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How to: Replacing clutch pedal assembly


EvilTheCat

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'97 Explorer
My Explorer has given me issues shifting into first and second since I've owned it (little over a year). The clutch was always in question because the pedal would go all the way to the floor. I had to cut my floormat right after installing them because I couldn't get it into gear. I pulled the little rubber stopper off for even more space, but this didn't really help. The pedal would just bottom out. I then tried bleeding the clutch which helped some, but never fixed it completely. I decided one day to take a good look under the dash to see if there was something else I could do. That's when I found the crack. I couldn't find much information about replacing this, so while I was working on it I took some pictures.

DSCF2685_zpsb68fff6d.jpg

DSCF2687_zps7c62453d.jpg

Someone on this forum recommended removing the knee plate thing so I did...

DSCF2688_zps6b3f298f.jpg

But I didn't find it to be helpful except maybe to get more light. I wouldn't waste the time if I were to do it again.

DSCF2689_zpsac8fa1f0.jpg

The seat however must come out unless you like contorting your body under the dash.

DSCF2690_zps40d4ff5a.jpg

DSCF2691_zpse3f7b81a.jpg

Disconnect the electrical connectors from the brake and clutch.

DSCF2692_zps58806190.jpg

See that little plastic piece that holds the clutch master cylinder on the pedal? Be prepared to break it into little pieces unless you have some kind special tool perhaps. Order one from Autozone or your preferred parts store before starting this project, because they'll need to order it. My local Ford dealer just happened to have it in stock (the second time I went back that is).
Clutch Pedal Bushing
Autozone part number: 74014
Ford part number: 6C3Z-7A581-A

DSCF2695_zpsc8f3db87.jpg

Pull the yellow pin on the brake pedal and remove the brake light sensor and bushings. Try to keep track of how they go on because I didn't and had to look back at the photos I'd taken to figure it out.

DSCF2697_zps9b52e75d.jpg

Next remove the sensor that's attatched to the clutch master cylinder. Just squeeze the little tabs together in the middle of the yellow piece and slide it up and out. Then the sensor should pop right off. It may require a little force. Now use a pair of channel locks or pliers to turn the clutch master cylinder 45 degrees and it will line it up with the square hole to free it from the assembly.

Sorry no pictures for this part, but you should be able to figure it out.
Remove the 4 nuts on the lower part. Doing this will unbolt the brake booster from the firewall, but it'll support itself.

Remove the 2 bolts from the top of the assembly. The entire assembly will now be loose, but you won't be able to get it out yet.

DSCF2699_zpscef73a66.jpg

This is where I disconnected the brake master cylinder lines (I forgot to bleed the brakes afterward, but found them to be just as responsive as before. I may have not put any air in the lines unhooking it here).

DSCF2700_zps315aaaa9.jpg

Pull the brake booster and master cylinder assembly forward enough to clear the arm that connects it to the pedal (no need to unplug anything other than the 2 lines shown above for this).

Push the clutch master cylinder through the square hole, wiggle the pedal assembly a bit and it'll come right out.

Do the opposite to put it back together.

DSCF2701_zps7ba0bbff.jpg

Here's the crack in my old one. If you look close you can see it go way back.

DSCF2702_zps5eba5094.jpg

A side by side comparison. The new assembly came from Amazon and cost me $102.80. The part number is 6L5z2455bb. It's listed for a Ranger 2006 - 2011, but Ford verified that this is the correct part number for my '97 Explorer. If you look close you can see the new one has been reinforced in those trouble areas.

DSCF2704_zpsb278874a.jpg

Here's what i did to temporarily fix my clutch pedal bushing that I busted into eight pieces. It held til I was about six block from the Ford dealer to pick up the replacement. Who need a clutch pedal anyway? I managed to get all the way there without having to stop or shift much. I go inside and the ass-hat that ordered it and made me wait an entire day got me the wrong part. Fortunately they did have the correct part on hand. I snapped it on in their parking lot and it's been shifting great ever since. The whole project ended up being a lot easier than I though it would be.
 


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poker4me007

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Nice Job

Thanks for all the info I have the same problem with my 97 explorer... the pics and links will help me a lot ...thanks again... Pete
 




RangerX

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I need to do this on my Ranger. My bracket's not cracked, but the hole on the clutch side is really enlarged, and the pedals flop around. :rolleyes:
One thing I noticed is the clutch cylinder pushrod is very beefy compared to the earlier years. Still plastic, but much thicker.
 




daddydog455

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03 ranger
03 ranger. how do u get clutch master cyl. to lock into place when there are no bolts like the earlier modules,
 








RangerX

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This is where I disconnected the brake master cylinder lines (I forgot to bleed the brakes afterward, but found them to be just as responsive as before. I may have not put any air in the lines unhooking it here).
Wondering why did you undo the brake lines? Did that allow the booster to move further out?
 




EvilTheCat

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Wondering why did you undo the brake lines? Did that allow the booster to move further out?
That is exactly the reason. Sorry I didn't elaborate why. If I remember correctly you need to remove lines some where in order to get the master cylinder and booster out far enough to get the assembly out. And that seems to be the simplest place.
 




EvilTheCat

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03 ranger. how do u get clutch master cyl. to lock into place when there are no bolts like the earlier modules,
I didn't have any bolts for my clutch master cylinder either. You just put it through the square hole and turn it 45 degrees. Sorry I didn't get any photos of that part.
 




CheeseBar

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What tool did you use to get the two upper bolts off the plate? It's tight as hell up there.
 




EvilTheCat

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What tool did you use to get the two upper bolts off the plate? It's tight as hell up there.
I don't recall exactly. It's been a while since I replaced it. It was either a socket, perhaps with extension, or a combination wrench turning it little by little. I didn't use anything special. Only thing I remember was that it was a PITA. Good luck.
 




AwwPhooey

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Thanks Evil

EvilTheCat, I know you posted this awhile ago, but just wanted to say thanks. Pedal broke on my sons '97 Ranger, and I was NOT looking forward to doing this, but your play by play made it doable (though it was a TOTAL PITA and took me my entire Saturday). My back and neck are sore as heII, but I did it. Couldn't have done it without your post. Thanks again!
 




lonerdog

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new port richey. fl, Belton S.C.
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what years explorer clutch-brake
bracket will. interchange with my. 1997 sport as my clutch bracket broke
 




mikeonthemic10

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Is it possible I can use really strong epoxy to fix mine? i have a similar crack
 




KJMClark

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Some other notes, since I'm in the middle of doing this:
  1. You can get to the threaded end of the top two bolts to spray some PB Blaster or something on them! Just forward of your windshield, before your actual hood starts, there's a 6" or so thick section of metal running from side to side. It has lots of vent holes punched in it. On my 96 Ranger, that's where the wiper fluid jets are mounted. For the one on the driver's side, which is directly over those bolts, if you look hard down in there, closer to the driver's side fender, you'll see two bolt ends sticking up, about 4" apart. Not easy to see, but those are the thread ends of those top two bolts.
  2. Taking off the kick plate gives you a little access to one of those two bolts. (Unfortunately, the easier of the two.) I had two extra tools in my box that really helped. One is a 3/8" universal joint adapter. That's what helped with this bolt. Having the kick plate off also helps with three of the brake master cylinder bolts. The universal joint thing allowed me to get the extra bit of angle I needed to line up with the bolt.
  3. The other tool that really helped is one of those ratcheting box end wrenches. Like this one: http://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-1...-Ratcheting-Box-End-Wrench-WRN77109/207112547. All six bolts are 13mm, BTW. That was the tool that let me get the harder of those two top bolts. I didn't take the seat out, so yeah, I was twisted like a pretzel. Ow.
  4. Instead of disconnecting some brake lines, I took of the ABS cylinder's bracket. I already had my fender shield off, and one of the two bolts for that is the bolt on bottom of the ABS controller's bracket. There are two other bolts holding it to the sidewall. I had to take the battery out to slide everything forward, but that way I didn't have to disconnect any of the brake lines.
 




Joey 2 times

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Will that same pedal assembly work for a 2002 explorer sport?
 




Brandonkbrown120

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I know this post is years old but is there any way at all you could inbox me the photos from this guide I have no way of getting them from this post due to dificulties with the site they're posted on. I have to completely replace the pedal assembly in my Mazda b2500 (ranger)
 




poker4me007

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Hope someone can help you with the pic's, I don't know how to retrieve them...I did this same replacement 4 year's ago..It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be....I took my front seat out and take the lower panels off under the steering wheel, makes the job easier... It looks harder than it really is...it's just kinda tuff because there's not much room under there...If you work on cars at all you shouldn't have any problem...Took the seat out so that I have more room to move around I'm a big guy...

Sucks the pics don't show up, evilthecat did a great write up on it...
 




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