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Replacing freeze plugs

I just did the same one. Took me about an hour. Hopefully it will buy me time till I swap out a new engine. any one know a good place in las vegas NV to get one?
 



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I always paint the back side and edges with gasket sealer and I will say I have never replaced a plug again doing it this way.

Would perma tex High tack gasket sealant be alright to use for this sh**y job?? what has everyone here used when they did theirs?? the more opinions the better...thanks ahead,
should note, 93 exploder xlt 4.o ohv pushrod auto 4x4 with air, 4 door......old one is out, and looking to get the new ones in...no, not using the crappy rubber expansion ones with a bolt through them....
thanks ahead,
IB47
 






Would perma tex High tack gasket sealant be alright to use for this sh**y job?? what has everyone here used when they did theirs?? the more opinions the better...thanks ahead,
should note, 93 exploder xlt 4.o ohv pushrod auto 4x4 with air, 4 door......old one is out, and looking to get the new ones in...no, not using the crappy rubber expansion ones with a bolt through them....
thanks ahead,
IB47

If you asking about that black snot looking stuff (not rtv) sticky stuff then yes, that will work too.

~Mark
 






If you asking about that black snot looking stuff (not rtv) sticky stuff then yes, that will work too.

~Mark

Hey Mark! Thank you for getting back to me about that gasket sealant. I finally got the freeze plug back in after having to make my own freeze plug install tool, now I have a question regarding refilling the beast with anti freeze / coolant . IAs I understand it, the thermostat does not open and allow coolant into the engine block until the engine reaches warmup temps. Given that I have lost most of the coolant in the block due to the freeze plug re and re, is there a way that I can fill the block as much as possible, so that it is not starting up with such a low amount of coolant in the actual engine? Am I wrong to think that i could due some damage to the engine while waiting for the thermostat to pop open since the engine has such a low amount of coolant in it?? Thanks ahead, ANYONE!!! Ansty to fire the beast back up and see if I won or not.!!!
IB47
 






Can anyone point me to a thread that explains it even???
Much thanks,
Daz
 






If I pulled the thermostat could I fill the block from there???
IB47
 






As long as you have filled the radiator prior to startup, that's about all you can do, unless you want to keep topping it off as the engine runs.

You could "fill" the block some through the thermostat hole, if you wanted to pull the 'stat and go that far, but you'd only get a little bit in there, but hey, if that gives you peace of mind, go ahead, it certainly won't hurt. Might put in a new thermostat and gasket while you're at it.

Even if the block is completely drained, when you fill the radiator, some of that goes into the block. You can get a whole gallon of coolant/water in there initially. Once you start the engine, the water pump instantly gets coolant circulating, even without the thermostat open to let it circulate through everything.

You could technically run an engine with NO coolant in it up to operating temp, then shut it down before it starts to heat up/overheat. The real damage is done when things go beyond operating temp. Of course, having water/coolant in there helps transfer heat from the pistons and walls to the rest of the block, so it's not really a good idea to run it dry. But as far as a drain and refill, there's no need to do anything more than the regular fill/air purge procedure.

To refill, just fill the radiator once you're sure everything is sealed up, then put the radiator cap on, but only to the first click (loose), not tight. This lets air escape. Start the engine, and let it idle until the temp gauge needle gets to the middle of the gauge, and goes a little to the right, then falls back to the left. This means the thermostat has opened, and coolant is circulating throughout the whole system. After a few seconds, shut it down, let it cool a few hours. Come back once it's cold and refill the radiator again, plus top off the overflow reservoir. Start it again, with the radiator cap still on just the first click, let it get up to operating temp, make sure the thermostat opens, let it run for a few more seconds, shut it down, let it cool. This time, top off the radiator, top off the overflow reservior, put the radiator cap on tight and you should be done.

Of course, it's always good to keep an eye on it and check the level of the overflow reservoir to see if it's going down, which would mean there's a leak in the system somewhere.
 






Thank you man!!! That is exactly what I was looking for! The quote in your signature is awesome!
Back to it.
IB47
 






On my '94 Mazda Navajo the freeze plug on the rear of the engine (facing toward firewall -passenger side) sprang a pinhole leak. Fortunately I saw on one of the threads in here that someone replaced it by removing the front passenger side wheel and splash/mud guard in wheel well.

Well after several failed attempts to find the right tool to 'flip' the plug so I could grab onto it, it suddenly occurred to me that I could drill a small hole through the firewall at the same level as the plug and use a long screw driver or punch to 'flip' the plug. Was so easy to do the replacement from that point that I wondered why anyone would go through the trouble of removing the engine. I simply used a pair of long handled channel locks to grab onto the plug from the wheel well area after that.

I could have easily put in a steel plug, using the hole through the firewall to knock it into place, but was unable to locate the right size plug (for some reason the usual auto part stores as well as Dorman tech support insisted that there was only a one size for my vehicle - yet the Dorman online catalog lists at least 2 different sizes (head 1.38", block 2.1") - go figure.

So I went with a rubber replacement and 3 months and several hundred miles later, the plug is still doing its job! This includes driving into the San Gabriel mountains 5 days a week to build a home.

By the way, doing the rear facing plug on the driver side was even easier since I only had to drill the hole in the firewall, 'flip' the plug and retrieve it by leaning over the engine from the driver side and reaching into the back of it with channel locks.

To plug up the holes in the firewall and keep fumes out I took some 1/16 thick metal plate with some gasket sealer around edges and 4 self tapping screws. Engine is happy (with 179k miles on it) and I'm happy! I'm actually looking forward to replacing the rest the plugs.

-Paul
 






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