Replacing Driver Side Seatbelt, Need Help.

[MatthewAlan8]

A couple of months ago my seatbelt began having trouble clicking in. After a while it completely stopped. I now have to stretch my belt across the center console and click it into the passenger seat.

Does anybody know how I would go about changing the female part? I was looking at it, and the way it is looking, I might have to take the whole seat out or something. I don't need to change the belt, just the female part. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I own a 1997 Explorer. Thanks!

 

[MatthewAlan8]

Bump

 

[Dan Whitaker]

It's pretty easy. Take the four bolts out that hold the seat in and the two Torx bolts. One holds the brace piece to the transmission tunnel and the other bolts the latch to the seat frame.

It should only take 1/2 hour total to change. A new one from Ford is around $60

 

[MatthewAlan8]

Thank you for the help. I will look into getting another one soon. Is there a website to go to for parts? Should I go to a dealer? Or would a junk yard be better?

 

[daffy]

Personally, I would go new, they're not a very high dollar item, and it IS a part that could save your life.

www.fastpartsnetwork.com is a site sponsor, and has great prices on OEM parts.

Also, if you have any questions, just email Torrie, and he'll have the answer for you.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

Definitely buy a new one. I paid $60 for mine from a dealer and thought it was well worth my life.

 

[parad1mg]

4 bolts for the seatbelt retractor assembly and two T50 torx bolts, one at the top height adjuster and one on the floor. Definitely get a new one.

mine did not retract at all when i first got it so i took it apart, opened the retractor assembly then rewound the spring and re-installed the belt. I also shaved flat the rubber roller that somehow swelled up on the sides thus preventing a smooth retraction. So basically my drivers side seatbelt works like new again it even locks with sudden braking.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

4 bolts for the seatbelt retractor assembly and two T50 torx bolts, one at the top height adjuster and one on the floor. Definitely get a new one.

mine did not retract at all when i first got it so i took it apart, opened the retractor assembly then rewound the spring and re-installed the belt. I also shaved flat the rubber roller that somehow swelled up on the sides thus preventing a smooth retraction. So basically my drivers side seatbelt works like new again it even locks with sudden braking.

He's not talking about the retractor. He's talking about the latch mounted to the drivers seat.

 

[parad1mg]

He's not talking about the retractor. He's talking about the latch mounted to the drivers seat.

whoops.. my bad.. didn't read the first post...

 

[TheVarmit]

4 bolts for the seatbelt retractor assembly and two T50 torx bolts, one at the top height adjuster and one on the floor. Definitely get a new one.

mine did not retract at all when i first got it so i took it apart, opened the retractor assembly then rewound the spring and re-installed the belt. I also shaved flat the rubber roller that somehow swelled up on the sides thus preventing a smooth retraction. So basically my drivers side seatbelt works like new again it even locks with sudden braking.

parad1mg...are you still here on these forums? My drivers side seatbelt won't retract either, how much of a PITA was it to rewind the spring and get it back together?

 

[rollinstone]

Same thing...my dealer wants $81 for the latching portion.

Doesn't look like I have to remove the seat to get at the bolts, etc...except there's an electrical line I'll have to deal with...prolly the alarm hookup...any problems disconnecting that...simple connector or more elaborate wiring?

 

[bobflood]

Do a search. There are several threads on this site that provide all of the details you need to replace the seat belt female/latch end w/o removing the seat. You will need a big torex driver to remove bolt that holds it to the floor. I did it several months ago in about 20 minutes. I got my latch for about 5 bucks at pull-a-part; not a safety issue IMO as it's the low tech part of the system. Don't worry about matching color, as you can reuse the colored plastic sleeve on your broken one.

 

[rollinstone]

Same thing...my dealer wants $81 for the latching portion.

Doesn't look like I have to remove the seat to get at the bolts, etc...except there's an electrical line I'll have to deal with...prolly the alarm hookup...any problems disconnecting that...simple connector or more elaborate wiring?

Bought a perfecting usable latch from local wrecking yard for $20, and a T-47 Torx head for $5. Removed 3 of the 4 seat bolts from the rails and loosened the 4th bolt. That way I pivoted the seat out of the way to get at the two torx bolts, which made realigning the seat bolt holes easier.

The hardest part: removing the vinyl trim cap covering the floorboard torx bolt. I made it hard because I didn't realize it was sort of screwed into the trim piece...not actually threaded. It went back in easier than taking it off.

Dealer wanted $85 for new latch, plus about $115 in labor...not to mention keeping my car for the better part of a day. Not only did I save money, but got to spend an hour with the guys at the wrecking yard! How cool is that!

Oh, and the electrical wire...a simple connector.

 

[Spdrcer34]

For the plastic cap that covers the hole on the seatbelt track......

Take a flat head screwdriver, jam it into the side of the cap, inbetween the cap and plastic housing....use the Torx bit to turn the cap with one hand, while jamming the screwdriver in between the 2 with the other hand.

As you turn the cap, the screw driver will bind up against the side of the cap, and walk right out of the hole....

It takes about 20 seconds to get everything set-up just right, and get the cap off.

Ryan

 

[buddy72]

One of the things I first noticed that irked me when I got my Ex a couple months ago is that the receptacle was so far down it made it hard to latch easily. While replacing the latch, it's a good time to add an extension like I did.

I just cut a piece of 1/4" aluminum to about 2" wide and 4" long. Drilled a couple bolt holes. The end that you bolt to the seat, you grind down one side to match the metal lip that keeps it straight. Then get another bolt to fasten the latch to your extension.

This makes it very easy to fasten the seat belt now.

 

[rollinstone]

For the plastic cap that covers the hole on the seatbelt track......

Take a flat head screwdriver, jam it into the side of the cap, inbetween the cap and plastic housing....use the Torx bit to turn the cap with one hand, while jamming the screwdriver in between the 2 with the other hand.

As you turn the cap, the screw driver will bind up against the side of the cap, and walk right out of the hole....

It takes about 20 seconds to get everything set-up just right, and get the cap off.

Ryan

Dude! Now you tell me! *files this away for next time*

 

[lounge lizard]

I took my seat out and moved the whole seat belt latch to a hole in the seat to get it a little more forward so it is easier to plug it in.

this is the stock location

after moving the latch

plus my handles for the back broke for adjusting the upright position. so I fixed that too.

the handle broke off.

so I made my own and welded in