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Replacing ball joints.




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one piece upper on drivers two piece upper on pass, DO NOT BUY THE ONE PIECE UPPER FOR THE PASS SIDE.... people always buy the one piece for the passenger side and then freak out when they need alignment shims and $350 at the alignment shop, just stick with the two piece upper for pass side and be done with it!!
 






This may not be applicable in your case, but in the past on a variety of vehicles, I've had good luck with just replacing ball joint boots instead of the entire joint assuming you catch it early (see a cracked/decaying boot, or a freshly ripped one). The joints themselves don't seem to wear out, but the contamination from boot failure ruins them.

Boot replacement is easy and doesn't require removing the joint, typically factory replacement boots are just a few dollars.
 






I got the truck 7 months ago and the boots upper and lower were ripped then.The previous owner did no maintenance on it other than changing the oil, new tires and a front brake job for 11,000 miles. All kinds of grit was covering them.
 






This may not be applicable in your case, but in the past on a variety of vehicles, I've had good luck with just replacing ball joint boots instead of the entire joint assuming you catch it early (see a cracked/decaying boot, or a freshly ripped one). The joints themselves don't seem to wear out, but the contamination from boot failure ruins them.

Boot replacement is easy and doesn't require removing the joint, typically factory replacement boots are just a few dollars.

^ Good point, but where do you find dust boots that seal properly? Polyurethane replacements such as Prothane, Energy Suspension, and Daystar are more or less covers that fit over the ball joint flange, but don't completely seal out contaminants, especially when submerged in water.

Aftermarket Universal Dust Boots | Polyurethane Replacement Dust Cover
 












one piece upper on drivers two piece upper on pass, DO NOT BUY THE ONE PIECE UPPER FOR THE PASS SIDE.... people always buy the one piece for the passenger side and then freak out when they need alignment shims and $350 at the alignment shop, just stick with the two piece upper for pass side and be done with it!!

Yep. I totally agree.
 






^ Good point, but where do you find dust boots that seal properly? Polyurethane replacements such as Prothane, Energy Suspension, and Daystar are more or less covers that fit over the ball joint flange, but don't completely seal out contaminants, especially when submerged in water.

Aftermarket Universal Dust Boots | Polyurethane Replacement Dust Cover

If the ball joint boots have been torn long enough for the grease to wash out and for dirt/grit to get in the ball joints are no longer any good and should just be replaced rather than screwing around with replacement boots. JMO.
 






If my ST was equipped, I would have preferred the ease and caster adjustment of the two-piece UCA design providing the bushings are in good shape. Regarding alignment, it's easy to mark the exact location on the the outer arm to replace, but isn't alignment STILL required for the one-piece driver side once it's removed with or without camber kits?
 






Alignment is up to the installer. You can easily mark the upper control arm on the drivers side before you take the old one out so you can be sure to put the new one in the exact same spot. So you can replace all 4 balljoints and keep your alignment. Same thing with tie rods, as long as you assemble the new tie rods to the exact same length as the old ones, alignment is retained.
Now I take this a step further, I do my own toe adjustments in house and also level the front of these trucks to bring camber back into spec using the torsion bar adjuster bolts.
Wheel alignment can be checked with a piece of string and 4 jackstands and a magnetic angle gauge.
I can adjust toe to - 1/16" per side and get camber to within 0.5 degree negative at ride height then I am happy and no alignment shop is needed.

All 4 tires should be at proper pressure before checking alignment and steering wheel can be centered now as well. I also like to bounce the truck several times and maybe even drive it a little before and after checking alignment just to be sure its perfect. My own trucks on larger tires get set to 0" toe and 0 camber, I like these settings because larger tires seem to exaggerate the stock settings........
 












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