[Rhett]

Is your fan clutch working?
Do you have the fan shroud on there?

 

[iLoveMyExploder]

i am planning on doing the remote filter mod and adding on a 2nd trans cooler (coming off the parts truck). i could use some advise, if you guys who have done these mods already, can help me out... i was also thinking about maybe adding on an electric fan with the coolers like what yall were talking about. how would i have to wire that up so it only runs while the engine is running? where would be the best place to install the filter? ... and would any ol' rubber hose be good enough to carry the fluid, or do i need to get a special kind of hose... also, should i just turn this comment into a whole new thread? maybe others have these same questions...

 

[damasodeljr]

Is your fan clutch working?
Do you have the fan shroud on there?

Yes new fan clutch was installed when I did the water pump earlier this year along with new fan, stock shroud is still there

 

[Rhett]

Yes new fan clutch was installed when I did the water pump earlier this year along with new fan, stock shroud is still there

Are sure the fan clutch is working properly? The behavior you describe, sounds like what happens when the fan clutch is bad, and/or lots of air in the system or a bad sender.

 

[damasodeljr]

I am almost 100% positive that the system is bleed properly and the sending unit works just fine. Will check my fan clutch, it's still under warranty so that's good.

As far as checking the fan, the way I remember to check it would be to get the truck up to running temp, then idle for a bit at 1500 rpm and quickly shut it off, if the fan stops with the engine it is good, if it stays free spinning is crap, is this still the best method?

 

[Rhett]

The way I have always done it, is engine off, and spin the fan by hand. There should be some resistance. If it spins more than 1 time around (or a little more at most) then it's bad. On the other hand if it doesn't spin at all, or very little, then it is also bad.

I haven't checked mine in a while, and I'd probably have double-check the procedure in my Haynes manual or a thread here at EF to be sure.