Replacing keypad B-Pillar with cheap amazon one, but using OEM keypad.

[MatthewD207]

During a recent snow storm, I accidentally snapped off the top half of my B-pillar while removing snow. The factory one is $180-200 and $500 installed at dealership but there are knockoffs on Amazon for $40. The only issue is that a lot of them have bad reviews of the keypad failing after a few months. I didnt really care about it because i never lock my car, nevermind use the keypad. Once the knockoff one showed up, i started to wonder if i could just remove the OEM keypad, and install it into the knock off trim. It also seems like this would be less work than to remove the interior panels of the door trim.

Broken (but still working keypad)

Knock off $40 keypad pillar

Successful removal of knock off keypad from amazon trim. Came apart very easy

Removed factory keypad from factory pillar. Was much more difficult to get apart, scratched paint but did not have remove inner door panel (Torx T7 bit required). Make sure white piece is coming out with circuit board

Factory keypad installed on knock off trim

Very bright, scratches cannot be seen once installed

Definitely fitment issues on $40 amazon trim. I don't really care as this thing is a daily beater getting tore up by moving three kids around and already has more ding and scratches that are way more of an eye sore.
All in all, i saved ~$150. Worth it? To me, yes.

 

[Odrapnew]

Nice job. I'm all for saving a few bucks.
I'm more impressed that your first post is more of a 'how-to' vs the usual "my car is a piece of junk."

 

[J_C]

Welcome to the forum!

Good job!

Had you been waxing that pillar? Ice should stick less to it if waxed up, though as I'm sure you already know, you have to be really gentle with that piano black as it scratches if you even look at it wrong, lol.

 

[MatthewD207]

haha, I have never heard of anyone waxing their trim in the winter time. It was slightly protruding when we got 8" of heavy wet snow and I yanked it off with my snow broom.

 

[J_C]

^ Also helps to wax the wiper arms, and where the door weatherstripping meets the painted metal, and silicone spray the weatherstripping.

 

[mmorey79]

Wish this had been an option back when I got tired of looking at the cracked trim (someone appeared to have opened the door into something and broke the trim). I bought a non-keypad knockoff trim and just ditched the keypad, which if you're really cheap is probably still the cheapest option of all though. I'd bet the aftermarket has the same issue as the Ford which is that the keypad isn't well sealed and shorts out, just worse than the Ford unit.

 

[J_C]

^ Is there any way to waterproof it with silicone, epoxy, or a conformal coating, so it doesn't short out? I never really thought about it, is the keypad bubble membrane switches or capacitive or resistive touch based? Housing for it or just plastic film laminations in a frame? I couldn't tell from the pics.

 

[peterk9]

^ Is there any way to waterproof it with silicone, epoxy, or a conformal coating, so it doesn't short out? I never really thought about it, is the keypad bubble membrane switches or capacitive or resistive touch based? Housing for it or just plastic film laminations in a frame? I couldn't tell from the pics.

I've had the Securicode pad on several of my last vehicles and have never had an issue with water intrusion. The only time as far as I can recall that it shorted out is when the pad came off while driving. I don't recall reading any posts here about it shorting out due to water getting into it.

Peter

 

[mmorey79]

^ Is there any way to waterproof it with silicone, epoxy, or a conformal coating, so it doesn't short out? I never really thought about it, is the keypad bubble membrane switches or capacitive or resistive touch based? Housing for it or just plastic film laminations in a frame? I couldn't tell from the pics.

I don't know for sure what the failure mode is, it seemed to mainly just be a set of LEDs and reistive touch pad switches from what I remember when I briefly looked at mine before tossing. It still worked but there were signs of moisture in it. The design is relatively robust, but I've definitely seen a number of reports in facebook groups at least of people who suddenly had their power liftgate not work because something shorted in the keypad and popped the fuse that is shared with the liftgate, also a lot of people have had issues with the keys shorting enough to make the car think someone is pushing buttons so the light keeps coming on and running down the battery. I would guess making sure the trim piece is properly attached and maybe adding a bead of silicone around the top and sides and maybe where the screws go could help, I would leave some open at the bottom so it can drain out though regardless.

 

[MatthewD207]

^ Is there any way to waterproof it with silicone, epoxy, or a conformal coating, so it doesn't short out? I never really thought about it, is the keypad bubble membrane switches or capacitive or resistive touch based? Housing for it or just plastic film laminations in a frame? I couldn't tell from the pics.

If I had more time I would have done a waterproofing step.
My wife's old Jetta had a coil pack that would heat up and develop tiny cracks. Eventually they begin to misfire. I just coated the whole thing with two part loc-tite epoxy and it last a couple of years before I sold it.

I would probably just do that if it started acting wonky